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Corrolla heater only blows hot air after turning fan on then immediately goes cold. If I turn fan off for a while, blows hot air then immediately goes cold again. I can hear coolant occasionally swishing through dashboard. Recently did flush and found not clogging in any engine orifice or heater core tubings.
It sounds like you are getting just a little flow through the heater core for whatever reason. Either the valve is not completely open or there is a clog. Or there is air in there, but I can't explain why you can't get the air out. If there is a slight clog then there is not enough flow to force it out maybe?
 

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Another case of a cheap part that hasn't worked out, just after 2,5 years (roughly 40k km done) my brand new clutch master cylinder is already leaking, furthermore sometimes there's a "clanking" noise when depressing the pedal, all this means a replacement is due soon.
 

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i tried going back to delete various posts and got this message...
  • You may not edit more than 10 different post(s) within 7 days
 

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i tried going back to delete various posts and got this message...
  • You may not edit more than 10 different post(s) within 7 days
No reason to delete your old posts, especially if people replied because then the conversations don't make sense.

There were cases where members had a grudge with the website and deleted thousands of very useful posts, so they imposed limits on how many posts you can edit or delete.

I usually only edit to correct mistakes I made, like if I posted an incorrect torque value, or made a grammatical mistake that changed the meaning of what I meant to say, or to replace pictures from photobucket.
 

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Brake light out, left side
A New bulb did not change it
Backup lights don't work either, but they've not worked in more than a decade, new bulbs did not work either in the backup lights, something in the wiring I was told once
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I wonder where the backup light switch is in these cars. There's so much I don't know about these cars, because these cars save me from having to learn about them - which is exactly why I buy them...
 

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Token Aussie
1998 AE102, 2018 ZRE182
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I wonder where the backup light switch is in these cars. There's so much I don't know about these cars, because these cars save me from having to learn about them - which is exactly why I buy them...
Reverse light switch is on the top of the gearbox

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Brake light out, left side
A New bulb did not change it
Backup lights don't work either, but they've not worked in more than a decade, new bulbs did not work either in the backup lights, something in the wiring I was told once
View attachment 328561

View attachment 328562
Check the socket to see if one of the little solder-like contacts is melted. It's a common problem on these. I think the bulbs on each use the same ground, so that's probably OK. Also check for melting or a loose screw where the wires attach to the socket. This should be one of the simplest electrical problems to diagnose.

Reverse switch is part of the neutral start switch on the front of the transmission under the battery.
 

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1998 AE102, 2018 ZRE182
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Reverse switch is part of the neutral start switch on the front of the transmission under the battery.
Do the US manuals have a NSS? I know ours don't. I always think of manuals by default, so you could be right for where it is on the auto (all our autos are the A240L too, no 3-speed and no electronic 4-speed)

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Thank you!
Now to find what it looks like and part number
I started browsing the electrical pages and there's quite a few pages
Test and check first! Could be a broken wire. When my reverse lights weren't working on my 1990 I noticed if I pushed the shift lever forward slightly they would light up. The neutral start switch will become flaky like that rather than completely dead, no reverse lights ever.
Do the US manuals have a NSS? I know ours don't.
No, just a reverse switch on the manual transmission, but I knew 97tacomaHA has an automatic.
 

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Corolla 97' 1.8 DX sedan
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It sounds like you are getting just a little flow through the heater core for whatever reason. Either the valve is not completely open or there is a clog. Or there is air in there, but I can't explain why you can't get the air out. If there is a slight clog then there is not enough flow to force it out maybe?
Reservoir tank coolant is brown, idk if that's a sign? Oil doesn't look like its contaminated.

I can feel the hot air through air vents when fan is off, after 2 secs of fan being turned on, heat disappears.
 

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Reservoir tank coolant is brown, idk if that's a sign? Oil doesn't look like its contaminated.

I can feel the hot air through air vents when fan is off, after 2 secs of fan being turned on, heat disappears.
There are different tests to determine if you have a blow head gasket. My friend's Tacoma had a bad head gasket and if I disconnected the hose from the radiator to the overflow tank and revved the engine a significant amount of coolant would flow out. That's from the combustion pressure leaking into the cooling system and the easiest way for the pressure to get out is through the overflow hose.

There are also test kits to detect combustion gases in the coolant. You could also do a leak-down test on each cylinder.
 
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Air Intake Chamber Cleaning

Here's the dirty top cover of the intake manifold which Toyota calls the "air intake chamber" in the repair manual or "tank, intake air surge" in the parts catalog.

View attachment 328419

View attachment 328420

Over cleaner method. A lot easier to clean than the intake manifold.

View attachment 328421

The "air intake chamber" after cleaning.

View attachment 328422
i am curious if that fuel/air induction service the dealer/and other shops that do this cleaning can get it this good if its that bad to begin with!
.... suppose there is only one way to find out :geek:
 

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Turns out my front shield got welded to the pipe when the exhaust shop was sealing the leak between the manifold and pipe a while ago. That's ok because it doesn't seem like the vibration noise is coming from the exhaust, I think it's coming from somewhere else like AC lines. It's hard to pin down because it only happens at a certain RPM, and even then sporadically. I'll think about it.

I think my distributor is leaking internally. It appears that there's oil coming out of the bottom of the cap-body interface, coating the bottom of the cap. I changed the O-ring and cap gasket when the distributor failed last year and I rebuilt it. Where else could it be leaking from, is there a third gasket?

This is the original OEM distributor. I have a backup OEM distributor I pulled from a salvage yard in storage.
a picture of that bad weld would be something to see!

i've been having some gremlin rattles on the car (passenger side front) but only at idle speed and much worse with freezing temps, that it vibrates the inside Mirror lol
could be an engine mount, heat shield, or that passenger fender damage that sombody backed into sometime in the past and drove off
one thing at a time, not sure when i can get to finding the problem unless somebody already had the exact or near-similar problem for the quickest fix
 

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This is as high as I can get the car with these ramps and need it a bit higher to get underneath on my shoulder so I can see what I am doing in the middle fuel lines
Any good suggestions on getting it higher!?
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