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0W20 oil question

I only do about 5K on my 2012 Camry a year which came with the 0W20 oil. Had to argue with the dealer at the 1yr/5K mark to change the oil and filter under the free maintenance program a year ago this November. When they changed the oil they used Mobil oil not Toyota. Since I am not that comfortable going a year on an oil change I was wondering if I could use 5/30 synthetic like in my 08 Highlander every 5K without any issues. Or is there really merit not a gimmick to this 10K or 1 year Toyota oil change interval, seems like they just want to say some $$.
 

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From what I know Toyota oil is Mobil synthetic :dunno: I too drive very little as you do but when they said 10,000 mi I said I'll go 7500mi but that's it, I want it changed and will go yearly after that, dealer was fine with that.
NSF
 

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I only do about 5K on my 2012 Camry a year which came with the 0W20 oil. Had to argue with the dealer at the 1yr/5K mark to change the oil and filter under the free maintenance program a year ago this November. When they changed the oil they used Mobil oil not Toyota. Since I am not that comfortable going a year on an oil change I was wondering if I could use 5/30 synthetic like in my 08 Highlander every 5K without any issues. Or is there really merit not a gimmick to this 10K or 1 year Toyota oil change interval, seems like they just want to say some $$.
What grade/weight Mobil....conventional or synthetic?

5k miles is absolutely no problem with synthetic...normally 5k with conventional is fine too...but...5k miles in a year can mean one of 2 things...
1. a lot of short trips...or
2. fewer but longer runs...

Scenario 1 would definitely benefit from synthetic...10k mi/yr (2x your yearly use) would be considered normal use...5k/yr would be considered SEVERE use and Toyota I believe recommends 5k miles for severe use...check your owners' manual on this...

Scenario 2 would allow you to go 7500mi./18 months on synthetic with no problem...synthetic oil sits in the sump with none of the condensation and other issues associated with extended OCIs mile-wise and time-wise.

As for 0w-20 vs 5w-30...many people prefer the latter...many preferring either Mobil1 or Pennzoil Platinum...a search here would give you many of their thoughts on this...
 

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The engine will be the LAST thing to fail on a modern car. The car will probably be on your second or third transmission when that happens, and have monthly repair bills averaging almost a new car payment by then.

BMW has been going over 10k miles between changes on full synthetic for many years now by the way...
 

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Your CV boots and drive axles will most definitely fail before then, but sadly I don't know of anyone other than myself who puts rubber protecant on them. If you love your car and want to show it some love there are far better ways to spend your time and money than superfluous $50 driveway oil changes.
 

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I personally go 4-5 k on full synthetic mobil 1 or castrol syntec but that just me. Im sure your safe to go 10k, just check it and top if needed.

I wouldnt go 10 k but thats me. personal preference perhaps?

as of 0w20 vs 5w30 or even 5w20

I would stick with 0w20 maybe 5w20 but not 5w30. If you use 5w30 it wont kill the engine its just the engines tolerances are designed to run 0w20 or 5w20 not 30w
 

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The engines are specifically designed for 0-20. The tolerances between moving metal parts (such as bearings) are less than the width of a human hair. Not to mention to obtain the best fuel mileage possible, use what they recommend. It is exactly what we use when we build them. It's like water almost.

As far as mileage goes, you can actually go well over what it advised. We (Marines) used synthetic in our birds and I can tell you that it goes A LONG damn way before it actually needs to be changed. I trusted synthetic in a 30 million dollar aircraft so I trust it in my $20K car :D
 

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That's what I m going to do since I like the original poster only drive about 5,000 miles a year(short trips, city driving) and no way am I going to pay 70 bucks twice a year for oil changes without being sure I need them twice a year.
You can bring a $25 5-qt jug (less 1 quart to top off as needed over the year) to the dealer and they'll change it for $20+$7 filter for a $52 synthetic OC once a year...even cheaper possibly...as little as $5 for that 5qt jug of SYN if you get the oil on sale (as I have gotten for 2 years now), for a $30 SYNTHETIC OC, either at the dealer or at an indie, both of whom I trust...
 

