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Hey, I never expected the large increase in mpg by changing to AFE blend.

Nothing else had changed, no tune up or anything mechanical.

Same commute every day and the monitor has been steady at 30.1 - 30.2 ever since changing the oil in June.

I waited this long to see if the increase is real. Before the monitor was running around 25-26 mpg.

When I stated "standard" M1, I meant whatever oil Toyota puts in under their complementary 25k service program.

I performed my first oil change at the beginning of the summer with the ac on most of the time. This week, not on at all.

Maybe the engine is fully broken in at 30 k miles?

I would have been the first to doubt it, but it is what it is.
 

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BeerSteakTxas
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Here are the specs for the old discontinued M1 0W-20 vs M1 AFE 0W-20:
[email protected] 43 vs 45.5
[email protected] 8.4 vs 8.6
TSHT viscosity 2.61 vs 2.6
Density 0.85 vs 0.855

All specs are extremely close and like I said above I don't see how AFE 0-20 can improve MPG by a whopping 15-20%. If any, since the AFE 0-20 has a bit higher viscosity, it should deliver just a tad lower MPG. Of course we don't know what kind of (and how much) additives are in these oils, but anyway 15-20% is absurdly high.

http://www.partsplusny.com/DirectoryScript/DocumentDirectory/MSDS Folder/Mobil1/MOB-020M1.PDF
http://www.chemcorp.co.uk/creo_files/upload/related-items/mobil_1_0w-20_advanced_fuel_economy_pds.pdf
 

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Honda-Tech White Ops
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^^

I wasnt going to say anything. But glad you pointed it out.





Mobile 1 isnt the oil it used to be from the 90's they really dropped off on quality.
 

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Went on the web to see if anyone else reported similar gains with AFE oil.

No one there can believe it either.


Mobil1 Advanced Fuel Economy oil really does work

i did a few oil changes with some mobile1 advanced fuel economy on my aveo. well last oil change, i used just plain mobile1. ive noticed a big drop in my mpg.
i was getting around 31-32.5 mpg.
now i was getting 25-27 mpg.
i just changed my oil yesterday back to the advanced fuel economy and im already noticing a big increase in my mpg. when this tank is empty, well find out what ive got.



http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mobil1-advanced-fuel-economy-oil-really-does-work-6964.html
 

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Went on the web to see if anyone else reported similar gains with AFE oil.

No one there can believe it either.


Mobil1 Advanced Fuel Economy oil really does work

i did a few oil changes with some mobile1 advanced fuel economy on my aveo. well last oil change, i used just plain mobile1. ive noticed a big drop in my mpg.
i was getting around 31-32.5 mpg.
now i was getting 25-27 mpg.
i just changed my oil yesterday back to the advanced fuel economy and im already noticing a big increase in my mpg. when this tank is empty, well find out what ive got.



http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mobil1-advanced-fuel-economy-oil-really-does-work-6964.html
I believe your story and thanks for sending me $25. I used the money to buy M1 0W-20 5 qt jug.
 

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If I had to guess, and I am, I suspect environmental conditions are the more likely reason you are getting better gas mileage, not the change to M1 0W-20 AFE oil from dealer installed oil (likely TGMO 0W-20). TGMO is anecdotally reported to be, after UOA testing, a fine oil for Viscosity index, etc. (BITOG). Although made by ExxonMobil, like Mobil 1, it is spec'd by Toyota to their unique formulation standards. I would consider using it but pricing and more limited availability make it a less desirable choice than M1 EP 0W-20 for me.

If you changed oil in early summer (June) and have 4,000 miles remaining, you are driving about 1500 miles per month. Working backwards, since your commute and driving habits did not change, your previous oil change was probably done at the dealer last November- December 2014. Check your servicing invoice for service date, oil type, manufacturer, part number, etc. I don't know if your dealer MIGHT have installed TGMO 5W-20 at your last complimentary dealer service, a practice that others have rarely reported in this forum. I rather doubt it, but looking at the invoice should provide that info.

Cold weather operations are notoriously hard on MPG (up to 20%-28% reduction) and New York winters are some of the most severe in the nation (BUF, Tug Hill Region, etc). A Scientific American article from April 19, 2004 stated : "Considering all these factors, the fuel economy during urban trips of less than 10 minutes, in cold weather with snowy road conditions can easily be 50 percent lower than operation of the same vehicle in warm weather with dry roads." Here is a brief blog on the subject by a Chief Meteorologist in Charlotte:http://wxbrad.com/why-cold-weather-gives-you-lower-gas-mileage/

I strongly suspect that even if you do nothing, your MPG will start dropping off this Fall/Winter as colder ambient temps/winter weather settles in and even using M1 AFE in your next oil change (circa early January 2016), will continue to see decreased MPG until the temps/weather moderate late next Spring into early Summer.

Just my $.02...and as you indicated in your post, YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY:laugh:
 

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Thanks for your reply.

I checked the invoice for the last and final synthetic oil change performed by Toyota.

It says 7 quarts of p/n 00279-0WQTE 0W20.

