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The available Product Data Sheets were very scaled down and neither grade had a listed Viscosity Index and other data points. I was surprised I couldn't find a VOA and UOA on bobistheoilguy.
Lot of trash talk and entrail-reading on this BITOG thread, especially about the possibilities of it being a jumped-up API Group III oil and a trial balloon to test consumer acceptance of boutique pricing for Walmart synthetics:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4341497/Mobil_1_Annual_Protection

It's early days yet--a Google search for {+"Mobil 1" +"Annual Protection" + UOA} turned up just 13 results, only some of which were relevant, the oldest relevant link (dated last February 27) being the BITOG thread linked above.

Little OT, but do you have a link listing the post-2002 updates to the 1MZ? Wondering because my newest one is in an '02 Sienna.
The PCV system was redesigned to keep vapors trapped in the crankcase from oxidizing the oil and causing sludge (a problem that was aggravated by trips too short to allow the engine to warm up fully). Also, in 2002, Toyota made a production change to the oil return passages to prevent oil from pooling in the cylinder head and "cooking" into sludge. Some scuttlebutt also suggests the 1MZ-FE was early on biased to run rich for longevity (avoiding pinging), but Toyota redesigned the knock sensor for (at least some) of the fifth-generation Camrys and this may have allowed the engines to be tuned to run closer to lean.

This is the best discussion I have found of the various issues:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-1st-to-4th-gen-1990-2006/194378-1997-2001-es300-engine-sludge-problem.html

Toyota was also sued in a class action over 1MZ-FE sludge, and settled. The settlement website is long gone from the live Web but is available through the Web Archive.

https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20070114130728/http://www.oilgelsettlement.com:80/settlement.pdf

https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20070126032221/http://oilgelsettlement.com:80/detailed_notice.pdf
 

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I have a question about OEM wiper blade inserts for a 2005 Camry XLE V6. The information on wipers given in post #2 in this thread advocates replacing the OEM wiper blade assemblies with longer ones that are OEM for a Corolla, but since my blade assemblies are in excellent condition after 12 years of continuous garaging, I want to replace the blade inserts only.

My problem: when I approached the parts counter at the local Toyota dealership asking about blade inserts, I was asked, "Are your assemblies Denso or Valeo?" and had to stop right there because I didn't know. This is not a TMC versus TMMK distinction (my vehicle is TMMK).

I went to a Toyota parts site to look specifically at blade inserts (item #5 in the diagram linked below), and it appears there are two choices each for left and right, one with no identified supplier, and the other with Itta Esna as the supplier. All four are under separate part numbers (left: 85214-02150, 82514-YZZFZ; right: 85214-0C011, 82514-YZZE4).

http://toyotapartsestore.com/2005-toyota-camry-xle-gas_3.0_v_6-transaxle_automatic_trans_speeds-body_hardware-wiper_washer_components-8521302/

Can I count on all of these choices to interchange successfully with what is already on the car, or do I need to figure out a way to determine what hardware I have?
 

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Discussion Starter #143
I have a question about OEM wiper blade inserts for a 2005 Camry XLE V6. The information on wipers given in post #2 in this thread advocates replacing the OEM wiper blade assemblies with longer ones that are OEM for a Corolla, but since my blade assemblies are in excellent condition after 12 years of continuous garaging, I want to replace the blade inserts only.

My problem: when I approached the parts counter at the local Toyota dealership asking about blade inserts, I was asked, "Are your assemblies Denso or Valeo?" and had to stop right there because I didn't know. This is not a TMC versus TMMK distinction (my vehicle is TMMK).

I went to a Toyota parts site to look specifically at blade inserts (item #5 in the diagram linked below), and it appears there are two choices each for left and right, one with no identified supplier, and the other with Itta Esna as the supplier. All four are under separate part numbers (left: 85214-02150, 82514-YZZFZ; right: 85214-0C011, 82514-YZZE4).

http://toyotapartsestore.com/2005-toyota-camry-xle-gas_3.0_v_6-transaxle_automatic_trans_speeds-body_hardware-wiper_washer_components-8521302/

Can I count on all of these choices to interchange successfully with what is already on the car, or do I need to figure out a way to determine what hardware I have?
You probably won't be able to tell except to remove the blade insert and try them. My guess is they will both for and work, but unless you can identify a number or manufacturer on your blade or insert, you are probably SOL.