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as of 0w20 vs 5w30 or even 5w20

I would stick with 0w20 maybe 5w20 but not 5w30. If you use 5w30 it wont kill the engine its just the engines tolerances are designed to run 0w20 or 5w20 not 30w
+1, Do NOT use 5W-30 on today's engine, the thicker oil will lower your mpg due to higher resistant between bearing space. I use 5W20 Mobil 1, I live in SoCal and low temp never below 40 here.
 

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Some people have found that 5w-30, both conventional and synthetic, the weight category that is VERY VERY light with a lot of VII for use in most cars, makes for a quieter running engine than 0w-20, with little if any loss in MPG...another advantage of 5w-30, is that many find that oil consumption drops with it over the OCI...

So I recommended it with plenty of anecdotal accounts as a viable alternative to 0w-20 especially in Florida, home of OP.
 

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30 is too thick to properly flow and not only will reduce MPG but also likely to increase wear.

Just because 30>20 doesn't mean it's ten better.
 

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30 is too thick to properly flow and not only will reduce MPG but also likely to increase wear.

Just because 30>20 doesn't mean it's ten better.
This is simply not true...

5w-30 is not your "30w" of old....either Mobil1 or Pennzoil Platinum are excellent choices...they are not too thick to flow properly...they will not reduce MPG significantly, nor are they likely to increase wear...

I didn't say it was any better...I said it was a viable alternative in certain circumstances...e.g. when oil consumption is higher than normal, when running in hot climates at extreme/severe conditions, and to quiet a noisy engine...some engines prefer one weight more than another, even one brand over another...
 

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Toyota says to use ILSAC rated oils, and recommends the lowest viscosity oil in that grade range, apparently for fuel economy. If ILSAC grade oils are what to use, then is it OK to use the highest viscosity oil in the ILSAC range, 10W-30? It would seem so.
 

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Other than bad engine design, the major cause of oil consumption is infrequent oil changes causing oil to break down, carbonize, and clog/seize piston rings.
 

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You can bring a $25 5-qt jug (less 1 quart to top off as needed over the year) to the dealer and they'll change it for $20+$7 filter for a $52 synthetic OC once a year...even cheaper possibly...as little as $5 for that 5qt jug of SYN if you get the oil on sale (as I have gotten for 2 years now), for a $30 SYNTHETIC OC, either at the dealer or at an indie, both of whom I trust...
I did not know the dealer installed customer supplied parts. Most independent shops won't. Kinda like taking a steak to Outback and asking them to cook it for you. Few independent shops will change oil for $20 labor. Free or, cheap oil changes are loss leaders used to get you in the door and try and sell you all kinds of stuff you do not need.
 

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Toyota says to use ILSAC rated oils, and recommends the lowest viscosity oil in that grade range, apparently for fuel economy. If ILSAC grade oils are what to use, then is it OK to use the highest viscosity oil in the ILSAC range, 10W-30? It would seem so.
The advantage of 0w or 5w over 10w is better cold start lubrication...the additive pack of modern oils are going to help them LAST LONGER...to stay viable over more miles.

At normal operating temps 5w-30 and 10w-30 will lubricate @ 30w...As most wear to engines occurs at the start, using 5w would be a better choice than 10w.

The advice most often given to people when switching to synthetic oil is to stay with the same weight range...i.e. if the engine calls for 5w-30 conventional, use 5w-30 synthetic...

In the case of an engine spec'd for 0w-20, two reasons for considering 5w-30 would be if there was more oil 'use' (drop in oil level) between OCs, and if one felt that there was more engine noise than liked...5w-30 oils are a bit, a bit, thicker and might reduce oil loss, and the heavier oil might quiet engine chatter...

There are reports that not just oil weight but OIL BRAND has an effect on both consumption and engine noise, so that is yet another consideration...regardless, research is required before any change in oil used.
 

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Toyota says to use ILSAC rated oils, and recommends the lowest viscosity oil in that grade range, apparently for fuel economy. If ILSAC grade oils are what to use, then is it OK to use the highest viscosity oil in the ILSAC range, 10W-30? It would seem so.
I'm using 0-30 M1; it offers low start up viscosity (almost as low as 0-20), but has thicker and stronger film and higher viscosity under the normal and high stress operating conditions. Also, my cold start up is quieter now and "grinding" noise practically unnoticeable.
10-30 is way too thick for a newer engines, I wouldn't use it even after 100K.
 
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