ok i have a question i have a 96 tercel stick and am goin to replace all the fluids fromthe car and wanted to know what are the best motor oil?tranny oil? and oil filter?
oil questions
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The best varies by useage, location and abuse. For a filter I still get mine from Toyota though the web says they are made by a local company. For trans I'd recommend 75-80 or lower if available.
I use 5W-30 Syntec in my Tercel personally for better performance and to let the engine last longer. Filter as far as I use Fram High Mileage filters, since my engine has 173k Miles on it. The Filter code for a 94 Tercel which is mine would be PH4967, that's for a 3EE engine. Transmission fluid I never changed yet so I'm not sure on it.
I'm from Manitoba where the weather will go from +30 C to -30 C in a matter of 5 months so I know my setup will take some harsh climates.
Well you have a '96 5E-FE so it should take 5W-30, I personally use Mobil 1 Synthetic as for the filter I use a Toyota filter though I use an F1 as opposed to the F2. For the transmission, mines a five speed as well and I run Castrol Syntec 75W-90, would run Royal Purple but it's hard to come by in my area. For coolant I run Toyota Long Life Coolant mixed 50/50, good to -37 C.
Well you have a '96 5E-FE so it should take 5W-30, I personally use Mobil 1 Synthetic as for the filter I use a Toyota filter though I use an F1 as opposed to the F2. For the transmission, mines a five speed as well and I run Castrol Syntec 75W-90, would run Royal Purple but it's hard to come by in my area. For coolant I run Toyota Long Life Coolant mixed 50/50, good to -37 C.
I'd use Mobile1 synthetic 5w30 for motor oil, unless it leaks oil... in which case I would put Pennzoil or non-synthetic Mobile oil in it. I would not use a FRAM filter - they have paper and glue holding things in place inside them according to the parts store guy. I would use a K&N filter - they are well made and have a nut on top so you can remove them with a normal wrench. I'd put mobile1 synthetic 75w80 in the transmission.
G
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·Been running Mobil 1 in the engine and Royal Purple 75W-90 in the trans. I'm in the middle of a tear down right now, valve stems seals were hard as rock. Much to my amazement, all valvetrain parts are still in spec and no milling of the head was required. Toyota's quality is second to none.:clap:
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96 Posts
Why do you suggest using Pennzoil or non-synthetic Mobile oil in the case of a leak?
I have been using Kendal Synthetic blend getting oil changes done at Firestone and have been noticing the oil burning up quickly.I checked my car for leaks with cardboard under the engine and didn't find any.
Because synthetic oil is expensive and not worth it if it's all just going to leak out
Burning oil is a whole different matter than leaking oil. Burning means it's getting into the combustion chamber, which generally means piston rings are getting worn out. Using slightly thicker oil or thickening oil treatment sometimes helps with oil burning since it's harder for it to seep past the piston rings when the engine is hot.
I use either Amesoil or Mobil-1 in my 96 stick.
I never did anything with the tranny.
I wouldn't use Frem either, both for the reason stated above and because when Consumer Reports used to grade Fram products as the best, I didn't realize that both Fram and Consumer Reports were (at the time) owned by parent comapny "Allied Signal". Bit of a conflict of interest to say the least.
I use Purilator, NAPA or AC filters.
I never did anything with the tranny.
I wouldn't use Frem either, both for the reason stated above and because when Consumer Reports used to grade Fram products as the best, I didn't realize that both Fram and Consumer Reports were (at the time) owned by parent comapny "Allied Signal". Bit of a conflict of interest to say the least.
I use Purilator, NAPA or AC filters.
'92 5E-FE Paseo. 225+K on the engine and manual trans, no rebuilds (though one is pretty much on top of me...)
Used Mobil 1 10W30 since 45K when I bought it used, no idea what the prev owner used. Another 40K in HI where I'm from (warm, damp salt air kills motors with glee), 100K in 115 degF Phoenix, with silica dust in the air to score cylinders), and another 45K in Seattle with not only salty saturated air, but also freezing temps).
