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4,345 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here it is. My long awaited quick install guide for an SMT-6 on a 3vz-fe, approved by Perfect Power as the world market 3vz-fe Wiring diagram, and quick installation guide. (Talk about hard work for me 'cause theirs is WRONG)

Please. Before installing the SMT-6 unit, set your ignition timing to the stock timing of 10*BTDC. Otherwise No one will be able to compare ignition maps, because no one will know what their base timing is.

The first connection that should be made to the SMT-6 should be T'ing into the D-1-Black wire w’ Orange stripe or a+ 12VDC power source. You can take it from the ECU’s power, or any other permanent power source. It MUST have as little noise as possible, and be a good connection.

The second connection should be a T into A-13-White wire w’ Black stripes (the ECU’s -12VDC ground), or to ground to the chassie. As before, there should be as little noise as possible, and it must be a good connection.

At this point we need to test the SMT-6’s functionality. POWER THE LAPTOP OFF and cut the ignition off as connecting the serial connection when it is hot can blow the com port in the SMT unit. Avoid disconnecting and reconnecting the comms cable while the ignition is ON as that can also lead to SMT-6 damage.

Once the connection is made start the Laptop and turn the ignition to ON with the engine not running. Load the SMT-6 tuning suite. If it is not able to find a connection, under the tools menu, select the correct comm. port.

From this point on, all connections to the SMT-6 should be made with the ignition-OFF and the laptop not connected-Off

For future reference, SMT-6 tunes and reads all 0-5 and 0-10 volt signals by 19mV. That = 0.019V. This is needed for A/F voltage tuning, and reading ECT Engine Temperature.

Global Settings
Select Global Settings on the menu.
Under the Ignition Tab:
Teeth per turn = 24
Teeth per firing = 8
Ignition Advance & retard limits = 12 (Note this is just for safety. There are 720 degrees per firing divided by 24 teeth. The maximum advance/retard of the unit is actually 30 degrees)

Ignition dwell = the default setting, 1.5
Cylinders Tab = 6
Switch Tab: (This is the switchable output. I use the orange wire to activate ACIS/variable intake, earlier than the stock setting to smooth power output)
RPM = 3250
Temperature = OFF
Deflection = 45%
Modes Tab = Mode 10 - Single Ignition Advance and Retard + Frequency Fuel
System Config tab: (unlisted are off)
Positive Input Pol = ON
Positive Output Pol = ON
Low Level Input = ON
One-Missing Tooth=ON

TPS Connection

T the Brown TPS input wire into the B-10-Black wire of the ECU. Now we need to calibrate the signal. Under the Scale Settings menu, open deflection. Checkmark the Activate Function box. The unit will now be displaying the lowest TPS voltage your car gives. Whatever the lowest % reading the SMT-6 reads, add 5% and type the number in the minimum box. Hold the throttle at wide open and note the TPS %. Subtract 5% from that number and input that to the maximum box. Apply the settings and OK the menu.

At the main SMT-6 screen, the red box should now run smoothly along the bottom row of boxes as you depress the throttle.

Calibrating the RPM Scale
Open the Scale Settings menu and RPM Scale. Check Activate Function. In the Minimum box set the RPM to 300RPM (the lowest setting it will accept) while setting the Maximum to 6850 rpm. Apply the settings and OK the menu. The SMT-6 will not tune the bottom row, so it will not interfere with idle. It will also not interfere with engine cranking using these settings.

Crank the engine. The object is that at-idle the red box that indicates current position of RPM and TPS angle should never fall below the second line. The engine should idle on the second line of the map<s>. Around 734 rpm will display on the second line should be below the normal 750-800rpm idle of the engine. If this objective has not been met, recalibrate it to make it work.

Connecting AFM/Analog Fuel Signal
Before cutting wires. With the engine idling put a multi-meter on the AFM signal and connect to a ground to record the voltage output of the AFM at idle.

Cut the ECU’s B-12-Yellow wire w’ Blue stripes. The AFM side of the wire (from the engine) should connect to the Blue-Analog Input wire of the SMT-6. The ECU side should connect to the Violet-Analog Output wire of the SMT-6.
Do not tape/insulate the connections yet.

Connecting and Calibrating Ignition
The SMT unit controls ignition by advancing, or retarding the NE crank position signal. (Taken from the distributor in our case)
Before cutting the wire to give ignition control to the SMT-6, we first need to be sure the crank settings are functional.

T the Yellow-Ignition Input Wire onto the C-12-Black wire of the ECU.
Crank the motor. The RPM shown on the SMT-6’s tuning maps should mimic those of your tachometer. When warm, idle should settle down between 750-800 rpm, and be around 1000rpm with the A/C idle-up cycle. The Ignition rev limiter should kick in between 6900rpm and 7100rpm.

