[CorollaRollin98]

well im getting close to another oil change soon, and i Bought some CASTROL SYNTEC (Full Synthetic) oil 5W-30, and i bought a NAPA GOLD OIL FILTER (WIX OIL FILTER)... i was wondering if i should use synthetic oil or not, and THIS IS FOR EVERYONE TO TELL WHAT KIND OF OIL AND OIL FILTERS THEY USE, PLEASE SHARE?

THANKS,
AUSTIN

 

[mr1114]

Thats a matter of personal preference. If you have the funds and want a little added protection, go for it.

I prefer to use regular store-brand oil. It gets changed often (so there's always clean oil in the crankcase), and I dont drive under extreme conditions. I dont feel I'd benefit much from synthetic oil.

 

[Milky]

mobil 1 15w50 full synthetic year round. the trans was mobil 1 75w90, but when its all put back together it will be "the cocktail" (2 qts castrol hypox c, 1qt gm synchromesh, 1qt redline lightweight shockproof. fill to the needed level for the trans... do not use all 4 qts)

the miata also runs 15w50, but i have not changed out the rear end or trans fluid yet so god knows what it is. prolly still 19yr old oem oil.....

 

[Shawn5800]

I switched to that Castrol GT conventional 5w-30 and i swear my engine runs quieter and smoother now. I love that stuff, Plus walmart always has it on sale for $13 for the 5 quart jugs. Change it every 3000-4000 and keep it conventional. Just my .02

 

[CorollaRollin98]

nice thanks for the responces

 

[TenZen]

mobil 1 15w50 full synthetic year round. the trans was mobil 1 75w90, but when its all put back together it will be "the cocktail" (2 qts castrol hypox c, 1qt gm synchromesh, 1qt redline lightweight shockproof. fill to the needed level for the trans... do not use all 4 qts)

the miata also runs 15w50, but i have not changed out the rear end or trans fluid yet so god knows what it is. prolly still 19yr old oem oil.....

15w50? That is new to me. Wouldn't that pretty thick oil to put in?

 

[CorollaRollin98]

i would have to agree with TenZen, 15w-50 is heavy oil... i use the recommended 5w-30....

 

[Buurin]

Mobil 1 5w-30 and tall Toyota OEM filter. I can run this oil for at least 1.5 years by changing the filter only every 6 months. Blackstone Labs can (had) prove it.

 

[egibbys]

So as a new owner and not knowing what the previous owner was using what would you guys recommend? I've got pretty high mileage, 160k, so I don't know what would be the best for it. I've been using synthetic in my Jetta for years so that is normal for me.

 

[Milky]

15w50? That is new to me. Wouldn't that pretty thick oil to put in?

nope. it pours like water. you want to see a thick oil, check out a straight 50 or 60 weight. a lot of mitsi vr4 guys run that to keep their lifters pumped up and quite. and it does not break down as much as a normal 30 weight would on a twin turbo v6. but then again i guess you all missed where i said it was in my miata.

i have run 15w50 for quite some time. it is an awesome oil. it resists carbon buildup better than most of the other oils i have run. simply because it is designed to be ran in high performance vehicles. the oil is designed to deal with engine that can be run hard for long periods of time, or can generate excessive amounts of heat or carbon. much like a turbocharged or supercharged engine would. i usually go about 6-8k on it and then change it. i used this in my old s13 and ran it for 12-15k intervals with no problem. so i trust this stuff.

 

[dorman68]

I have been using which ever name brand dino oil thats on sale at Advance, Auto Zone or PeP Boys (Valvoline, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Castrol etc...), most of the time the special includes a purolator classic filter. I have owned the car since 10,000 miles and never had any issues, car runs perfect, quiet, and uses no oil.

 

[PhatRoyale]

If you guys can locate it, then Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic is good stuff, it has an additive package to help condition seals and is synthetic to prevent further wear, in other words, it offers the best of both worlds.

I myself use German Castrol Syntech 0W30 + Wix Filter. Engine runs butter smooth on it.

 

[mr1114]

Is there any actual proof that some of the cheap, no-brand oil is "recycled" stuff?

 

[teppista881]

I second PhatRoyale's recommendation of Valvoline MaxLife. I switched to MaxLife high mileage synthetic blend (not full synthetic) 6 months ago and it reduced my oil consumption by 200-300%. I am a little bit leery of switching over to full synthetic in case it cleans out too much gunk, but I may try it nevertheless.

I'm putting Valvoline MaxLife auto trans fluid in on the next drain and refill, too.

