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Hello I bought my first ever Toyota car today and it is due for an oil change in 250 miles. It is a 2005 Toyota Camry 3.0l V6, what oil and filter is best for this engine? Thanks in advance.
I have been using conventional oil 5W30 all the times and my camry is now over 280,000 miles and still run very well.
 

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No mention of mileage I assume typical amounts of miles. Go full synthetic, I use Walmart Supertech 5W30 in my 01 V6 with 250K. Yours is a later model, whatever your oil cap says on it, use. NAPA's Wix filters are great, or stop at a Toyota dealer and buy several oil filters. I have in the past bought Denso filters from Rock Auto but I must had received a bad batch several started leaking after 2500 miles.
 

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It's a Camry, run the cheapest oil you can find and forget about it. Nothing special about them.

We run 10w40 (9 qts!) Federated store brand conventional oil in our race car which has a 3MZ block, same for the 1MZ before that. Same oil goes in the daily drivers too (all Toyotas, up to 280k).

Toyota oil filters for these aren't really any more than the aftermarket ones, so Toyota all the way there, although I've spun on aftermarket filters before when I didn't have a Toyota one on hand.
 

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Thank for reply.So you put on 137,000 miles with full synthetic and had no leaks other than valve cover gaskets.
I didn't really have a leak when I changed the valve cover gaskets, I'm just really fussy about maintenance. So no, I never had any problems with leaks.
 

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Talking oil and filters is like talking religion. Pick a faith. Considering the low, low temps you folks are getting these past few winters, I would drop to 0-30 or 0-20 until it warms up. You can just run 0-20 all the time, or up to 5-30 in the warm months if you like.

Of course, if you have an engine block heater, then it doesn't matter really.
 

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You can get German Castrol in 5W30 in LL-01. A little hard to find. Check you oil weight here:

0W40 is out of the recommendation range but should be ok in the summer where WI sees 80F.

How about giving Supertech Full Synthetic 5W30 and Motorcraft FL400s filter one try?


Well I just want the best for my car... I live in Central WI and temps reach below 0 in January. What weigh should I use in winter and summer? Also any trusted oil filters from you experts? Mobil 1 0W-40 I always used in my BMW E36, but just want input from fellow Toyota peeps.
 

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Thank for reply.So you put on 137,000 miles with full synthetic and had no leaks other than valve cover gaskets.
I didn't really have a leak when I changed the valve cover gaskets, I'm just really fussy about maintenance. So no, I never had any problems with leaks
 

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Look under the hood, at the oil fill cap, it will tell you what weight oil to us.
I've always used the recommended viscosity 5w30 and the vehicle does not burn any oil between the 3k mile oil changes I perform. I'm not concerned about viscosity but wondered if anyone else has experience multiple oil leaks since switching to full synthetic.
 

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I purchased a 1998 Camry 3.0 V6 brand new. I owned it for 11 years until 2009, and used Mobil 1 5W-30 since the first oil change. Per the dipstick reading, the engine never used any oil in between oil changes. No oil leaks or oil residue anywhere on the outside of the engine. My current vehicle (not a Toyota) is now 11 years old, and likewise no oil usage or leaks using Mobil 1 5W-30 EP. I change the oil every 5000-6000 miles or 1 year, which ever comes first.

The trick is to use synthetic oil from the first oil change, and to do proper engine break-in (which means do not baby the engine or run it at a constant RPM during the break-in period). I believe that Mobil 1 has a good additive package to treat the gaskets and seals to keep them from leaking.

If I owned a vehicle that was old enough, or started to use any amount of oil, I would switch to Mobil 1 High Mileage oil, maybe using a higher viscosity than I was using before. High Mileage oil has additional additives to treat the seals and gaskets on older engines. But once you switch to a High Mileage, oil the seals and gaskets will swell to prevent leaks, so you need to continue using it or else the seals will shrink back causing massive leaks. Same goes for other oil additives (which I would discourage people from using).
I'm at 230,000 miles 21 years later.I didn't use synthetic when I purchased it at 30k miles. I still do not burn any oil between 3k mile changes.I've been told not to switch when the vehicle is older because the seals could be more brittle and will leak. Problem is when I switched it didn't leak right away but many miles later. It is a dilema as to why all seals leaked when they did.
 