I think the damp climates did the most damage to the motor, as humidity can form acids in hot engine oil from combustion byproducts, and when that sits on iron, it etches it. Phoenix killed my rubber seals mostly, but it ran like a *champ* there, no viscosity modifiers needed (like Lucas' products... not until I got to Seattle).
In the six years I've lived in the PNW, the drivetrain (already 180+K miles and tired) has seen the worst degradation. I've not used 5W30 due to oil consumption problems about 2 yrs ago, but luckily traced them to blowby/PCV, not the rings. Mobil 1 has been in the case for the entire time; tried Castrol GTX, Castrol Syntec (though this was when it first came out), and prefer the Mobil 1, in 10W30, since it freezes but doesn't get much colder than that...
The only oil I'd suggest for those who want protection *and* a low price, is Shell Rotella diesel engine oil. There are two grades; semi-synth and full synth. In semi, both grades are a bit thick for our engines... but the Rotella-T full-bull is available in 5W30. $19 for a 5-quart bottle IIRC...
The advantages are:
-- low, low price for a full synth and its awesome additive package, which includes:
-- strong acid buffers, soot suspension and viscosity modifiers designed for the filth of big commercial diesel engines, so vastly over-engineered for civilian gas motors.
-- available at any Wally World or place that sells engine oil for trucks, so pretty much any service station.
I use this oil in my '00 SV650S track bike, and so do many of the club racers I share the pavement with, including 130hp 600 Supersport inline-Fours and the 180hp 1000cc SuperTwins, like VTRs, TL-S/Rs and even some Ducatis and KTMs. It's good oil, it's cheap, and well worth it to protect your motor in damp weather on the street... and it makes even more sense, if you plan to run boost.
Used Mobil 1 10W30 since 45K when I bought it used, no idea what the prev owner used. Another 40K in HI where I'm from (warm, damp salt air kills motors with glee), 100K in 115 degF Phoenix, with silica dust in the air to score cylinders), and another 45K in Seattle with not only salty saturated air, but also freezing temps).
I think the damp climates did the most damage to the motor, as humidity can form acids in hot engine oil from combustion byproducts, and when that sits on iron, it etches it. Phoenix killed my rubber seals mostly, but it ran like a *champ* there, no viscosity modifiers needed (like Lucas' products... not until I got to Seattle).
In the six years I've lived in the PNW, the drivetrain (already 180+K miles and tired) has seen the worst degradation. I've not used 5W30 due to oil consumption problems about 2 yrs ago, but luckily traced them to blowby/PCV, not the rings. Mobil 1 has been in the case for the entire time; tried Castrol GTX, Castrol Syntec (though this was when it first came out), and prefer the Mobil 1, in 10W30, since it freezes but doesn't get much colder than that...
The only oil I'd suggest for those who want protection *and* a low price, is Shell Rotella diesel engine oil. There are two grades; semi-synth and full synth. In semi, both grades are a bit thick for our engines... but the Rotella-T full-bull is available in 5W30. $19 for a 5-quart bottle IIRC...
The advantages are:
-- low, low price for a full synth and its awesome additive package, which includes:
-- strong acid buffers, soot suspension and viscosity modifiers designed for the filth of big commercial diesel engines, so vastly over-engineered for civilian gas motors.
-- available at any Wally World or place that sells engine oil for trucks, so pretty much any service station.
I use this oil in my '00 SV650S track bike, and so do many of the club racers I share the pavement with, including 130hp 600 Supersport inline-Fours and the 180hp 1000cc SuperTwins, like VTRs, TL-S/Rs and even some Ducatis and KTMs. It's good oil, it's cheap, and well worth it to protect your motor in damp weather on the street... and it makes even more sense, if you plan to run boost.
An oil stabilizer would help in both cases.Because synthetic oil is expensive and not worth it if it's all just going to leak out
Burning oil is a whole different matter than leaking oil. Burning means it's getting into the combustion chamber, which generally means piston rings are getting worn out. Using slightly thicker oil or thickening oil treatment sometimes helps with oil burning since it's harder for it to seep past the piston rings when the engine is hot.
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