I agree and expect that the mpg will drop in the winter due to drop in temperature and winter blend fuel.

Previous winters, the average mpg usually drops from around 25-26 mpg to around 23 mpg.

However, I was never able to sustain an average of 30 mpg for the previous summers and I am the sole owner since getting the car in November 2011. (Dash mpg indicator still shows 30.1 ever since the switch to AFE in June).

I am assuming that since the engine is more broken in than last summer and the change to AFE blend this year, contributed to a noticeable increase in mpg.

I am not going to try to convince anyone that AFE blend is a miracle.

I think that most here believe that I am exaggerating the mpg increase, but I am only reporting what I have experienced.

FWIW, I was a degreed engineer for 18 years and trained to analyze data objectively.
 

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It isn't the oil. 2% MPG gain through changing viscosity at most. Mobil would really have something if they could claim these kinds of MPG gains.

0W-16 is on the horizon, but real-world fuel economy gains will be negligible. Manufacturers are doing everything they can to squeeze the most out of a drop of fuel in an ever-competitive MPG war.
 

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^^

Well being a car guy, not a data analyzer, I can tell you this..'



Colder air means denser air. Denser air means more fuel is used. So your winters will show a decrease in MPGs over the brutal hot summers of late.
 

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Mobile 1 isnt the oil it used to be from the 90's they really dropped off on quality.
As Toyota Lube Tech....knowing that's what Toyota oil really is. Scares the crap outta of me about the 10k oil change theory! Scares me even more when I take my handy red rag up to 2AE-FE motor's dip stick and seeing it burned almost 2 quarts of oil during that 10k oil change!

I love my job and Toyota. But that's where I fully disagree with Toyota on.

At first, I was against 10k oil change when I got my car. I did my first oil change with Royal Purple 0W-20. My MPG went up to 31 MPG compared to 30 MPG. Kept doing 5k oil changes with RP 0W-20 throughout the two years. Until last summer my garage door broke: took it to the dealer. Let them do the 10k oil changes-MPG dropped again under 30 MPG. Then I got my lube tech job; I'm doing them at 5k again using RP. MPG went up AGAIN to 35-36 MPG!

Until last week; I finally found Amsoil in a store (for the past 7 years I've been searching for it: I didn't want to deal with a Amsoil sales guy). I switch it to Amsoil 0W-20. Again, my MPG is above 36 MPG. I so badly want to take this car on interstate drive trip just to see if it will get 40 MPG! I'm fully aware about Amsoil is designed to last 25k: I'm still debating on if I should stretch to 10k or drain out at 5k since I'm showing signs of burning oil??? So far; motor has been idling smoothly and quietly even when I'm about to roll 100,000 miles.
 

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As Toyota Lube Tech....knowing that's what Toyota oil really is. Scares the crap outta of me about the 10k oil change theory! Scares me even more when I take my handy red rag up to 2AE-FE motor's dip stick and seeing it burned almost 2 quarts of oil during that 10k oil change!

I love my job and Toyota. But that's where I fully disagree with Toyota on.

At first, I was against 10k oil change when I got my car. I did my first oil change with Royal Purple 0W-20. My MPG went up to 31 MPG compared to 30 MPG. Kept doing 5k oil changes with RP 0W-20 throughout the two years. Until last summer my garage door broke: took it to the dealer. Let them do the 10k oil changes-MPG dropped again under 30 MPG. Then I got my lube tech job; I'm doing them at 5k again using RP. MPG went up AGAIN to 35-36 MPG!

Until last week; I finally found Amsoil in a store (for the past 7 years I've been searching for it: I didn't want to deal with a Amsoil sales guy). I switch it to Amsoil 0W-20. Again, my MPG is above 36 MPG. I so badly want to take this car on interstate drive trip just to see if it will get 40 MPG! I'm fully aware about Amsoil is designed to last 25k: I'm still debating on if I should stretch to 10k or drain out at 5k since I'm showing signs of burning oil??? So far; motor has been idling smoothly and quietly even when I'm about to roll 100,000 miles.
PCV issue? Haven't heard of the 2AR-FE's burning oil.
 

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^^

Well being a car guy, not a data analyzer, I can tell you this..'



Colder air means denser air. Denser air means more fuel is used. So your winters will show a decrease in MPGs over the brutal hot summers of late.
I've generally noticed my best MPG in months where A/C isn't required and temps are in the 50s-70s. Lower temps = denser air, thick fluids, more rolling resistance from cold tires, and long warm-up times, all of which really chew up fuel. A/C usage slurps down fuel and robs power too.

Some people blame "winter gas" for poor MPG, but in my experience, it's just the temperatures.
 

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Hi Folks,

My guess also is that 1-2% in economy is the most that one can expect from varying oil viscosity. The problem here is that there is a wide range of factors that influence fuel economy, and isolating this one factor to a point of statistical significance, cannot happen without using a design-of-experiment regimen.

When I read a claim for a 20% improvement, it's almost a given that the effects of other factors are being confounded with that of the oil.

