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Discussion Starter #1
What's Toyota recommendation on Oil Change 3k or 5k.

Lots of stop and go driving around.
 

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'07 Avalon Limited
'07 Avalon Ltd
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The recommended interval is 5,000. Says so in the owner's manual. My dealership recommends it as well. I'm running synthetic blend oil that has a longer life than dino-oil.
 

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'07 Avalon Limited
'07 Avalon Ltd
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...and less engine moving parts for more displacement and less friction.
I'm not entirely sure I agree with that. These engines are 4-valve per cylinder with variable valve timing and a ton of emissions parts. What I really don't understand is less moving parts equaling more displacement and less friction - how is that possible?

Help me understand that please...
 

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Drop your own oil at 3k and at a 5k interval and look at the difference. I will go over the 3k mark here and there with no worries, but if you choose to run it to 5k, be faithfull at that interval.
 

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I'm not entirely sure I agree with that. These engines are 4-valve per cylinder with variable valve timing and a ton of emissions parts. What I really don't understand is less moving parts equaling more displacement and less friction - how is that possible?

Help me understand that please...

In very simple terms friction is the negative force that results from a positive force that exists between moving objects when in contact. Friction is a subtraction from a forward momentum. If you eliminate friction, an object in motion will remain in motion forever unless is it acted upon by an external force. (Think of outer space; there is not friction out there).

In the case of an engine, one way to reduce friction is to have less contact between moving parts (this can be achieved by different approaches, one of them by having fewer parts). And having less friction means more displacement for your buck because there is less resistance between moving parts and more horsepower available for your vehicle thrust. I can assure you that by just playing a little bit with some of the engine plumbing layouts, you can have more horsepower w/o increasing fuel consumption.

Do you think that a mere oil filter element does this trick? There are way too many variables involved, and I can also assure you that many of these variables are manufacturer’s secrets.

Oh, to give you some hints you can re-configure the O.H. cams to be leaner & have fewer lifters. This approach woulc also change the configuration of the cylinder valves and their related parts. One can have fewer rings, seals, passage way for oil delivery (this can be achieved by having engine block and part material that have much better heat transfer coefficients hence having the oil exposed to lower than normal engine temperature….

…do you want me to continue?

Amaury
’08 Limited (with all the bells and whistle and then more)
 

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Tom, forgot to tell you one more thing:

The rated horsepower in a vehicle it is not just for moving the vehicle from A to B.

From that horsepower one has to minus the engine's internal parts (they need power just for them to move), the vehicle's weight, friction from the road and friction from the air (drag), etc.

Amaury
'08 Limited
 

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'07 Avalon Limited
'07 Avalon Ltd
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Yeah - I get that. What I'm referring to in my question is how fewer moving parts equate to more displacement. Sorry - don't buy that line. Displacement is a function of bore and stroke - not a tally of parts.

...but then again - just how does that affect the muffler bearings and their ability to smooth out sound?
 

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Yeah - I get that. What I'm referring to in my question is how fewer moving parts equate to more displacement. Sorry - don't buy that line. Displacement is a function of bore and stroke - not a tally of parts.

...but then again - just how does that affect the muffler bearings and their ability to smooth out sound?
For an internal combustion engine, bore, stroke and other parameters are a function of horsepower. Displacement is more related to horsepower, vehicle mass (including everything in it) and friction. The only thing that slow down and eventually stops a car coasting, say, on flat ground is FRICTION my friend; that is, friction between the tires and ground and friction between the vehicle volume (including tires) and the body of fluid in which it is submerged, in this case AIR (aerodynamic drag). The other side of the coin should tell me that if friction is removed, then the car will continue moving forever (the road being infinitively long)

Again, the less friction there is in motion the less energy you need to keep that motion, or, thinking of it a bit differently, the more motion you get because there is less resistance to it.

Of course, muffler and its parts plays a role on horsepower production because if you don't do the layout well you're gonna get way more than desirable back pressure affecting the displacement (or stroke) of the pistons.

Amaury
'08 Limited (lots of salsa and merengue)
 

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'07 Avalon Limited
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This thread started out about the frequency of oil changes and now you're lecturing about tire friction and customized exhaust systems creating too much back pressure.

Okay... Thanks for the info. You sound very smart.
 

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My first reply to this thread was a very short one and specific. Please remember that you were the one who asked me for help to understand why I said what I said in that first statement.

I joined this forum not to be smarter than or lecture anyone but for knowledge, since mine is not absolute.

Amaury
’08 Limited
 

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Discussion Starter #19
post got hijacked to a different topic
 

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Oil Change Interval-- back to the original subject

This thread, like many others in the Avalon forum (not all mind you) are full of hooey. Oil change intervals are a function of operating conditions (start/stops/type of driving/air quality (desert sand and dirt/volcanic ash), etc. If you drive an average speed of over 45, you could go very far on a good synthetic-- in excess of 10K miles. If you want real interval information, you should use a good oil spec analyzer and set your interval based upon the rate of contamination buildup and additive degradation.

If you want opinion-- and that is all this is--- if you drive around town alot and have a lot of starts and stops, just change it often-- 3K miles. If you drive on the highway all of the time-- go for 10K.


This thread started out about the frequency of oil changes and now you're lecturing about tire friction and customized exhaust systems creating too much back pressure.

Okay... Thanks for the info. You sound very smart.
 
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