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Use a high mileage oil that has "seal swellers", inch up a grade (go to 5-30 if using 5-20). Other than that all you can do is a top end rebuild (if it is valve stems) or a good old fashioned rebuild to replace the pistons if it is burning due to piston. All engines will wear and start burning oil at an increased rate. Good thing about the 4 cylinder is the engine is pretty easy to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks SF Camry, I know most all the 4 cyl burn excessive amounts of oil once they get 150k plus, i was just wondering if anyone found a silver bullet lol
 

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Sadly no silver bullets. Worn seals can get a breath of fresh air with the high mileage oil variants. Some folks have stated going to 5-30 (when they were using 5-20 or 0-20) helped a little. Being a 2003 you are probably already at 5-30. Keep your eye on the level, checking regularly, just in case it eats it up faster than anticipated.
 

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You have 2 causes for oil consumption.
1. Does it puff grey smoke out when you step on gas pedal? If yes, then it's valve stem seals and engine head job.
2. Does not puff out smoke but eats oil. Caked piston rings and oil channels in pistons. That is pistons replacement or, at least, attempts to remove carbon deposits from pistons and rings. Various ways of doing that without engine head removal, do at your own decision.
As interim measure, switch to higher weight oil. That being 10W30. You always want to have oil with the lowest difference between the 2 numbers. Adding Lucas also helps some. But it's all postponing open heart surgery.
Eventually, Toyota came up with better pistons and rings.
Problem is in pistons design - they are too shallow and do not prevent heat from getting to rings and caking oil on them. G'ol TALL pistons did not have than problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You have 2 causes for oil consumption.
1. Does it puff grey smoke out when you step on gas pedal? If yes, then it's valve stem seals and engine head job.
2. Does not puff out smoke but eats oil. Caked piston rings and oil channels in pistons. That is pistons replacement or, at least, attempts to remove carbon deposits from pistons and rings. Various ways of doing that without engine head removal, do at your own decision.
As interim measure, switch to higher weight oil. That being 10W30. You always want to have oil with the lowest difference between the 2 numbers. Adding Lucas also helps some. But it's all postponing open heart surgery.
Eventually, Toyota came up with better pistons and rings.
Problem is in pistons design - they are too shallow and do not prevent heat from getting to rings and caking oil on them. G'ol TALL pistons did not have than problem.
Thanks, I'll be using 10w-30, I didn't know if there was a really good additive to go along with it.
 

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Lucas.
You, of course, could aggressively Seafoam engine. Do 2 cans into oil, drive for a week or so, drain oil, put some cheap oil in and another 2 cans of Seafoam, drive for a week, then do formal drain and filter oil change.
This MAY decarbonize some of the buildup on rings/valves/pistons.
Thing about going heavier oil is it's pretty much last resort before car sale. As VVT-i is designed for a different oil viscosity plus, heavier oil tends to stay in thinner passages for longer=higher chance of plugging them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lucas.
You, of course, could aggressively Seafoam engine. Do 2 cans into oil, drive for a week or so, drain oil, put some cheap oil in and another 2 cans of Seafoam, drive for a week, then do formal drain and filter oil change.
This MAY decarbonize some of the buildup on rings/valves/pistons.
Thing about going heavier oil is it's pretty much last resort before car sale. As VVT-i is designed for a different oil viscosity plus, heavier oil tends to stay in thinner passages for longer=higher chance of plugging them.
Thanks ukrkoz, i may try the seafoam , this car has to last my daughter a year
 

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I also have an 02 2azfe oil burner, what I have done was 2 can of seafoam in crankcase and ran for 15 minutes at idle only, and then did an oil change immediately. What I found, mmo only 1/2 the price of seafoam, and 2x the amount, i also poured 16oz of mmo in crank case after oil change, and let the mmo does its slow magic, has been 2k miles now and the dipstick is still beyond full.

I also DIYed the valve stem seals, that took care of puffing blue cloud in the morning, and now I also pour 4 to 6 oz of mmo in gas tank before refill, and I feel like I have rejuvenated my oil burner.
 

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I forgot to add, since the az engine is so easy to remove the spark plugs, I did soak the piston twice for a few days, first time with seafoam, 2nd time with mmo a week or two later, I am scratching my head about the piston soaking with mmo, both two inner piston collects the mmo and won't drain even overnight, but two outer piston emptied in 3 or 4 hours. I did turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, remove splash guard and turn the crank bolt without jacking up car and remove passenger side front wheel, and make sure all piston are even in height, and also rotate the crank periodically as I top off piston again.

What I don't understand is, when mmo drained down from piston, is that mean the piston rings are not clogged, allows the fluid to leaked down through ring gap? Or the oil control rings are stuck, won't expand to sweep the oil back

Or my other two pistons situation, is that because the ring are completely clogged, won't mmo to leak down? Or they are not clogged or stuck, and creating a good working seal?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bronzemaxell i would say your #2&3 pistons/cylinders are good, it shouldn't leak down in a few hours. I'd do a compression test to see what the differences are
 

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have you changed pcv? I know on the older nissans that burned oil, the pcv was part of issue but was in a very hard place to replace. Its quite easy on the camry and may help.
 

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It has been replaced, well, its not oe anyways. I guess i should take it out and take a look at it. Thanks for the input!!
 

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Bronzemaxell i would say your #2&3 pistons/cylinders are good, it shouldn't leak down in a few hours. I'd do a compression test to see what the differences are
after driven 3,000 miles mixed with a 1/2 bottle of MMO , i've done another piston soaking with berryman b12, poured 4oz in each cylinder, #2 piston never drained overnight, and #1, #3, #4, has drained down to sump, recovered about 3 and 1/4 qt of used oil back after an oil change
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That’s pretty good. After 3 sea foam treatments I’ve slowed it down but still not happy with it. I’m doing pcv, air filter and plugs today. Hoping the pcv helps
 
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