We've seen similar claims in this forum about switching from regular to premium gas - another red herring. If we could get 20% from switching to this oil, and another 20% from using premium fuel, then money-back guarantee that: a. the OEM would require this combination so they could meet increasingly stringent federal CAFE targets, and: b. it would have made world-wide headline news since long ago as a means to boost our economy and standard of living.

Best,
Mark
 

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Below is an explanation of cold weather effects on fuel economy written by Harold Schock, professor of mechanical engineering and the director of the Automotive Research Experiment Station at Michigan State University, in Scientific American.

"Vehicle fuel economy can be severely diminished if additional work is required to move a vehicle through snow or water on a highway or if excessive weight is stored in the car. Tire slippage can occur on wet or icy highways, which wastes energy and decreases fuel economy. In addition, in cold climates many people bring the interiors to a comfortable temperature before driving and keep their engines idling during prolonged waiting periods to maintain that temperature. Excessive stop and go driving in heavy traffic, use of heater motors, windshield wipers and defrosting devices all cause additional fuel consumption and reduce fuel economy. It is difficult to estimate exact percentages of fuel economy reduction for these factors as they vary considerably between drivers and different road conditions, but any time a car is warming up or not moving with the engine running, the fuel economy is 0 MPG.

Auto components such as electric motors, engines, transmissions and tires consume more energy at low temperatures, especially during startup. The viscosity of the oil and other fluids increases with decreasing temperature, which means that more work and more fuel is required to overcome friction in the engine, transmission and other drivetrain components. If the outside temperature is significantly below the ambient temperature at which the EPA prescribed tests were conducted and trips are short, the engine's coolant system never reaches normal operating temperature and more fuel is utilized. Additionally, the amount of drag between tires and the road is about 20 percent greater at 0 degrees F than it is at 80 degrees F. Operating tires at lower than recommended operating pressure further degrades a vehicle's fuel economy, but this is also a problem in warm weather.

Finally, a vehicle's aerodynamic drag is proportional to air density. On a 70-degree-F day, the density of the air is 16 percent lower than on a day with temperatures around 0 degrees F. Although this makes little difference in urban driving, it could account for a highway mileage per gallon reduction of 7 percent on the colder day (including a 1.5 percent allowance for improvement in fuel efficiency at the higher engine load).

Considering all these factors, the fuel economy during urban trips of less than 10 minutes, in cold weather with snowy road conditions can easily be 50 percent lower than operation of the same vehicle in warm weather with dry roads."
 

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I've generally noticed my best MPG in months where A/C isn't required and temps are in the 50s-70s. Lower temps = denser air, thick fluids, more rolling resistance from cold tires, and long warm-up times, all of which really chew up fuel. A/C usage slurps down fuel and robs power too.

Some people blame "winter gas" for poor MPG, but in my experience, it's just the temperatures.
Yep, all true, and don't forget the dense air has more resistance at highway speeds. My plane takes off with a lot less runway in winter.
 

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Bleh.....high end specialty oils and fancy filters aren't really necessary. I have always used the cheapo Supertech oil from Walmart with a Fram filter on my 2003 Camry. It has 243,000 and still gets 30+ mpgs with very little oil burnt. On my FJ I splurged and always went with the synthetic Supertech oil and a standard Fram filter. The FJ has 143,000 on the clock with zero issues. The key thing is to change your oil on a regular basis and you'll be fine.

-B
 

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Hey Guys/Gals:
This is not Rocket science - I've been using Mobil One since 1976. Occasionally, one of the cars involved needed oil after a 400 mile drive at 80 MPH. As time went on that happened less and less frequently. But coming back to the present, I just traded my 2012 Camry which had 70,000 miles. I got Mobil One every 10,000 mile and a Toyota Filter. I never had to add any oil between changes. How can you do better than that?

Most folks that recommend oil changes every 3 - 5K miles are living in the past in the days when engines were hand assembled. The precision of today's engines requires really good lubrication from the best synthetic available - especially at cold start-up. The manufacturer, Toyota, really knows better than the so called experts that think they know better. A lot of them are just cheap and rationalizing the qualities of cheap oils. Follow Toyota's lead - Live long and prosper!
 

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Pennzoil Platinum Full syn..0W-20..every 10k, Toyo filter only..75,000 miles...*MPG no change from new...never add or "top off" oil between changes...no issues of any kind on 2012 2.5 L.. Brake pads are at 50%...2nd set of Michelins (Premier currently) should make it easily to 100K..Will replace at that time with same.* actually 1.5-2 MPG less when changed to the Premier tires from the OEM Michelin MXV's, @ 35K, but no change after that. Other than the initial 2 oil changes (dealer) I have done my own.
 

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The best oil for a Camry V6 is the cheapest 0W20 oil available at Wal Mart in 5 qt. jugs. Your car doesn't know the difference between brands.

So far I've used Castrol, Mobil 1, and I just bought a few jugs of Pennzoil for $22 each. The others were $26 each this time, so I used the $8 I saved with Pennzoil and was able to get some frozen burritos and an oil filter from the dealer.

Oil filters from my dealer are cheaper than Frams from Wal Mart, so that's what I get.
 
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