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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone got any input on whats the best Oil to be putting into your truck? I've always been a cheap guy when it comes to this but i'm thinking about changing to some better quality oil having a older-ish truck. Synthetic blends?


Here's my deal.

I bought my 93 v6 with 176,xxx miles for $1,000 3 months ago, body is tight, no rust, the guy just wanted to get rid of it. He didn't really baby the truck so to speak, he owned it for 2 years and, never changed the oil, he put about 5,xxx miles on it during the 2 year period. Never had any mechanical problems with it (neither have i, so far).

Sooo my question is would be going synthetic be worth it for me rightnow? I'm just looking to get the most out of the engine hopefully keep it alive for as long as possible. I've heard synthetics can cause leaks on older cars getting through the seals etc. I don't drive too hard typically never over 80 on the freeway but i run 3rd gear rpms a tad bit high because the speed limit here on the country roads is 35-40mph 4th gear doesent do well at -40mph lol.


I know guys that swear by Royal Purpule but idk about that because these are the same guys saying they change thier oil every 1,500-2,000 miles :rolleyes:.


Thanks, for any insight.
 

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1992 K-Blazer
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18 Posts
You might want to consider a High Mileage blended oil. For a less expensive option I have used Walmarts Super Tech brand oil & filters for many years in all my vehicles/lawnmowers/tractors without any problems. Yes, oil companies push changing your oil at 3000 miles (go figure...) Most operators manuals say ~7500 miles unless in severe conditions like constant towing or dusty conditions.


http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm
The oil is supplied to Wal-Mart by Pennzoil/Quaker-State. It uses the same high-quality group II/III base stocks as their name oil, but uses an off-the shelf additive package. That doesn't mean it is lesser than the 'Z-7' or whatever additive package they advertise about. Most oil companies register their particular name-brand additive package formulas, so they cannot be 'copied' by another manufacturer. That way they can advertise about 'Nothing is the same as...' and all that kind of crap. An off the shelf package is available to whatever packager wants to buy it. So it is a little more economical for the packager. This also prevents stores like Pep-Boys, Wal-Mart etc...from advertising that their 'house' oil is 'same as Q/S but at a cheaper price.' Wal-Mart's 'Super-Tech' dino oil is less than a buck a quart, and their synthetic brand is $2.97/Qt. Great deal. Their 'Super-Tech' oil filters are also very high quality, unfortunately much better than Fram. Fram has really gone downhill in the last several years, ever since 'Allied-Signal' bought them. At less than $3.00 apiece, the 'S-T' filters are a smokin' bargain.
 

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Newbbie
2004 Toyota Tacoma
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536 Posts
I just recently switched to Mobile 1 High Milage Fully Synthetic. I use to use valvoline synthetce blend high milage for awhile, but wanted to swich due to higher milage purposes, plus my engine only has 90000 miles on it. I also use the new oil filter that fram just came out with specifically desighned to be use with synthetic oils, there supposed to catch smaller particles. But i would have been a little leary about buying a truck from somebody who hasent did an oil change for 2 years and 2000 miles over due. But you only paid a grand for it so if the engine does go up you can put in a brand new jasper engine and still be under the value of the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
But i would have been a little leary about buying a truck from somebody who hasent did an oil change for 2 years and 2000 miles over due.
Yeah i was sorta thinking the same thing at the time but then again. In Hawaii (where everything is nearly double$$) this exact same type/year truck with a cracked block i've seen go for nearly $3k firm or even without a engine at $3500 (yes people here smoke meth LOL). I just couldn't walk away from this deal after seeing the Receipts of a radiator & hose replacement that nearly totaled $800.

I'm running synthetic in my RSX but i just don't know about putting it into something older like this.
 

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With the mileage of the motor, I recommend an oil that's a 40 weight at operating temp. SomethingW-40. If it ends in 40, it will be a 40 weight at 212 deg F.

If the motor is leaking any oil out of either the front or rear main seals, then go with a high mileage oil. The best seems to be Valvoline MaxLife. I have it in my 286k mile veezy right now and it works great. Change at 4k miles.

Otherwise I'd recommend a group III synthetic; the type made from petroleum. They offer much of the benefits of the true syns, but at a fraction of the price. Better for higher mile motors than the true syns which might wash out sludge that is plugging a gap that otherwise would be leaking oil. Group IIIs won't cause leaks. Change at 5-6k miles.

Best group III is probably Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 or Valvoline Synpower 5W-40. Castrol Syntec 10W-40 also good - I used that for years with excellent results. Pennzoil Platinum is excellent but they don't make a 40 weight.

If you go with a conventional oil, a 15W-40 will shear much less than a 10W-40 and, being a diesel type oil, will have better anti-wear additives. Rotella T3 is probably the best one. Change at 3k miles.

Lots of oil info here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2909808#post2909808

Also:

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
http://www.synlube.com/viscosit.htm
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/ZDDP.htm
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

What Oil Filter to choose?:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312722
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/tall-oil-filter-vs-small-oil-filter-190242/
 

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139 Posts
I use Penzoil High Mileage. Before that regular Penzoil. I am the original owner of a 160,000 mile V6 xcab 4x4. I change the oil every 5k (easy for me to remember).
 

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Lemon Jelly Donut
many things
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As you can tell, alot of varying opinions...... I personally use dino-based Castrol 10w-40 on my 93 with over 212k on the clock, and Castrol 10w30 on my 06 taco. The wife's lexus seems to like Mobil 1 10w30. Always Bosch or better filters.
 

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'06 Seinna XLE AWD, '04 Highlander V6 4WD
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Ya I would recomend 15w-40 fleet oil it has allot more detergents in it and usually used in desiels. Works well to clean out the crank case on older high mile vehicles also and it is CHEAP!!
 

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HiluxSupraISF
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I've been using Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30..... lol @ 176,900 right now.

with the Purolator PL3001
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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2,434 Posts
I think synthetics are better, but marginaly so. I definitely use them in my 06 Sienna, and have used them in my truck. I had a cam wipe in my truck, crane performance cam. I called crane about it and they said I should not have used synthetic oil. I since have learned that there is a lubrication issue with 22r engines that is not apparent until you run a bigger cam and tach the engine up alot.

Anyhow. with the current service classification of SM the oil you buy today is lightyears ahead of what we used to get. Most any oil you can get will do the job as long as you change it frequently enough. You can go 5k or even 7.5k if you drive mostly on the highway and for more than 30minutes at a time. If you drive in stop and go traffic or even worse a lot of short trips (5min to the store and back kind of stuff) then you should definitely be changing it more frequently.

as far as brand. in the past I've seen a lot of sludged up engines that ran Quaker State and Pennzoil, so I tend towards Castrol, Valvoline, and Mobil.
 
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