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I'm at 230,000 miles 21 years later.I didn't use synthetic when I purchased it at 30k miles. I still do not burn any oil between 3k mile changes.I've been told not to switch when the vehicle is older because the seals could be more brittle and will leak. Problem is when I switched it didn't leak right away but many miles later. It is a dilema as to why all seals leaked when they did.
So here is the thing:

Synth oil (these days) does not cause leaks. As the engine ages so do the seals, and they get brittle, gunk forms up in the engine, etc. When you swap the oil bases (conventional to synth) or sometimes even an oil brand (depending on the additive packages) you can sweep away (capture) the contaminants that are in the engine gunked up around the seals. This means there is now a pathway for escape, whereas prior the pathway was blocked by crap. And since there is now a bad part of the seal exposed it will leak.

It was already damaged, and was only not leaking due to excessive contaminants. As such, technically, the new oil did not cause the leak, it just exposed the problem and allowed the problem to behave in the manner it is going to, and would eventually anyway. The only way to fix old seals is to replace them. Additives in oil can help seals swell to plug gaps again, if the damage to the seals is minimal enough to allow that to compensate. But eventually you will burn more and more oil as the engine ages. Physics rules all.

The more oil you burn in the combustion chamber the more wear you place on your catalytic converter, O2 sensors, manifolds, exhaust system, things like that. The longer you burn oil, the more things you will get to replace someday, which would need replacing someday anyway, they just may fail faster. By one day, one month, one year... ??

Do you NEED to switch from conventional oil to synth? No. It's a choice based on various factors. Oil is there to lubricate, cool, and protect crucial parts, and in some engines provide a hydraulic mechanism for variable timing and such. As long as the oil does that, things work. Pick a brand, pick a blend, change it in proper intervals and never let it get too low. Stick with the viscosity the manufacturer indicates, meaning if it says 5-30 it is not a great ideal to switch to an x-50 or something like that; you want to keep in close range to that last number as that is the engine design spec needed to have a proper lube coating on some critical parts (AKA big end bearings and crankshaft).

Everything else is choice, as in yours. Lots, lots, lots of opinions out there on the "best". Just pick one, keep it at the proper level, change it properly, stick to a reasonable range on the viscosity.
 

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So here is the thing:

Synth oil (these days) does not cause leaks. As the engine ages so do the seals, and they get brittle, gunk forms up in the engine, etc. When you swap the oil bases (conventional to synth) or sometimes even an oil brand (depending on the additive packages) you can sweep away (capture) the contaminants that are in the engine gunked up around the seals. This means there is now a pathway for escape, whereas prior the pathway was blocked by crap. And since there is now a bad part of the seal exposed it will leak.

It was already damaged, and was only not leaking due to excessive contaminants. As such, technically, the new oil did not cause the leak, it just exposed the problem and allowed the problem to behave in the manner it is going to, and would eventually anyway. The only way to fix old seals is to replace them. Additives in oil can help seals swell to plug gaps again, if the damage to the seals is minimal enough to allow that to compensate. But eventually you will burn more and more oil as the engine ages. Physics rules all.

The more oil you burn in the combustion chamber the more wear you place on your catalytic converter, O2 sensors, manifolds, exhaust system, things like that. The longer you burn oil, the more things you will get to replace someday, which would need replacing someday anyway, they just may fail faster. By one day, one month, one year... ??

Do you NEED to switch from conventional oil to synth? No. It's a choice based on various factors. Oil is there to lubricate, cool, and protect crucial parts, and in some engines provide a hydraulic mechanism for variable timing and such. As long as the oil does that, things work. Pick a brand, pick a blend, change it in proper intervals and never let it get too low. Stick with the viscosity the manufacturer indicates, meaning if it says 5-30 it is not a great ideal to switch to an x-50 or something like that; you want to keep in close range to that last number as that is the engine design spec needed to have a proper lube coating on some critical parts (AKA big end bearings and crankshaft).

Everything else is choice, as in yours. Lots, lots, lots of opinions out there on the "best". Just pick one, keep it at the proper level, change it properly, stick to a reasonable range on the viscosity.
The ironic thing in my situation is that all the seals, inclusive of front and rear main seals,oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets, starting leaking at the same time. This was probably 40-50k miles after I started using 5w30 Full synthetic.
 

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The ironic thing in my situation is that all the seals, inclusive of front and rear main seals,oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets, starting leaking at the same time. This was probably 40-50k miles after I started using 5w30 Full synthetic.
Very odd. I would think something catastrophic occurred somewhere. The only thing I can picture is you had bad seals all around, and sludge formed on every exit point and sealed those leaks up. I can't recall ever hearing someone say every seal in the engine started leaking at the same time. Wild.
 

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Thanks everyone for your input, I decided to just use M1 5w30. I wish I would have used 0w20 but its whatever. There is some slight ticking that goes away while driving and is only present on a cold start or after a long drive. I figured it's the injectors or lifters, but will take ideas. Again thank you all.
 