As an aside, I would guess Japanese built cars have Denso blades and American built cars have Valeo blades.

Hope that helps.
 

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Hardtopte72--Many thanks. I was afraid the answer might be exactly what it was!

I've had a look at the blade assemblies and not been able to find a part number on the inserts. I'm also more doubtful about the strategy of replacing just the inserts, because the insert backing has four barbs that keep the insert and backing from sliding in and out of the claws in the blade assembly. I cannot see a nondestructive way of getting the insert and backing out. Pliers might compress the barbs on one side, but this might ruin the backing; tearing off the insert at one end might create enough slack to pull barbs past the claw, but then I would have the problem of threading an intact new insert through the claw without galling paint on the inside; pliers might loosen the claw but also damage it. I've had a look on YouTube and the only blade replacement videos for Toyotas with my OEM setup show replacement of complete blade assemblies. The ones that show insert replacement are all for later Toyotas and the insert backings all have rectangular cutouts instead of barbs.

At this point I'm looking at revitalizing the rubber with alcohol and silicone, or moving up to a later OEM style with slightly longer blade assemblies and easy insert replacement as outlined in post #2.
 

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I cannot see a nondestructive way of getting the insert and backing out. Pliers might compress the barbs on one side, but this might ruin the backing; tearing off the insert at one end might create enough slack to pull barbs past the claw, but then I would have the problem of threading an intact new insert through the claw without galling paint on the inside; pliers might loosen the claw but also damage it. .
Why not go to a dealer
1. to find out which brand/model blade you have...and
2. how to replace the inserts for yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Hardtopte72--Many thanks. I was afraid the answer might be exactly what it was!

I've had a look at the blade assemblies and not been able to find a part number on the inserts. I'm also more doubtful about the strategy of replacing just the inserts, because the insert backing has four barbs that keep the insert and backing from sliding in and out of the claws in the blade assembly. I cannot see a nondestructive way of getting the insert and backing out. Pliers might compress the barbs on one side, but this might ruin the backing; tearing off the insert at one end might create enough slack to pull barbs past the claw, but then I would have the problem of threading an intact new insert through the claw without galling paint on the inside; pliers might loosen the claw but also damage it. I've had a look on YouTube and the only blade replacement videos for Toyotas with my OEM setup show replacement of complete blade assemblies. The ones that show insert replacement are all for later Toyotas and the insert backings all have rectangular cutouts instead of barbs.

At this point I'm looking at revitalizing the rubber with alcohol and silicone, or moving up to a later OEM style with slightly longer blade assemblies and easy insert replacement as outlined in post #2.
Can you take some pics? I just replaced inserts on my Denso Designer blades with OEM Toyota inserts. I will be making a DIY but I'm curious to see the difference.

I would also wager your blades even if purchased from Toyota prior to 2 years ago, are not actually OEM but standard aftermarket blades with a Toyota label sold through a distributor for Toyota dealers. This same thing happens with filters brake pads where the replacement numbers are not OEM numbers. They are usually identifiable by having a "YZZ" in the part number. If you see YZZ, you can bet the part number is an aftermarket part sold at a dealer.
 

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We figured out how to use a snub-nose pliers to squeeze the backings on either side so that the barbs would ease past the end claw with gentle pressure. I then went to the Toyota dealer, discovered inserts were not available under the YZZ part numbers quoted above, and ended up buying OEM inserts under part numbers 85214-02150 and 85214-0C011. I did not buy new backings, however.

The new inserts differ significantly in design from the older ones. The older ones have an uniform cross-section with four channels (two for backings, two for claws) that run all the way to each end. The newer ones also have four channels, but each of the backing channels is closed shortly before each end, and one end is fat with two divots for the end claw that are in line with but separate from the claw channels. I think these divots, rather than barbs on the backings, are the retaining system that keeps the insert from flying off the assembly when the wipers are run.

It took about an hour of experimentation to get the new inserts to fit with the old backings. Fit is quite good for the long (driver's side) assembly since the backing barbs line up with the divot for the end claw, thus providing belt-and-suspenders retaining. Fit is fair to poor for the short (passenger's side) assembly. The backings are slightly too long for the insert, which has to be stretched slightly for them to fit, and the divots do not quite line up with the barbs, so I eventually had to use a bench vise to flatten the barbs so the claw would sit in the divot without stretching the blade material. I think this "good enough for government work" solution will hold until I next have to replace inserts.

