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I did not know the dealer installed customer supplied parts. Most independent shops won't. Kinda like taking a steak to Outback and asking them to cook it for you. Few independent shops will change oil for $20 labor. Free or, cheap oil changes are loss leaders used to get you in the door and try and sell you all kinds of stuff you do not need.
Surprised me too...but they do...at least oil and filter...also...as you say, it gives the dealer an opportunity to "inspect" your car for "needed" repairs...and while some will try to upsell items UNneeded, believe me, most cars that come in to dealers need more than just an oil change...

The dealer I go to will inspect brakes, or give an alignment check, or the typical "21-point" courtesy check...last time I went with alignment; this time I went with brakes.
 

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I'm using 0-30 M1; it offers low start up viscosity (almost as low as 0-20), but has thicker and stronger film and higher viscosity under the normal and high stress operating conditions. Also, my cold start up is quieter now and "grinding" noise practically unnoticeable.
10-30 is way too thick for a newer engines, I wouldn't use it even after 100K.
Well, there you are...he likes Mobil, I like Pennzoil...though truth be told I've yet to try Mobil...though DM's preference convinces me that if I see M1 on sale when it's time for an OC I'll have no qualms switching horses...though I might just stay with 5w-30...just because I'm too conservative to make too many changes at once :lol:
 

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BeerSteakTxas
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Well, there you are...he likes Mobil, I like Pennzoil...though truth be told I've yet to try Mobil...though DM's preference convinces me that if I see M1 on sale when it's time for an OC I'll have no qualms switching horses...though I might just stay with 5w-30...just because I'm too conservative to make too many changes at once :lol:
I have no preferences brand wise, I just don't see any other 0-30 in 5 qt. jugs at WM. :)
Pennzoil Platinum is a good oil too and I may try it some day.
in your case, "kytacamry's" 2.4 was designed to take 5-30, so unless you are burning some oil, you better stay with what recommended.
But if you are at 100-120K+ or "smocking" a bit under hard acceleration you may switch to 5-40.
 

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In your case, "kitacamry's" 2.4 was designed to take 5-30, so unless you are burning some oil, you better stay with what recommended.
But if you are at 100-120K+ or "smoking" a bit under hard acceleration you may switch to 5-40.
Thanks for the ideas...

I don't know HOW to see Kitacam's rear end smoking under hard acceleration unless I get someone to drive it in front of me...but that's a thought...next time I take it to my indie mechanic I'll have him drive behind me to check for that...since it's a stick, extreme DEceleration in gear will also clearly show any blow-by...I remember my BMW 2002 would leave a wispy trail of smoke doing that.

...oil level drops a quart between 5.5k-7k miles depending on the type of miles driven, and that seems fine for continuing to use 5w-30...for now, @120k miles.
 

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There are 3 considerations when buying oil.

Brand, I have been using Castrol for decades, ever since Cummins tested off the shelf oils way back when, and concluded the major brands were all much the same except Castrol was more consistent sample to sample. That maybe all boloney now, there is something about old habits.

Car manufacturer requirements, for Toyota, ILSAC rated oil is what it gets.

Viscosity, these light oils are political. I'll use 5W-20 until the warranty is out, then most likely 10W-30. Today's engines maybe designed to survive on light oils, but that does not mean a little thicker oil will hurt them.
 

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Why not go buy the Toyota recommendations :dunno: Reinventing the wheel is better off left to THE ENGINEERS WHO BUILT THE CAR, is it not.
Although I will do oil changes at 7500mi just because :D
NSF
My "favorite" thread starter on BiTOG is "My car's got 170k miles....it doesn't use any oil (or it burns 1 quart in 5k miles)...What oil should I change to now, now that I've got a high mileage vehicle...?"

Such headcases deserve only one response :facepalm:
 

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These days Toyota engineering is heavily compromised by government regulation, even if that means lubing the engine with water to eke out another fraction of MPG. It is a compromise they have to make regardless how good their engineering is otherwise. I don't find maximum MPG that important, so I'll engineer the oil viscosity as I like.

[edit: MPG for MPH in last sentence....kitacamry]
 

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These days Toyota engineering is heavily compromised by government regulation, if that means lubing the engine with water to eke out another fraction of MPG, it is a compromise they have to make regardless how good their engineering is otherwise. I don't find maximum MPG that important, so I'll engineer the oil viscosity as I like.