I use a Wix or Purolator PureOne filter (if it comes in a deal at the box stores).

In my SUV I switched to Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic from Toyota conventional at 45,000 miles. Now it's over 60k and the oil does a great job. I have some German Castrol 0w-30 sitting in the garage and can't decide whether to put it in the Prizm or SUV. This is also a great oil.

 

[mr1114]

So as a new owner and not knowing what the previous owner was using what would you guys recommend? I've got pretty high mileage, 160k, so I don't know what would be the best for it. I've been using synthetic in my Jetta for years so that is normal for me.

If it burns oil I would use regular. If it doesnt, either one is fine.

I dont think I'd benefit much from using synthetic oil. I rather change it often and use regular. I also tend to not keep my cars long enough to really be that concerned about what oil to use.

If there's any actual proof that store-brand oil is junk, then I will move up to name brand stuff, but it will still be regular non-synthetic.

 

[TenZen]

nope. it pours like water. you want to see a thick oil, check out a straight 50 or 60 weight. a lot of mitsi vr4 guys run that to keep their lifters pumped up and quite. and it does not break down as much as a normal 30 weight would on a twin turbo v6. but then again i guess you all missed where i said it was in my miata.

i have run 15w50 for quite some time. it is an awesome oil. it resists carbon buildup better than most of the other oils i have run. simply because it is designed to be ran in high performance vehicles. the oil is designed to deal with engine that can be run hard for long periods of time, or can generate excessive amounts of heat or carbon. much like a turbocharged or supercharged engine would. i usually go about 6-8k on it and then change it. i used this in my old s13 and ran it for 12-15k intervals with no problem. so i trust this stuff.

It didn't say you put it in just your Miata, so it sounds does like your have it in the Corolla and Miata.

 

[Milky]

It didn't say you put it in just your Miata, so it sounds does like your have it in the Corolla and Miata.

well yes it was in the corolla. and will be going back in the corolla after the new engine break in.


also, as for the no name oils being junk, not all of them are. oils have service classes that are set and determined by the american petroleum institute or API for short. they break oil down in to classes based on performance characteristics for each oil in either service (s) or commercial (c) use. the higher the letter designation (alphabetically) the better the oil is. plain and simple. one of the biggest differences between ratings is the drop in zinc per rating level, which is really needed for older vehicles, but newer and more modern vehicles (1985+) do not need this additive.

ex: most royal purple motor oils have a API-SJ rating. while this seems good, compaired to mobil 1's API-SM rating it is a poor performing oil. hell even the el cheapo crap walmart brand oil has a API-SM rating.

walmart oil > royal purple.

 

[PhatRoyale]

well yes it was in the corolla. and will be going back in the corolla after the new engine break in.


also, as for the no name oils being junk, not all of them are. oils have service classes that are set and determined by the american petroleum institute or API for short. they break oil down in to classes based on performance characteristics for each oil in either service (s) or commercial (c) use. the higher the letter designation (alphabetically) the better the oil is. plain and simple. one of the biggest differences between ratings is the drop in zinc per rating level, which is really needed for older vehicles, but newer and more modern vehicles (1985+) do not need this additive.

ex: most royal purple motor oils have a API-SJ rating. while this seems good, compaired to mobil 1's API-SM rating it is a poor performing oil. hell even the el cheapo crap walmart brand oil has a API-SM rating.

walmart oil > royal purple.

+1

I've always thought of Royal Purple to be more hype than actual substance. Apparently there were some used oil analysis tests that produced abysmal results over on BITOG. I'll never run that stuff in my car.

 

[CorollaRollin98]

well i see oil brand is a touchy subject for every one. but i like all the feed back that everyone is giving... awesome..
IF YOU GO TO YOUTUBE, YOU CAN SEE OIL COMPARISONS, IN EXTREME CONDITIONS... LIKE -50 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT... AND TO SEE WHICH OIL POURS OUT THE FASTEST... AND MOST OILS HAVE WAX IN THEM, SO IN COLDER CONDITIONS THE WAX CLUMPS UP...

THANKS FOR THE REPLYS,
austin

 

[Milky]

+1

I've always thought of Royal Purple to be more hype than actual substance. Apparently there were some used oil analysis tests that produced abysmal results over on BITOG. I'll never run that stuff in my car.

i have heard horror stories of people using royal purple and it breaking down at high rpm leading to engine failure. in most of the stories the people were using it in nissans vq35de in a g35/350z. a few of them were honda's b series. it seems like the oil dislikes anything that can rev past 7k to me. ill never use it simply because of its poor ratings. mobil 1 all the way here.