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I change my own oil on my SEV6 once a year because I only drive 7000miles a year. I use Mobil 1 0w-20 and Fram Ultra filter. I never use Toyota's free 2/25k program, don't like how they over tighten the cap and housing. FYI the oil looks light brown after 7k miles, still look clean IMO.
 

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I like the idea of changing the oil at 5K. I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 (PP) in my 2009 V6 Venza with OEM Toyota cartridge filter. I would recommend PP in the 5W-20 and 5w-30 weights. If your engine is specced for 0W-20, use the TGMO 0W-20 from the dealer. It is a full synthetic made by Mobil and is considered to have better specs than Mobil 1. (TGMO = Toyota Genuine Motor Oil)
Check your owner's manual or oil filler cap on what oil weight to use.
 

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If I change my oil every 5K here in Florida is there any benefit using synthetic vs. conventional oil?
So much more information is needed before any definitive answer can be given:

What oils are you comparing...? What weight range?
How MANY miles do you drive per year?
What TYPE of driving do you do? Local/highway?
How LONG are your drives each day?
What is the oil level after 5k miles? Do you have to add any during that 5k OCI?
How long do you want to own the car?

Do you do your own OC? Do you have the dealer do it?

What benefits are you thinking about? Time/money/the environment....benefits for you or the car?

Your answers are needed before anything more than generic conjecture can be offered.
 

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Manual calls for an ILSAC grade oil. As long as it meets ILSAC, it does't make any difference if it is synthetic or not, if it is changed per Toyota requirements.
 

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Is there a knot at the end of a thread?
If the thread never ends, then we will never ever know.

Full Synthetics have their limits, but up to their limits they provide better coverage and extended use beyond the limits of refined conventional oil.

Blends open up a whole new can of worms.

Fully synthetic oils are Superior and even tend to flow better (molecules are much more consistent in size and shape and do not shear or break down as easily).
If you have a leak, you will find that synthetics may very well increase the volume of flow.
Seals tend to swell more with conventional oils, so if you switch to synthetics, the seals can slowly change and a leak may occur, but this is "generally" never seen in the real world.

Full synthetics do not dilute with Petrol as easily as conventional.

There are draw backs if you mix or change back and forth between synthetics and conventional. (affects seals differently)

The price of a barrel of oil does not greatly affect the price synthetic, so as the price of fuel increases, the price of synthetics will actually be more stable during this increase, but conventional oil is, in all reality, basically still oil.

For my hard earned dollar, I choose synthetic, but in the true overall scope of things, I trade my cars far too frequently to even have to worry about the extra benefits.

If you will change it every 20 tank fill-ups, it will cost you about the same as one tank of gas. (Depending upon where you go for oil changes)..

I like clean oil..
Our engines LOVE and need clean oil..
Buy the good stuff and change it when it starts to change color (5,000 miles, or every 6 months seems reasonable) I fill-up my tank when it gets to 1/2, so 20 tank fill-ups is equal to roughly 5,000 miles..

Everyone with a newer Toyota engine should use synthetic oil and I believe that most of them do.
If you feel like you are wasting perfectly good synthetic oil, capture it and use if in your lawn mower.

If you plan on your Toyota going the distance (300,000 plus miles) then report back and let us know all of the adventures of your extended 300,000 mile trip while using conventional oil..

You know, you do not have to change your socks as often as you do.
You could easily wear them for a week before you throw them in the wash, but everyone is different and each of us have different needs and results.
 

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0/20 oil question

I know that the Mobil 0/20 oil is supposed to be good for 10K but is it safe to leave in he car for a year. I just hit 10K with my 2012. In 11/2013 I had Toyota change the oil apparently early at 5K under their free 2yr maintenance but they stated they would not change the oil again under the plan unless I put 10K on the car even though I told them that wouldn't happen for at least a year!

Eventually I plan on doing my own synthetic oil changes at 5K when the maintenance light comes on, which I just had to reset as the OEM setting is at 5K not 10K.
 