If this is close to correct we can now modify the signal. Cut the C-12-Black wire. The Yellow-Ignition Input Wire should be on the incoming side (engine side). Connect the Pink-Ignition Bi-Polar output wire to the ECU side of the wire.
The engine will now be able to crank and run with the SMT-6 controlling the ignition signal to the ECU.

Calibrating the Fuel Trim
Select Global Settings from the menu. With the engine idling, connect the multi-meter to the Violet-Analog Output wire of the SMT-6. If the voltage is not roughly the same as the previously recorded voltage (at the same idle RPM, and outside temperature)
Analog Tab:
Fuel Zero Calibration = The fuel zero changes in increments of 19mV.

Final Installation Instruction
Once the unit is installed, Strip all non-used wires and ground them. Non-grounded wires act as large antennas and will cause interference if not grounded.

For More Functionality
Tuning ACIS Activation.
At this point you can Cut the C-3-Light green wire and connect it to the Orange Auxiliary Output wire to the engine side wire. This will change the activation of the VSV valve that controls the ACIS (variable intake flap) in the intake manifold. I find by activating it around 3250rpm, instead of the stock 3900rpm. You smooth the large power drop between the 2500rpm peak torque curve, and the 4400 peak torque curve. Doing so does not eliminate the drop-off, but helps it noticeably.

Reading the EGO/O2 sensor. Keep in mind the stock sensors are more than likely worn out, and are not accurate in the least bit. They really only show leaner/richer than 14.7. Use it for Economy tuning, not power tuning.

If you want to use the SMT’s ability to correct for Engine temperature, T the green wire into the B-4 wire. Keep in mind!!! This is a dropping voltage signal. The higher the voltage, the LOWER the engine temp. In the DOS COMMAND box you can calibrate the scale via typing the commands:
TH = Temperature High
TL = Temperature Low (swap TH for TL to set low)
A = Grid Position (remember the bottom row does count! Bottom row = 0)
B = Displayed Temperature
C = Voltage supplied.
So the stock settings of:
TL 0 -12 220 means Temperature Low of grid position 0 = (display)-12 at (220*0.019mV=) 3.8v.
TH 15 120 20 means Temperature High of grid position 15 = (display) 120 at (20*0.019mV=)0.38v
You can speed the process by reading the voltage with the ignition-ON (for 0 temperature) and reading it at idle once the motor has warmed up for around row 13.
Tuning done by this extra map takes the fuel map, and then multiplies it by this map.
So you multiply the active fuel cell, by whatever the corresponding active cell of the AEmp. 1 = 100% 0.9=90% ect.

If you are having problems with the motor running, or wrong RPM shown after cutting the NE signal wire. You have wrong global settings. This is the #1 cause for ignition and cranking problems.
If you have misc. engine stalling the #2 cause is poor ground, and power connections. If you must, Run a dedicated power wire to the battery, and ground to the chassie. (please install a >5A inline fuse!!!)

4,345 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Tuning Notes

Please. Before installing the SMT-6 unit, set your ignition timing to the stock timing of 10*BTDC. Otherwise No one will be able to compare ignition maps, because no one will know what their base timing is.

The stock settings are very lax for both fuel and ignition. Anyone that has tried manual ignition advance already knows where the key areas are!

A 3vz-fe makes peak torque during a large area from 2500rpm through 4400rpm. During that area, the fuel and ignition timing is almost as aggressive as the motor can take. It is very well tuned from the factory. Unfortunately the Car is too rich, with too little advance past the curve to burn fuel and make HP, while there is too little ignition under the curve.

Do not be afraid of ignition timing. You can add 3-5 degrees between idle and the 2500rpm peak torque curve. You can add 1-3 degrees during the 2500rpm @ 4400rpm peak torque curve. From 4400 to the redline you can add 5-10 degrees of advance.

Fuel should be lowered around the top of the horsepower curve. You can begin to cut fuel around the peak HP (5200rpm) ending with a good deal of fuel cut by the stock 6850 RPM redline. From here fuel is a touchy subject with two possibilities depending on your engine. If you are able to add 3 or more degrees of advance during the peak torque curve, you should ADD fuel because you can burn it. If you can’t add 3 degrees of fuel, leave it alone. Under the peak torque you might be able to add fuel if you can add 4+ degrees of advance.

The more fuel you are able to completely burn, you obviously make more power. However, what most don’t realize is that your throttle response will also improve. Even small amounts of ignition and fuel tweaking will make large improvements in throttle response.

Your ignition maps will more than likely take the shape of mine, but without as much ignition advance. Your fuel maps should originally look like mine from 5100rpm block on up.(skip mid range rich/leaning until you can figure out what yours needs)

Explaining the second greatest ability of the SMT-6, other than ignition tuning

The SMT-6 has one more major function that has not been covered. It has two entire sets of maps that you can swap live via a grounded switch.

The Grey Map-Switch wire should be connected to a switch. The switch should connect to ground. When the switch grounds the grey wire, the SMT-6 will use the B map set instead of the A set. What can you do with this? A lot!

