1996 Toyota Corolla
Hiro I am pretty sure I dreamt about you last night. Like that I met you.
See the little tab on the top of the gear shifter panel? Pop it off and push the button - see page 185 in your owners manual (page 17 of this PDF): http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM12744U/pdf/4.pdf That will allow you to put it in N and start the car.
Have some inspiration via my current project.If only it was like Beetlejuice, where you say 2ZZ three times and it magically installs itself...
An OBD2 dongle and a smartphone with a good app might be able to do it?Is there a budget friendly computer that will let me do a crankshaft relearn? (My '98 Tahoe, been troubleshooting starting issues for awhile.)
Edit: Also, hat's a good "compound" I can stick on a crankshaft position sensor so I can measure the depth to get my air gap? Thanks.
I'm not sure what GM says the procedure is, but the new crankshaft position sensor instruction pamphlet said it had to be performed. It didn't say how though. I did find some website's that said it could be done without a scanner by driving at certain speeds for specific times, then coasting to 45mph from 55mph. I tried this, but couldn't follow the steps exactly because of speed limits, stop signs, and traffic. I drove around for ~25min though and the check engine light didn't come one.An OBD2 dongle and a smartphone with a good app might be able to do it?
Think you want a feeler gauge. What does GM say the procedure is?
Mine came with two shims just incase I needed them. I guess as one of the bearings (thrust?) wears, the reluctor gets closer to the crank sensor and that can hit. The instructions specified a min air gap of 0.030in, but no max gap. My old sensor showed no signs of wear. Initally I tossed on both shims, but the Tahoe didn't want to start smoothly and stalled out. Then I used playdough stuck on the end of the sensor (saw in youtube vid, but he used sticky tack) and tried to measure the depth with a caliper. Naturally the thing wouldn't stick and get falling off, but the indent looked well, well beyond 0.030in so I didn't add any shims.Sometimes they would come with a little bit of cardstock glued to the nose to set the depth to the flywheel inside the bell housing or on the outside of the engine, but ones inside the crankcase are usually machined to be the right gap just by installing them.
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