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I've recently bought a '16 Camry 4 cyl, and just changed the oil for the first time. I hate the current style of reuseable filter housing, I've dealt with them since my daughter got her '09 Rav4. Anyway, this one was so tight I almost didn't get it off. It took a 1/2" impact at 100 psi with a socket on the base of my filter housing wrench, and it took a while for it to start to loosen before it came off. We bought this car from a Toyota dealer, and I suspect they are the ones that changed it before me. Is it normal to tighten these things so tight? I admit that I've always had some leakage from the one on my daughter's vehicle. Do I need to be using an impact to tighten these things?
 

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I've recently bought a '16 Camry 4 cyl, and just changed the oil for the first time. I hate the current style of reuseable filter housing, I've dealt with them since my daughter got her '09 Rav4. Anyway, this one was so tight I almost didn't get it off. It took a 1/2" impact at 100 psi with a socket on the base of my filter housing wrench, and it took a while for it to start to loosen before it came off. We bought this car from a Toyota dealer, and I suspect they are the ones that changed it before me. Is it normal to tighten these things so tight? I admit that I've always had some leakage from the one on my daughter's vehicle. Do I need to be using an impact to tighten these things?
If you want to make sure it is impact tight, go for it. I would just make sure it is good and tight.
 

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Yeah I just changed the oil in our 2017 for the first time after the warranty passed. That bugger was tight from the dealer that has done them in the past. I didn't put it back nearly as tight. Any aftermarket or old style I can swap it out for?
 

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I’ve always wondered how these housings can be “overtightened”. When I tighten it with a 1/2” ratchet, I probably muscle it more than is necessary, but regardless, it comes to an absolute stop. When that thick plastic lip contacts the aluminum, it doesn’t budge.
 

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Factory manual says filter housing should be tightened to 18 foot lbs of torque = moderately more than hand tight.

Older Camry spin on filters had a 13 foot lb tightening spec.
 

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Surely it only needs to be tight enough to stop leaks.. do the 4 cyl ones have an ‘O’ ring that comes with each new filter?
 

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The oring seals the housing. The filter tightness doesn't. Tighten it until it stops. Yes, it simply stops as mentioned already.

Goes to show that techs at dealer quicklubes are still over-tightening filters, stripping drain-plugs, adding incorrect oil refill amounts,..... and numerous other complaints posted in these forums regularly.

If you want it done right, you DIY.

BTW, when installing the filter, you need to oil the o-rings. Dry o-rings could cause install/removal difficulty, o-ring damage, leaks...
 

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Oil pressure at filter is meaningless.

Engine oil pressure, at oil pressure switch, from some factory manuals:

5w30 hot oil pressure on a 2gr-fe V6 is >11.5psi at idle and >55.5psi at 6000rpm


2ar-fe ... >4.4psi or more at idle and >38psi @4000rpm
 

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I purchased my used Camry from a dealer, they did the oil change before selling it to me. When I went to do the next oil change myself the housing was on so tight that the little "ears" broke off and the remainder of the oil in it came spilling out (even though I tried to use the pop in drainer widget). After some choice cursewords and some extra pipe on the breaker bar and being extra careful that the removal tool was still engaging the other "ears" I was able to remove it.

Once I got it off, I had to get a replacement at an autoparts store. They had a replacement in aluminum as well as plastic. I choose the aluminum one, but neither was OEM. They said it's really common and to make sure you oil the threads and o-ring. Also clean the threads very well - that sometimes they get stuck because of debris on the threads.

Like others I think the dealer techs overtighten them. They already overcharge for the service, but I think if it's difficult for owners to do it themselves they will continue to take the car into the dealerships and if once in a while they break a cap themselves they are still profiting in the long run.

At least now I know I'm really not the only one that had this problem.
 

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Read up a bit on it last night. Some people think it's thermocycling of the plastic oil cap. Guess Ill see if it's hard to remove next oil change. If it is, I'll order this metal housing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BHP68A
Not too sure what that is even after googling it but can I assume it is what I am thinking? Perhaps the plastic is shrinking or something making it harder to remove it? Honestly, for I sorta doubt anyone is impacting it (at least not many) because unless you impact the normal oil filter too... Don't see a reason to not hand tighten the oil filter housing like you would with just a oil filter.
 

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Like others I think the dealer techs overtighten them. They already overcharge for the service, but I think if it's difficult for owners to do it themselves they will continue to take the car into the dealerships and if once in a while they break a cap themselves they are still profiting in the long run.
That is common across the entire oil change industry.

It happened to me at a quick lube shop about 35 years ago on the drain plug. I could not get it off, so I had to go back to the oil change shop that did the previous change, and I asked the tech to not over-tighten it this time. At that point, I could see him (in the pit) tightening it so hard the car was shaking.

So when I needed my next oil change, I had to go back to the same oil change place again (with my receipt in hand from the previous oil change), and they had to use an impact driver to chisel the drain plug off. Fortunately, I brought a new drain plug with me that they had to use afterward, since the old one was severely mangled by the time they got it off.
 

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This has been an avalanche of owners complaining of the OEM housing being impossible to remove.
I do not believe, finally, wrench hands at dealerships or oil places do over tighten them with impact tools or else. They are usually pretty good about doing as the book says.

I think, that housing simply swells inside. The way it is designed, its upper edge simply stops at the flare in engine block and you can't really turn it in any more to "over tighten". Hence, it has to be something else, causing this continuous issue. I experienced it myself and both times - ONLY with OEM plastic housing. After I had them both replaced with Dorman aluminum ones, I had no issues. Of course, I have special socket to fit those housings. But I hand tightened them in place and, normally, they loosened either by hand or with mild effort on the socket wrench.
 

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I hand tighten mine. Same procedure as above re o-ring and thread oiling. I've never had any leakage. But I still need a filter tool to remove.

I used socket (17mm?) and breaker bar (carefully) on original/dealer installed housing.
 

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An older Toyota mechanic told me once that he thought Toyota used Sumo wrestlers to tighten the nut and bolts at their Japanese plants. Maybe they brought some of those guys over to the Georgetown KY plant to carry on the tradition.
 

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I've recently bought a '16 Camry 4 cyl, and just changed the oil for the first time. I hate the current style of reuseable filter housing, I've dealt with them since my daughter got her '09 Rav4. Anyway, this one was so tight I almost didn't get it off. It took a 1/2" impact at 100 psi with a socket on the base of my filter housing wrench, and it took a while for it to start to loosen before it came off. We bought this car from a Toyota dealer, and I suspect they are the ones that changed it before me. Is it normal to tighten these things so tight? I admit that I've always had some leakage from the one on my daughter's vehicle. Do I need to be using an impact to tighten these things?
Unfortunately, it IS common at dealers and oil change places, but it is NOT correct and can and will damage the mount.
18ft lbs is all it takes. It does not seal from torque... the o-ring seals as soon as it disappears behind the lip.
Once the edge of the housing makes contact, it only needs to go far enough to engage the spring clip behind one of the wings.


I'd raise holy hell with the dealer if mine were that tight.
 

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I was trying to find the spec for oil filter torque. How did you determine that it is 13 ft.lbs.? (Yes I have an older Camry). The manual says to tighten 3/4 turn past where the gasket makes contact which is what I did on my last oil change.
 
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