[edit: MPG for MPH in last sentence....kitacamry]
Of course you will ;)
NSF
 

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I did not know the dealer installed customer supplied parts. Most independent shops won't. Kinda like taking a steak to Outback and asking them to cook it for you. Few independent shops will change oil for $20 labor. Free or, cheap oil changes are loss leaders used to get you in the door and try and sell you all kinds of stuff you do not need.
It depends by dealer. My dealer 100% won't let customers bring in their own parts, no matter what it is.
 

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These days Toyota engineering is heavily compromised by government regulation, even if that means lubing the engine with water to eke out another fraction of MPG. It is a compromise they have to make regardless how good their engineering is otherwise. I don't find maximum MPG that important, so I'll engineer the oil viscosity as I like.
That will serve you well when your Camry hits 250K miles.
 

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It depends by dealer. My dealer 100% won't let customers bring in their own parts, no matter what it is.
That's weird GA. I don't know a dealer who WON"T let you bring your parts in. Of course they just don't warranty those said parts. BTW, my stereo is done. Video coming.
 

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That's weird GA. I don't know a dealer who WON"T let you bring your parts in. Of course they just don't warranty those said parts. BTW, my stereo is done. Video coming.
Haha yea, must vary by dealer. All it probably takes is one dealer in an area to do it and then that one becomes the favorite and the other dealers have to do it to so their bottom line isn't hurt too bad. Haha I'm over thinking it :lol: but yea mine won't and I don't know of one that will in my area (dc metro).

Nice man, can't wait to check it out!!!
 

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Is a high moly oil important for 7th generation engine longevity?

The factory fill 0W-20 Toyota oil has a very high moly content as does this Mazda factory fill 0W-20 http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/501/Idemitsu_-_Mazda_0W-20_Synthetic.jpg

Are these high moly oils important for engine longevity or is their sole purpose to increase fuel economy? The reason I ask is I'm debating whether to use the high moly Toyota 0W-20 or low moly Mobil 1 5W-30 in my new 4 cylinder 2015 Camry.
Thanks.
 

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The factory fill 0W-20 Toyota oil has a very high moly content as does this Mazda factory fill 0W-20 http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/501/Idemitsu_-_Mazda_0W-20_Synthetic.jpg

Are these high moly oils important for engine longevity or is their sole purpose to increase fuel economy? The reason I ask is I'm debating whether to use the high moly Toyota 0W-20 or low moly Mobil 1 5W-30 in my new 4 cylinder 2015 Camry.
Thanks.
Great that you have a 2015 Camry. If the RPM is not between 1100-1300 when you are going 40-50 MPH then something is wrong with your car. Maybe that extra Moly is making your engine work extra hard than other Camrys.
 

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???? What happened to "2015 Sonata is quieter, rides better than a Lexus and cheaper than a Camry"?
That's all still true, plus the Sonata's air conditioner puts out really refreshing 36 degree F air vs only 43 for the 2015 Camry. On the other hand, the Camry 4 cyl feels more powerful in everyday driving and it's reprogrammed 6 speed auto is now very responsive so it's like driving a V6 car. The Camry's steering is lighter so the car feels more nimble. The Camry's old fashion fuel injection system should be more reliable and less expensive to maintain over the long run vs. the Sonata's high pressure direct injection. Resale value of the Camry is significantly better and it would be easier to find a buyer for a used Camry. The improved interior of the 2015 model Camry looks and feels more upscale and modern than the 2015 Sonata. But yeah, it was a hard to give up the zero vibration, tank like feel and ride of the Sonata, it's more softly padded front seats and it's frigid air conditioner that keeps the car cold even with the fan on it's lowest setting.
 

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to answer your question, no, do not use 5w30 in your camry. the tight tolerances of modern engines need the lighter 0w20. the extra resistance of the heavier weight in those tight areas will increase resistance and friction, thus making your engine less efficient and possibly damage it. at a minimum you will decrease your fuel efficiency.

i do not know about the moly issue. maybe the factory fill has extra moly for the initial break in?
 

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I always thought the molybdenum particles were too big to be used with modern oil filters. They'd clog up the filter. Plus, aren't the newer oil standards designed to reduce or remove metalic anti wear additives like zinc and moly since they prematurely degrade catalytic converters?

Surprised to see a Mazda labeled oil with moly.
 
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