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I know that the Mobil 0/20 oil is supposed to be good for 10K but is it safe to leave in he car for a year. I just hit 10K with my 2012. In 11/2013 I had Toyota change the oil apparently early at 5K under their free 2yr maintenance but they stated they would not change the oil again under the plan unless I put 10K on the car even though I told them that wouldn't happen for at least a year!

Eventually I plan on doing my own synthetic oil changes at 5K when the maintenance light comes on, which I just had to reset as the OEM setting is at 5K not 10K.
Your dealer is wrong! Under the 2 yr/25K free service agreement, they should provide the service at 5K OR 6 mos, whichever comes first.

My sales guy emphasized that the 6 mos service intervals were to be followed, even if the mileage points had not been reached.
 

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OCI is every 12 months or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first (although I don't go that long - M1 AFE barely has enough additives to maintain those intervals - the Toyota oil is slightly better). You can show them the warranty/maintenance part of the manual if they try to say otherwise.

Tire rotations and "inspections" are at 5K/6 month intervals.

5,000 miles or 6 months
Check installation of driver’s floor mat
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
Rotate tires
Visually inspect brake linings/drums and
brake pads/discs
Additional Maintenance Items for
Special Operating Conditions2
Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:
Inspect ball joints and dust covers
Inspect drive shaft boots
Inspect engine air filter
Inspect steering linkage and boots
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and
body

Repeated trips of less than five miles in
temperatures below 32°F / 0°C:
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1

Extensive idling and/or low speed driving
for a long distance such as police, taxi or
door-to-door delivery use:
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1

MILEAGE:
10,000 miles or 12 months

Check installation of driver’s floor mat
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Rotate tires
Visually inspect brake linings/drums and
brake pads/discs
Additional Maintenance Items for
Special Operating Conditions2
Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:
Inspect ball joints and dust covers
Inspect drive shaft boots
Inspect engine air filter
Inspect steering linkage and boots
Tighten nuts a
 

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OCI is every 12 months or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first (although I don't go that long - M1 AFE barely has enough additives to maintain those intervals - the Toyota oil is slightly better). You can show them the warranty/maintenance part of the manual if they try to say otherwise.

Tire rotations and "inspections" are at 5K/6 month intervals.

5,000 miles or 6 months
Check installation of driver’s floor mat
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
Rotate tires
Visually inspect brake linings/drums and
brake pads/discs
Additional Maintenance Items for
Special Operating Conditions2
Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:
Inspect ball joints and dust covers
Inspect drive shaft boots
Inspect engine air filter
Inspect steering linkage and boots
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and
body

Repeated trips of less than five miles in
temperatures below 32°F / 0°C:
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1

Extensive idling and/or low speed driving
for a long distance such as police, taxi or
door-to-door delivery use:
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1

MILEAGE:
10,000 miles or 12 months

Check installation of driver’s floor mat
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Rotate tires
Visually inspect brake linings/drums and
brake pads/discs
Additional Maintenance Items for
Special Operating Conditions2
Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:
Inspect ball joints and dust covers
Inspect drive shaft boots
Inspect engine air filter
Inspect steering linkage and boots
Tighten nuts a
Exactly, 10k or one year as per my last invoice. Nice gimmick, especially using Mobil 0w/20
 

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We've been paying virtually the same for OCs for 40 years....for oil that so much better than it ever was...
... and people still want to squeeze another few more miles from it...

Change synthetic oil at 7k and know that for no more than $100 a year (.00666666¢/mi, paying the dealer full dollar for the OC), your engine will last longer than any other component in the car.
 

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Change synthetic oil at 7k and know that for no more than $100 a year (.00666666¢/mi, paying the dealer full dollar for the OC), your engine will last longer than any other component in the car.
I really hope my Camry does not last longer than the Nut behind the steering wheel.
I am looking forward to being around for another 100 trips around the sun..
 

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Ahhhh....overlooked THAT part....great thought!

Anyway...when I get a car it's because I like it and foresee no reason to get rid of it...still, it happens, but it's never been because the engine died...mostly because of all the mechanicals attached TO it....

.......
 
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