Thanks, I'll be using 10w-30, I didn't know if there was a really good additive to go along with it.You have 2 causes for oil consumption.
1. Does it puff grey smoke out when you step on gas pedal? If yes, then it's valve stem seals and engine head job.
2. Does not puff out smoke but eats oil. Caked piston rings and oil channels in pistons. That is pistons replacement or, at least, attempts to remove carbon deposits from pistons and rings. Various ways of doing that without engine head removal, do at your own decision.
As interim measure, switch to higher weight oil. That being 10W30. You always want to have oil with the lowest difference between the 2 numbers. Adding Lucas also helps some. But it's all postponing open heart surgery.
Eventually, Toyota came up with better pistons and rings.
Problem is in pistons design - they are too shallow and do not prevent heat from getting to rings and caking oil on them. G'ol TALL pistons did not have than problem.
Thanks ukrkoz, i may try the seafoam , this car has to last my daughter a yearLucas.
You, of course, could aggressively Seafoam engine. Do 2 cans into oil, drive for a week or so, drain oil, put some cheap oil in and another 2 cans of Seafoam, drive for a week, then do formal drain and filter oil change.
This MAY decarbonize some of the buildup on rings/valves/pistons.
Thing about going heavier oil is it's pretty much last resort before car sale. As VVT-i is designed for a different oil viscosity plus, heavier oil tends to stay in thinner passages for longer=higher chance of plugging them.
after driven 3,000 miles mixed with a 1/2 bottle of MMO , i've done another piston soaking with berryman b12, poured 4oz in each cylinder, #2 piston never drained overnight, and #1, #3, #4, has drained down to sump, recovered about 3 and 1/4 qt of used oil back after an oil changeBronzemaxell i would say your #2&3 pistons/cylinders are good, it shouldn't leak down in a few hours. I'd do a compression test to see what the differences are