I took the old passenger-side insert with me to the dealer for comparison. In retrospect (following KitaCamry's suggestion), I should have taken the complete assembly with me, and asked to have a new assembly pulled from stock so that I could do a visual comparison.

I also talked with my father, who has handled past maintenance on this Camry, and he says he replaced the inserts once. The blade assemblies are factory original but I am not sure about the insert backings.

The pictures show reassembly of the passenger's wiper with the old insert to demonstrate how the retaining system works. Besides the barbs on the outside, each backing strip has a pair of spurs that dig into the insert. One of the pictures shows the two holes that are left. The next post illustrates the fit issues with the new inserts.
 

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At the fat end, the claw channels end in raised bumps and then the divot. At the thin end, the claw channel goes all the way to the end (so that the insert can be pulled on through the claws), but the backing channel ends shortly before that.

The post following this shows how things look when everything is sweet and divots line up with barbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
We figured out how to use a snub-nose pliers to squeeze the backings on either side so that the barbs would ease past the end claw with gentle pressure. I then went to the Toyota dealer, discovered inserts were not available under the YZZ part numbers quoted above, and ended up buying OEM inserts under part numbers 85214-02150 and 85214-0C011. I did not buy new backings, however.

The new inserts differ significantly in design from the older ones. The older ones have an uniform cross-section with four channels (two for backings, two for claws) that run all the way to each end. The newer ones also have four channels, but each of the backing channels is closed shortly before each end, and one end is fat with two divots for the end claw that are in line with but separate from the claw channels. I think these divots, rather than barbs on the backings, are the retaining system that keeps the insert from flying off the assembly when the wipers are run.

It took about an hour of experimentation to get the new inserts to fit with the old backings. Fit is quite good for the long (driver's side) assembly since the backing barbs line up with the divot for the end claw, thus providing belt-and-suspenders retaining. Fit is fair to poor for the short (passenger's side) assembly. The backings are slightly too long for the insert, which has to be stretched slightly for them to fit, and the divots do not quite line up with the barbs, so I eventually had to use a bench vise to flatten the barbs so the claw would sit in the divot without stretching the blade material. I think this "good enough for government work" solution will hold until I next have to replace inserts.

I took the old passenger-side insert with me to the dealer for comparison. In retrospect (following KitaCamry's suggestion), I should have taken the complete assembly with me, and asked to have a new assembly pulled from stock so that I could do a visual comparison.

I also talked with my father, who has handled past maintenance on this Camry, and he says he replaced the inserts once. The blade assemblies are factory original but I am not sure about the insert backings.

The pictures show reassembly of the passenger's wiper with the old insert to demonstrate how the retaining system works. Besides the barbs on the outside, each backing strip has a pair of spurs that dig into the insert. One of the pictures shows the two holes that are left. The next post illustrates the fit issues with the new inserts.
My inserts look the the parts you purchased from the second post

I would tell you to ditch those blades and swap to Denso Designer. You will never go back to those
 

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.....or just get a quality aftermarket brand set of blades (not inserts) and change it at the beginning of each rainy season.
 

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I did a little more checking. My father says the old inserts (the ones I have just replaced) were aftermarket (probably Aamco), purchased at an auto parts store, but the assemblies and backings are factory original. I visited the same auto parts store and they no longer sell inserts; instead they stock aftermarket blade assemblies that span a wide $5-$25 price range.

I then went back to the dealer with a complete set of parts numbers for blade assemblies, inserts, and insert backings for a 2005 Camry, and asked to have an assembly brought out so I could compare it visually with the right-hand blade, which I had brought with me. It turned out that both the complete assemblies and the backings have to be special-ordered, so side-by-side visual comparison would not have been possible. Moreover, one of the part numbers has been superseded: 85212-0C011 (Denso wiper blade assembly, right) has been replaced by 85212-0C012.

