[pllacuna]

:smile: Hi:

My 1994 LE Camry, 4 cylinders, is leaking oil from the base of the oil cooler. I have searched my Haynes manual (has no info) and the web (found sketchy instructions). I have not worked on cars before, but am mechanically inclined and am a fast learner.

Where can I find the procedures to remove the oil cooler to replace the O-ring and other sealing items that are in this part? (hoping that bleeding the coolant is not necessary)

Any suggestions of what else should be replaced when the seals are bad?

Thanks!

 

[BMR]

Some info in this thread...

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...1997-2001/331603-diy-engine-oil-cooler-2.html

 

[Cressidaadr]

If anyone has replaced those two O rings on the oil cooler, can you lift the cooler body out and away enough from the engine (after removing the large center bolt) without having to remove the two water hoses that connect on the right side?

If so, I imagine you will not be able to see the small O ring so wonder if one can locate and replace it by feel or just how people are replacing these two seals? Anyone with experience please chime in. I've searched the threads and haven't found much detail on the job and what to watch for.

 

[Bitter]

Be sure to use some scotch bright cloth (or a scrubby dish sponge) with some carb cleaner to scrub the sealing surfaces clean before the new o-ring goes on!

 

[dc_98_cam]

$.02 ...pre-lube the new O-rings with clean oil to prevent binding, twisting.

 

[Stillrunning]

can you lift the cooler body out and away enough from the engine (after removing the large center bolt) without having to remove the two water hoses that connect on the right side?

Not if you expect to do a proper job. I attempted that, but in the end, struggled to remove the hoses. A hose removal tool(s) is essential.

Lyle: 47900, OTC 452

 

[Men in Black]

I'd bypass the thing entirely and install an oil to air cooler. That will take the oil heat load off the cooling system.

 

[Bitter]

If he lives in a predominately hot climate that would be fine, but up north it helps to heat the oil since the coolant heats faster than the oil so it runs easier and warms to working temp faster in the extreme cold. Also placing an air to oil cooler up front where it'll work is also placing it where it's prone to impact and collision damage. I'd like to keep the engine oil in the engine myself. Even OEM heavy duty vehicles use coolant to oil cooling, it's fine for the Camry too and safest where it's mounted.

 

[Cressidaadr]

If anyone has replaced those two O rings on the oil cooler, can you lift the cooler body out and away enough from the engine (after removing the large center bolt) without having to remove the two water hoses that connect on the right side?

If so, I imagine you will not be able to see the small O ring so wonder if one can locate and replace it by feel or just how people are replacing these two seals? Anyone with experience please chime in. I've searched the threads and haven't found much detail on the job and what to watch for.

I purchased the two gaskets at the local dealership and replaced them today. Here is what I can now add to this discussion.

I found a thread where someone mentioned that they were able to flip the cooler body and replace the seals without removing the coolant hoses. He said it "Takes some careful maneuvering, I had it done in 20 minutes. Remember that there is a 10mm nut holding the cooler to the engine block that must be removed too."

I was able to replace the gaskets without removing the coolant lines and I would agree with the time estimate of about 20 minutes.

My large gasket came off in one piece. I used a small pick to catch and lift the gasket about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way around, then I was able to grasp it with my fingers and pull it the rest of the way out.

My Camry did not have the smaller gasket but I went ahead and installed it anyway by just putting it on to the end of the large shaft bolt right as I was ready to thread it back onto the block.

If you are going to do this job without taking off the coolant lines, then my recommendation would be to have very good lighting and one or two different size mirrors. You can flip the unit up about 75 degrees - enough that you can see most of the large gasket but not all of it at one time. That is where the mirrors and good source of light come in.

When you replace the large gasket(seal), there are some small lips that basically hold it in place so you have to get it under all of those lips for proper positioning. I was able to use my fingers to push it under all but about two of the lips and that is where I used the mirror and small screw driver to get the seal under the last one or two.

I didn't remember if I was suppose to lube the gasket before installation (I didn't) but would recommend the gasket be lubed with oil like you do a new oil filter gasket to prevent binding when you torque it to the 58 ft. lbs.

I should also mention that I did not remove anything else except for the oil dip stick so it would not be in the way. I put a bit of aluminum foil over the top of the dip stick tube to keep out any debris. I did hit my hand on the too warm exhaust pipe a few times anic: so don't try this job until your engine has cooled.

 

[gaijin666]

Is there one TN page that features all these fantastic, DIY photo spreads..?

 

[BMR]

There's a thread stickied at the top of this forum page with links to tons of DIY threads: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...camry-diy-general-information-faq-thread.html

Most of the forums here on TN have one like that.

 

[selig97]

I purchased the two gaskets at the local dealership and replaced them today. Here is what I can now add to this discussion.

My Camry did not have the smaller gasket but I went ahead and installed it anyway by just putting it on to the end of the large shaft bolt right as I was ready to thread it back onto the block.

Hi, I did this job last year on a 93 Camry. The Camry isn't driven often so it took me a couple of weeks to complete this job. Mainly because I started and then when I got to the water pipes I couldn't get the hoses off the cooler. Had to go to eBay to buy some hose unpick tools.

In regard to the small gasket, it doesn't just go on the bolt shaft, it needs also to be fitted into place on the bottom of the oil cooler. Left on the bolt shaft, it doesn't actually do anything. It took me a while to work this out from the picture and actually finding the gasket on the oil cooler. It also fits in behind some extended lips. If you were looking for it to be loose when you removed the centre bolt maybe the reason you thought it might not have been there. It is clipped in place on the base of the cooler.

And yes, this meant I had to replace the coolant, another learning exercise about coolants. Ended up just buying Toyota product, too many choices at the local Parts shop.

Probably late feedback since you have already done the job.