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As I am typing now, I am facing to my beautiful camry that i cannot ride because of a leak that comes from one spot for the 2nd time of gasket replacement. Any idea that why the oil leaks only by the crank pulley area? I tried to seal it with rtv and honda bond but still the outcome was useless. Also I didn't tighten the bolts too much before I start the car, but once I saw the leak, I knocked the sh*t out of them where the leak at.
 

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That fluid on the ground is green. Does it have green coolant in it?
 

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Also I didn't tighten the bolts too much before I start the car, but once I saw the leak, I knocked the sh*t out of them where the leak at.
Oil pan bolts too loose can cause leak. Oil pan bolts too tight can cause leaks (and can damage the pan).
 

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Toyota doesn’t use a gasket. Just sealant. And in my opinion, those pressed cork particle gasket are garbage. I’d redo it with just sealant.
 

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To use the UV dye, clean the area thoroughly, then add the dye. Then run it just a little and check.. Running it a lot just blows the dye/oil around and the leak appears to be from everywhere.
 

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How much does it leak? I have had a leaky oil pan seal area for years. It leaks about 1QT/3,000 oil change interval. I have looked at what needs to be done to get the pan off and just decided to put a drip mat under the car and live with it. Maybe that improper gasket in there makes yours worse.
 

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Oil pan bolts too loose can cause leak. Oil pan bolts too tight can cause leaks (and can damage the pan).
Yep. The cork gasket throws off the torque specs as well. The torque specs set by Toyota were meant for the FIPG sealant, not a traditional gasket.

Toyota doesn’t use a gasket. Just sealant. And in my opinion, those pressed cork particle gasket are garbage. I’d redo it with just sealant.
^^THAT!^^

- this ^
- redo gasket
- set overnight
- don't under or over torque pan bolts
- be SURE the leak is from the pan

.
^^That too^^ I like to set it overnight as well, but technically not necessary according to the FIPG makers. Won't hurt to let it cure for a while.

Maybe that improper gasket in there makes yours worse.
I don't like the traditional gasket for this particular application as it wasn't designed for that.

I've seen several videos with this particular mechanic. He is very well spoken and intelligent and does a good job. I like how he even states the small mistake he made and how to resolve it. The Toyota specs in the repair manual lay out a different technique to apply the sealant than he uses here. According to the Toyota manual, you apply the sealant in a particular size bead and don't smear it smooth like how he does in the video. I did notice, though, that a YouTube repair shop in Taiwan also does it the way he does it, so there must be something to that. Toyota also uses the black FIPG, but I notice this guy and also the Taiwanese shop use the grey stuff, so there is perhaps something to that as well, but I always thought the black "oil resistant" FIPG was the only way to go. Whatever.

I've done this job without moving the exhaust out of the way. My recommendation is to move it like in this video. It makes it much easier to fit the pan on. My way was a pain.
 

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Take the pan back off. Clean all that goo off of it. BTW NEVER use that blue silicone or, orange silicone for anything!!!
Get a tube of Toyota pan sealant. Don't use too much .Do not use a gasket.
Looks like something amiss in your photo -yellow circle-
You could be leaking from oil pimp -orange arrow-
 

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The bolts are too small to actually seal a non adhesive gasket between the pan and the block; they can't make enough torque and you run the danger of snapping a couple trying.

All the bolts are designed to do is hold the pan against the FIPG on the block until it cures...
A good clean job with the FIPG and you could take off the bolts and the pan wouldn't go anywhere!*

* leave them on anyway ;)
 

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The bolts are too small to actually seal a non adhesive gasket between the pan and the block; they can't make enough torque and you run the danger of snapping a couple trying.

All the bolts are designed to do is hold the pan against the FIPG on the block until it cures...
A good clean job with the FIPG and you could take off the bolts and the pan wouldn't go anywhere!*

* leave them on anyway ;)
^ very true!

















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You could be leaking from oil pimp -orange arrow-
Yeah, trying to shove RTV in there would not work. What's all that other stuff?

The bolts are too small to actually seal a non adhesive gasket between the pan and the block; they can't make enough torque and you run the danger of snapping a couple trying.

All the bolts are designed to do is hold the pan against the FIPG on the block until it cures...
A good clean job with the FIPG and you could take off the bolts and the pan wouldn't go anywhere!*

* leave them on anyway ;)
Yep! I know this because I did it once with a dumb gasket. Had to redo it with FIPG.
 

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If the leak is from the car on your profile, I'd bet your oil pump O ring is leaking. It's a little harder to replace than the oil pan gasket in that you have to remove the timing belt before you can remove the oil pump cover. The pump shaft seal, crank and cam seals, water pump, timing belt and tensioner spring probably also need to be replaced while you are in there. While it's a big job its not particularly hard to do. INMO the hardest part is using a mirror to look through the hole in the top of the cam gear to see the timing mark. Getting the crank bolt out can also be a pain if you dont have air tools.



If you haven't already done so, you should try a high mileage oil. It contains an agent that softens and swells the seals, reducing and possibly eliminating the leak. Be sure to pull the PCV valve out of the valve cover and clean it out frequently - like every at every oil change My Camrys definitely prefer Valvoline Maxlife. My 93 5SFE engine and auto trans have not been rebuilt or even had a serious repair. And its now at 442,000 miles... And no, I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't seen it. It just keeps going.
 

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Keep it clean.

YOUR FIPG (FORMED IN PLACE GASKET) IS ONLY AS GOOD AS THE SURFACES ARE THAT THE SEALANT CONTACTS.

ABSOLUTE CLEANING OF THE BLOCK AND THE PAN SURFACES IS THE KEY TO A SUCCESSFUL NON-LEAKING JOB. AND, AS NOTED THE BEST SEALANTS ARE THOSE THAT HAVE A 24 HOUR CURE TIME. :nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How much does it leak?
Leaks like a crazy...

Thank you.
Get a tube of Toyota pan sealant. Don't use too much .Do not use a gasket.
I think the cork gasket would've been worked if I had known where the leak at.

Solved: The leak doesn't come from the pan- thank God. Instead it comes from the crankshaft pulley. In a previous post, I asked for help that was related to low oil pressure, and that thang solved too by using the doctor flush(I think). Anyway, I replaced all the seals but the crankshaft seal when I did the valve spring seal replacement because it didn't leak at all so I don't know why it started leaking.
 
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