Ignition components go about every year on our cars. You might want to look into replacing everything... including your plugs and wires. It is recommended by most that you just stick with the toyota ignition components... cause most people just have problems with aftermarket ones.
oh, well, am i the *&%hole??
oh, well, am i the asshole??
i have had a recent problem with my car which ends in a demolition of my distributor, the first time this happened was five or so days after getting back from MoKan, (a local dragstrip) while i was there i decide to try 2 gallons of 111 octane race gas, just for kicks, (20 psi, shouldv'e been faster though) and then left about a half gallon in when i put about 8-9 gallons of 93 in, the next day the car began to hesitate as it did when i first turned the boost up 6 months ago, (original plugs, wires, etc, etc)and three days later it wouldn't start so i had a friend help me and i tried to push start it, nothing, we then looked into the engine bay and noticed that the cap was 1/4" whort of being split completely in two, when we took it off, the rotor bug was in about 400 pieces, and the only piece still attached to the distrubutor, (which was so ate up that there were no magnets or pickups left) was the 1/16 of an inch surronding ONE of the screws that holds it on, to me it looked as if the other screw came loose, but Quality Toyota (dont trust the name) of Independence kansas, swears up and down that they didn't have to chane anything, even though i had a completely new top end installed by them,(they tried saying that it looked as if the distributoritself was faulty, even thouhg i didnt have it with me when i went to talk to them) so its my fault that it went bad, because I originally changed the cap and rotor, but i never had an hesitation until i took it in for the new head, and they...sorry, I'm ranting, let me continue with the thread........anyways, i grit my teeth (not until after i give them the finger and tell them to get fucked) and buy a new dist, cap and rotor, so i get them installed correctly, (following very careful instructions) start the car and it sont idle for shit, i have to keep the throttle open for ten minutes before it will run on its own, think to myself, i must have jumped a tooth when i, stupidly, tried to turn the engine from the intake cam, but a little advance shouldnt hurt all that much, its easily fixed, i decide to take it out for a test run, car bucks like a Pro effin rodeo horse, wont make much boost, and when you get off the throttle while in boost, the BOV is barely audible, get about ten blocks car dies, start car, running horrible, go home, tail between legs, shut car off, look at distributor and one of the plug wire towers is dislodged from cap, the culprit? a screw came loose again! how can this be!?!?! i dont know but at least it didnt ruin distributor again, i insepct the old dist, is the center wheel supposed to touch the plastic base? i was wondering if anyone has ever had this kind of priblem? could it be the TRD wires? the IRIDIUM plugs? should i use threadlocker? btw, does anyone know the resistance in ohms/foot of the TRD wires? thats it, im done, hope nobody thinks i wasted their time
i have had a recent problem with my car which ends in a demolition of my distributor, the first time this happened was five or so days after getting back from MoKan, (a local dragstrip) while i was there i decide to try 2 gallons of 111 octane race gas, just for kicks, (20 psi, shouldv'e been faster though) and then left about a half gallon in when i put about 8-9 gallons of 93 in, the next day the car began to hesitate as it did when i first turned the boost up 6 months ago, (original plugs, wires, etc, etc)and three days later it wouldn't start so i had a friend help me and i tried to push start it, nothing, we then looked into the engine bay and noticed that the cap was 1/4" whort of being split completely in two, when we took it off, the rotor bug was in about 400 pieces, and the only piece still attached to the distrubutor, (which was so ate up that there were no magnets or pickups left) was the 1/16 of an inch surronding ONE of the screws that holds it on, to me it looked as if the other screw came loose, but Quality Toyota (dont trust the name) of Independence kansas, swears up and down that they didn't have to chane anything, even though i had a completely new top end installed by them,(they tried saying that it looked as if the distributoritself was faulty, even thouhg i didnt have it with me when i went to talk to them) so its my fault that it went bad, because I originally changed the cap and rotor, but i never had an hesitation until i took it in for the new head, and they...sorry, I'm ranting, let me continue with the thread........anyways, i grit my teeth (not until after i give them the finger and tell them to get fucked) and buy a new dist, cap and rotor, so i get them installed correctly, (following very careful instructions) start the car and it sont idle for shit, i have to keep the throttle open for ten minutes before it will run on its own, think to myself, i must have jumped a tooth when i, stupidly, tried to turn the engine from the intake cam, but a little advance shouldnt hurt all that much, its easily fixed, i decide to take it out for a test run, car bucks like a Pro effin rodeo horse, wont make much boost, and when you get off the throttle while in boost, the BOV is barely audible, get about ten blocks car dies, start car, running horrible, go home, tail between legs, shut car off, look at distributor and one of the plug wire towers is dislodged from cap, the culprit? a screw came loose again! how can this be!?!?! i dont know but at least it didnt ruin distributor again, i insepct the old dist, is the center wheel supposed to touch the plastic base? i was wondering if anyone has ever had this kind of priblem? could it be the TRD wires? the IRIDIUM plugs? should i use threadlocker? btw, does anyone know the resistance in ohms/foot of the TRD wires? thats it, im done, hope nobody thinks i wasted their time
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You ran leaded fuel ... do you still have CATS?
If you have cats and ran leaded fuel ... you could have completely colgged them giving you all sorts of problems.
Leaded fuel can also damage your O2 sensor which would affect your idle and cruising conditions.
Running 110+ fuel is only a good idea if you tuned your car and set it up for it.
Running more than 93 or 94 octane is only necessary if you are experiencing knock. Running too much octane robs the car of ideal performance.
If you have cats and ran leaded fuel ... you could have completely colgged them giving you all sorts of problems.
Leaded fuel can also damage your O2 sensor which would affect your idle and cruising conditions.
Running 110+ fuel is only a good idea if you tuned your car and set it up for it.
Running more than 93 or 94 octane is only necessary if you are experiencing knock. Running too much octane robs the car of ideal performance.
jekylhyde for Moderator!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
lol ... I moderate on the MR2 board, that's plenty.
But thanks for the implied compliment
But thanks for the implied compliment
i dont run any cats, but i could have damaged the O2 sensor, but then how would the dist come loose on its own?
You asked if the "wheel" should be touching the plastic. Are you refering to the rotor? The rotor should only contact ... well, the contacts inside the cap.
I would also recommend getting rid of the Iridium plugs in a turbo MR2. There have been several cases of the tiny electrode exploding and causing damage to the valves and/or the heads of the pistons.
I would recommend getting NGK copper plugs #6097.
What year is your car? Are you using the proper distributor and wires?
91/92s are different from 93s+
I would also recommend getting rid of the Iridium plugs in a turbo MR2. There have been several cases of the tiny electrode exploding and causing damage to the valves and/or the heads of the pistons.
I would recommend getting NGK copper plugs #6097.
What year is your car? Are you using the proper distributor and wires?
91/92s are different from 93s+
mine is a 91, im sure now that i have the right cap and rotor as i got it from NAPA (hey, it works), but "Quality" may have given me the wrong pieces, about how much do the copper plugs cost?
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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