Assuming you want the A map for performance. Initially its best use is to leave the B map set with values of 0. That will make the SMT-6 Bypass all connections so that it acts like a pass-through device with no changes being made. By doing so, you can upload some quick changes to the A tuning map, make a run, swap to the stock B map, and make a run. Now you have a near-instant comparison of the changes made.
Once the first map is set for performance, you can go back to the B map and set it for economy. Running the same advance, you can lean the fuel map, to leaner than 14.7-1 by watching the o2 sensor voltage. As before, they’re not accurate, however they will tell you when you are leaner than 14.7-1 A/F Ratio.

Other features
The SMT-6 can tune AFM/Maf/Map signals, or lambda o2 signals. (not at the same time)

The SMT-6 can drive an extra injector.

Why would you want an SMT-6 instead of an SAFC, E-Manage, or a standalone

This is perhaps the easiest of all to answer.

SAFC’s look very pretty. Unfortunately that is the only thing they have going for them! They have low resolution of tuning. (meaning they’re not good for your N/A to turbo swap) They can not control extra injectors, nor tune accurately enough for the ECU to accept very large injectors. SAFC’s also have one function. THEY DO ONE THING for roughly the same cost as an SMT-6. Without going into the applications of using an SMT-6 look at it this way. SAFC’s can only modify one signal. An SMT-6 can run an entire i4 motor as a standalone, even with a wasted spark ignition…

E-Manage Also has poor resolution of tuning. It is between the SAFC and SMT-6 level of tuning. This creates a major problem, as the E-Manage might have greater resolution of tuning; it is only adjustable at 5 points!!! That is horrible and leads to very inaccurate results with larger than stock injectors. E-Manage is able to drive Two extra injectors to the SMT’s One extra injector. This is the ONLY advantage.
E-Manage is around the same price range as the others. However this also creates a problem. The E-Manage is able to be upgraded to drive ignition signals, and have a higher resolution of tuning. Eventually upgradeable enough to run a basic i4 motor.
Unfortunately With the amount of money that it takes for these E-Manage upgrades, you could buy a cheap stand-alone, or buy a Unichip and have it dyno tuned MORE than one time.

Stand Alones are obviously the best solution if cost is no object. Unfortunately, the rest of the world does not have months to tune every aspect of the motor so that it runs perfectly under any condition and they cost out the ass, not only to buy, but to dyno tune.

engineer in training
1,586 Posts
Good stuff, I will be installing one soon! thanks :D

4,345 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well I've been re-tuning my SMT lately to try and solve some extreme fuel problems costing me a lot of power.
Over time I had forgotten a lot of tuning information rather important.

The global setting for ignition should be in mode 10. Ignition advance/retard.
YES the distributor is a 24 tooth, 1 missing tooth, 8 teeth per firing signal, however I forgot the SMT can't replicate that well and will stall the ignition out. So DO NOT run in missing-tooth mode, as seems logical. It will fully function in mode 10.

The AFM signal on a 3vz-fe is (roughly) 0-5v. However!!! It starts at around 4.2-4.5v at idle, and LOWERS the voltage the more air comes in.
This doesn't mean anything settings wise.
When you tune it's backawards. A positive number ADDS voltage on the analog screen(leaning), a negative number SUBTRACTS voltage on the analog screen (riches).

To anyone street tuning. Tuning is live if you havn't figured it out... You can use the F keys to add/subtract by one point in either the 2D, or 3D maps on what ever cell the engine is running in.

Analog map - F1
Injector map - F2
Ignition map - F3
Analog up - F4
Analog down - F5
Injector up - F6
Injector down - F7
Ignition up - F8
Ignition down - F9

My other car is a Camry
2,318 Posts
Great write up... glad you are having fun :D

Too bad the SMT-6 will not work for the 1MZ-FE folks... Only E-manage with upgrades (ign/inj harness & CD) can work with 1MZ-FE's 6-channel ignition.

I had a nightmare with the Perfect Power PRS-8 (standalone version)... All their tech guys didn't know much about the standalone; however, they were experts on the SMT-6 though!

The SMT-6 is the ONLY product I will buy from PP....haha I bet they put all their effort and time on the SMT-6 and forgot about the rest of their product line-up :hammer: I did an SMT-6 install on a Honda with GSR swap and it was able to do what all piggybacks couldn't. Pretty amazing.

Toyota Glanza
1 Posts


Im so glad I found all this information for the SMT6, this can be understood by a 8 year old!

Been looking for something like this for a while, obviously in the wrong places.

Lets see if I can get this running.
Thank you very much..:chug:

2 Posts
Just curious if there is a way to trick the SMT to run open loop.

I tuned my WOT but wanted to get some off the line smoothness and whatever I punch in, the ECU wants to compensate and advances the shit out it causing a bog =/

Does the MAF have to be tinkered with? ?

any help would be greatly appreciated
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