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Ive ran 3 different synthetic oils (5w30 pennzoil, valvoline, and mobile one).
Ive also ran 3 different filters (toyota, napa plat., purolator boss)

What seems to work best with my car is Mobile one synthetic HM and purolator boss filters.

Mobile one minimizes any valvetrain noise and the boss filters well for a longer period than the toyota filter.

Car looses about 1/2 - 3/4 quart every 6400 mile oil change.

The only slight leak it has is where the oil pan meets the block at a certain point (gouge in surface area where someone pryed hard to remove the pan).

Went from conventional to synthetic when I bought it at 167k miles.
Car has 297k miles now. (live in ky)
 

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Project Farm PU testing:
This is one of the most ridiculous oil tests I have ever seen, although I have seen some other similar ones also. The tests are conducted by a complete amateur who has no idea what any of the criteria in his tests actually means.

Here are some comments on a couple of their tests in the video:

Evaporate Loss at 425 degrees Fahrenheit:

  • Automobile Engines don't operated anywhere near 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Normal engine temperature is between 195 to 220 degrees Fahrenheit.

  • I have used Mobil 1 (which apparently experienced a higher degree of evaporate loss in the 425 degree F tests compared to most others) for the last 22 years, in two different cars (11 years each). I have never seen any oil usage in-between oil changes (6,000 - 7,000 miles) for any reason whatsoever based on dipstick readings, and obviously not any usage or loss due to evaporate loss. Evaporate loss is not a factor that anyone should worry about in comparing different synthetic oils (conventional mineral oils are a different matter).
Additives:
  • Mobil 1 Annual Protection (their best motor sold in the USA) uses a base stock of nearly 100% Group IV (PAO) or Group V (Esters). Oils such as Pennzoil Ultra-Platinum are 100% Group III severely hydro-cracked natural gas. An oil made from 100% PAO and/or Esters does not need as many anti-wear or other additives as a Group III synthetic.

  • In the case of Amsoil Signature Line, they have more additives than are allowed by the API and therefor Amsoil Signature Line is not API certified. Auto manufacturers require restrictions on certain additives such as ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate), because too much ZDDP can harm emission systems and are considered toxic. Mobil 1 complies with API standards on additives, while Amsoil does not. Here is more information on ZDDP:

  • Ranking motor oil by the amount of additives put into the oil is therefore ridiculous, because some use inferior base stocks that need more additives, and some have so many additives the are not API certified and don't meet auto manufacturer warranty specifications, while some motor oil have superior base stocks and don't need as many additives.
 

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Thanks everyone for your input, I decided to just use M1 5w30. I wish I would have used 0w20 but its whatever. There is some slight ticking that goes away while driving and is only present on a cold start or after a long drive. I figured it's the injectors or lifters, but will take ideas. Again thank you all.
Good choice. If you shop at Walmart, you can get Mobil 1 5W-30 EP (extended protection) for about $2 more, which provides even better protection. The much more expensive Annual Protection is not worth it IMO.
 

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I bought a 19998 Camry V-6 in 200 with 30k miles. At 50k iI switched to full synthetic. At about 90k I experienced leaks everywhere. Both front and rear main seals, oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets. I was told full synthetic wasnt the cause. I also was told by many shops that the 1998 V-6 engines don't have these leaks even after many miles.
As much as full synthetic is great lubrication for any engine, I truly believe it was the culprit for all the leaks I experienced. I would stick with good grade of regular oil and make sure to change it every 3k miles
One thing is that you bought your car USED.

This means that you can't know what the previous owner or their mechanic may have added to the oil, for whatever purported good reason.
Likely someone intended to preclude any chance of the engine "sludging" by using one of the light-fraction hydrocarbon liquid additives, many of which contain solvents and even alcohols which can definitely soften seals and lead to premature wear or shrinkage later on.
Hard to say, but at the point when multiple engine seals start to leak, I would then try a sealing product added to the oil, as this is the only time that an oil additive should be used, unless perhaps an engine showed symptoms of deposit-related malfunction, such as a bad lifter.
Another thing is that oil left in the engine too long becomes very bad for the seals, and known to cause shrinkage and cracking leading to leaks, in addition to sludge formation.
 

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I also have a 2005 Camry V6 and in the last year ( 10K miles ) I have done my own oil changes every 5K miles

Mobil One 5W-30 5 qt jug and from reading in this forum's threads I've use the Purolator Boss oil filter. I could go longer than 5K with this filter but just knowing it does a nice job and is a quality filter is good.
 
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