I strongly suspect that (1) direct replacement of the factory-original blade assemblies and their hardware is no longer possible through OEM, (2) Toyota now specifies Denso Designer as the OEM replacement even for cars that were too old to have had them at the factory, and (3) all current wiper blade part numbers (assemblies, backings, and inserts) are for Denso Designer. If this theory is correct, then dealers probably don't stock anything but inserts for cars this old because customers looking to stay OEM are such a small proportion of the total.

My experience shows that a mixed installation (Denso Designer insert with obsolete factory blade assembly and backing) can be made to work but requires some minor modifications with a bench vise.

I would tell you to ditch those blades and swap to Denso Designer. You will never go back to those
I see that Denso Designer gets rave reviews, but I have a couple of questions: are the hinges made from metal or plastic, and are the aerodynamic covers vulnerable to fading or oxidization due to sun or UV exposure?

.....or just get a quality aftermarket brand set of blades (not inserts) and change it at the beginning of each rainy season.
I have followed that approach (except possibly for the "quality" part) with my daily driver, a 23-year-old Saturn, and am looking to get away from it. I have had problems with the plastic end segment of the right-hand wiper assembly coming loose. It snaps into place and sits on a very curved part of the windshield. If this were a good-quality assembly, it would be metal and would be hinged, pivoting around a rivet. I think there are strong advantages to investing in sturdy refillable wipers, if both sturdiness and refill availability can be assured.
 

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Discussion Starter #153 (Edited)
.....or just get a quality aftermarket brand set of blades (not inserts) and change it at the beginning of each rainy season.
That's unnecessarily expensive. Good quality aftermarket blades can cost $25 each and most don't have replaceable inserts. Cheap sets cost around $10 and have lasted as little as 2 months in my experience. My Denso designer blades need $12 in inserts every 2 years.

I see that Denso Designer gets rave reviews, but I have a couple of questions: are the hinges made from metal or plastic, and are the aerodynamic covers vulnerable to fading or oxidization due to sun or UV exposure?
The aero dynamic covers can fade with exposure but after 2-4 years they just look lighter rather than stripped away. I'm not sure that the hinges are made of, but I would guess plastic. I've had the set on my Corolla for at least 4 years and they are still fine.

If you do go Denso Designer, do not buy them from a dealer unless you are getting the listed part numbers. If they have "YZZ" in the part number and a small Toyota badge on the locking plate, they are not OE. The Denso Designer sold on Amazon and Rockauto are definitely OE.

Edit: Hinges are metal.
 

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Actually, I've never bought a retail blade...I find them at thrift shops typically @ $4/pair... but that's just me....still, when my stash (currently good for 3 more years) clears, I'll definitely look into the Denso...
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Actually, I've never bought a retail blade...I find them at thrift shops typically @ $4/pair... but that's just me....still, when my stash (currently good for 3 more years) clears, I'll definitely look into the Denso...
Certainly hard to argue with that.
 

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....and this...gotta keep the eye on the BIG picture.
I won't let a few extra nickel and dime maintenance parts (gas, oil, filters, hoses, mounts, and blades) worry me so long as replacing $100/$1000 parts doesn't become a habit....replacing parts (regardless of the nuisance factor) is still cheaper than replacing the car itself......it's a good thing I like it.
 

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Phew, I just finish reading every single posting including some of the links (not all TL:DR). One question I have is I going to start using the synthetic oil, probably Mobile 1 and was wondering which viscosity should I get. I was looking at the Mobile 1 High Mileage (it has over 100K). She's a 2010 Camry 6sp manual I4 ARFE engine.
 

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Great Guide

This is great, thanks for your time doing it. I am a first time Toyota owner, I have a 2004 Camry LE. I just looked at this guide and purchased the fluids and parts i need for my car. I still have to order struts, I don't like the way the car feels on the road. My brothers says it rides fine but this is my first small car in about twenty years. I have only been driving SUV s and full size trucks.. So it may just be me.
Thanks again for the guide.
 

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Upsizing the rims to 17"ers has improved the ride of my 05 Camry a LOT....that and better tires!
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Phew, I just finish reading every single posting including some of the links (not all TL:DR). One question I have is I going to start using the synthetic oil, probably Mobile 1 and was wondering which viscosity should I get. I was looking at the Mobile 1 High Mileage (it has over 100K). She's a 2010 Camry 6sp manual I4 ARFE engine.
Assuming you don't have any leaks or consumption issues, continuing to use 0W20 should be just fine.
 
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