[Haloruler64]

Hiro I am pretty sure I dreamt about you last night. Like that I met you.

 

[Hiro Protagonist]

Hiro I am pretty sure I dreamt about you last night. Like that I met you.

So that explains why I woke up in a hot sweat...

 

[Pete Suhman]

Junkyard is my go-to...

 

[Bitter]

That might work in the south but finding 30yr old cars in junkyards around Chicago just does not happen.

 

[Bitter]

If only it was like Beetlejuice, where you say 2ZZ three times and it magically installs itself...

Have some inspiration via my current project.
If you do end up doing this intake I've got the male side connector and terminals for making a TPS plug n play harness for whatever sensor pigtail you end up with. My Q45 TPS was a bit smashed so I got some kind of Nissan TPS off eBay but couldn't figure out what car it was from so...some mad science and a few minutes later I've got the thing figured out for what pin does what to give me values inline with what's compatible with the extremely forgiving Toyota ECM. Then ratcheting crimper time and voila! The male side connector is an oddball one, I had to order direct from China in a pack of mated pairs so I've got extras now. I could not find this connector anywhere else since it's technically doesn't supposed to exist. Being China quality the dimensions are a little off and the terminals are kind of thin tin, terminal tension is fine though but the connector won't snap but that's nothing a ziptie can't retain. I did forget to bring my small hand scanner home to check data but I know my close throttle position is very very close to stock. ECM spits out a pretty exact 4.9-5.0 volts but my cheap old Dell PSU was like 5.1-5.2 volts so likely I'll need to readjust the TPS on the car a little bit. Everything else is hopefully bolt on and goes smoothly, I'm fairly sure I'll need some new intake piping but I won't know exactly what until the intake is installed and I'll need to do something about some hoses from valve cover to intake as well. I'd like to run aluminum line and a vacuum reservoir for the brake booster to make sure there's consistent vacuum and a cleaner run. PCV and breather and evap I'd also like to run aluminum for as well. 3/8th aluminum would work fine for evap, I've got a catch can for PCV to plumb into the car somewhere, breather doesn't need anything fancy but it is a weird hose size. I'm sure it's all in the directions I just need to actually read them again.

 

[Hiro Protagonist]

I'm probably either going to keep the stock intake manifold or go straight to ITBs, not much point mucking around in-between

 

[Bitter]

It's been a while but from what I recall the 2ZZ didn't like ITB's all that much, from back in the day they dyno'd a loss over the stock manifold all other things being equal, but that was a long time ago. I think people expected them to behave like a 4A-GE and the 2ZZ just does not for whatever reason. Maybe things have changed since then and I'm just out of the loop, results of gains were usually due to tuning and supporting mods and similar gains were had with the same tuning time and mods with the stock intake manifold.

 

[Chris94]

Is there a budget friendly computer that will let me do a crankshaft relearn? (My '98 Tahoe, been troubleshooting starting issues for awhile.)

Edit: Also, hat's a good "compound" I can stick on a crankshaft position sensor so I can measure the depth to get my air gap? Thanks.

 

[Pete Suhman]

Is there a budget friendly computer that will let me do a crankshaft relearn? (My '98 Tahoe, been troubleshooting starting issues for awhile.)

Edit: Also, hat's a good "compound" I can stick on a crankshaft position sensor so I can measure the depth to get my air gap? Thanks.

An OBD2 dongle and a smartphone with a good app might be able to do it?

Think you want a feeler gauge. What does GM say the procedure is?

 

[Bitter]

Sometimes they would come with a little bit of cardstock glued to the nose to set the depth to the flywheel inside the bell housing or on the outside of the engine, but ones inside the crankcase are usually machined to be the right gap just by installing them.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk

 

[Chris94]

An OBD2 dongle and a smartphone with a good app might be able to do it?

Think you want a feeler gauge. What does GM say the procedure is?

I'm not sure what GM says the procedure is, but the new crankshaft position sensor instruction pamphlet said it had to be performed. It didn't say how though. I did find some website's that said it could be done without a scanner by driving at certain speeds for specific times, then coasting to 45mph from 55mph. I tried this, but couldn't follow the steps exactly because of speed limits, stop signs, and traffic. I drove around for ~25min though and the check engine light didn't come one.

How can I perform CASE relearn without a scan tool?

Do you think it is time to perform CASE relearn, and why do you need it? Different situations can necessitate this process. You need to know why you

www.obdadvisor.com

Sometimes they would come with a little bit of cardstock glued to the nose to set the depth to the flywheel inside the bell housing or on the outside of the engine, but ones inside the crankcase are usually machined to be the right gap just by installing them.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk

Mine came with two shims just incase I needed them. I guess as one of the bearings (thrust?) wears, the reluctor gets closer to the crank sensor and that can hit. The instructions specified a min air gap of 0.030in, but no max gap. My old sensor showed no signs of wear. Initally I tossed on both shims, but the Tahoe didn't want to start smoothly and stalled out. Then I used playdough stuck on the end of the sensor (saw in youtube vid, but he used sticky tack) and tried to measure the depth with a caliper. Naturally the thing wouldn't stick and get falling off, but the indent looked well, well beyond 0.030in so I didn't add any shims.

 

[Bitter]

We have a snapon scanner that can let us access that function, once it's in cam/crank sync or learn mode you snap throttle up to a specific RPM and it learns the cam/crank variance or something. If there's no engine light and it's running normally I don't suspect there's any problems to fix by doing that, there's usually a code and it runs like poop.

 

[wojak10]

I have a quick question. What does W (power steering) mean? Does that mean the version with or without power steering?
I am asking because I ordered yesterday steering racks for the 1993 Corolla (45503-29385) without power steering. And they came 1cm shorter.

 

[Apples555]

It means with power steering. Mine came with power steering and has "W(POWER STEERING)" parts associated with my VIN.

 

[Hiro Protagonist]

W/ means with, W/OUT means without

 

[Bitter]

#NotCorolla
PCV line porn? Yep, it exists.

I need to remake the right half of the line, I don't like the dip it has and I think I want it under the manifold for better ease of installation and cleaner looks...but kind of a shame to hide my handiwork! I love making things and problem solving to do things better, this is a frustrating but fun project!

 

[wojak10]

Thank you so much guys.

 

[Chris94]

I thought this was cool. The amount of 7th gen Corollas in Afghanistan is crazy. They're visible all over in the background.

 

[Hiro Protagonist]

I thought this was cool. The amount of 7th gen Corollas in Afghanistan is crazy. They're visible all over in the background.

That part of the world in general - half the online parts sellers in FB groups etc are in Pakistan, it's a massive thing over there.

 

[Bitter]

No rust, they can literally run forever.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk