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Oil Sludge + Unknown Thing Hanging Out of Engine

43132 Views 314 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  guitar1junky
We are having issues with our new *used* 2002 Toyota Highlander. We knew when we purchased that it needed to have the valve cover gaskets repaired, because they were leaking really badly. We had them replaced just before a road trip, along w/AC vac and charge, and new plugs. We knew we would be due for an oil change when we got back, so we waited to do that part.

Anyway, the engine was very dirty, caked with sludge all over the place. When hubby brought the vehicle home from the shop, I noticed a burning smell. So I opened the hood, and told him how dirty it looked. I called the mechanic and asked him about the burning smell, which he said came from "the engine cleaner they used after the repair" which would burn off and the smell would dissipate. Even though it didn't make much sense to me, I just said OK, and didn't want to bother him - I assumed nothing was wrong since it had just left his garage.

FFW two days later. Our 500 mile road trip went fine, and car had been parked two days since we had arrived. I went to run to the store and when I turned on the car, there was a loud noise from the engine. Popped the hood and thought it was coming from the left side, near the belt, but in the engine. It seemed to go away after I started driving, so I didn't think anything of it again. Drove about 5 miles, no other issues.

Next day, drove about 20 miles away, and halfway through the trip, I noticed a burning smell. I turned off the AC and didn't smell it, so I assumed it was from another car ahead of me. I parked and shopped, then left about 45 minutes later. On the same route back, I smelled the burning smell again, and the red oil lamp light started to blink. Luckily, there was a service station immediately, and I pulled in front of the bay doors. I asked the mechanic to help me check and see what was wrong. He pulled the dipstick and there was oil, it looked pretty normal. He commented about it looking like I had a leak in my valve cover gasket (probably because no one cleaned the yuck off after repairing it). He wiped with his rag under the bumper somewhere near the exhaust and the pan, and said there was a leak somewhere. He told me to go get an oil change, and see if that fixed it. I asked him if it was safe to drive, and he said as long as it doesn't overheat.

So, I drove to my parent's house where my husband was, and parked the car. We had a friend of my family come over to look at the car, and called our mechanic back home. He mentioned it could be the sending unit, or the pump. The friend said could be a blocked screen. So, we dropped the pan, and found a disgusting mess of sludge. The friend thought that it was original factory oil it was so bad. We cleaned everything out, and soaked the screen in diesel, then put it all back together. Ran an engine cleaner through, and drained the oil, and put in a new filter and new oil afterwards.

During the repair, the friend mentioned something about a gunky covered tube hanging out of the front of the engine. He didn't know what it was. It was so covered in gunk, you could barely see it.

On our drive home, we started to hear a sound like gravel flying up under the car. We knew we were looking at potential engine damage from when I drove the car home, so assumed something was damaged from that drive, and kept going home, and figured we would address it with our mechanic (or a new one) when we got home. The "knocking" sound got louder, and seemed to be between speeds of 60-70mph, when accelerating, and decelerating as well. It was not constant, though. It would come and go. Sometimes making two noises, sometimes several, and would go long periods of time with no sound at all.

When we stopped halfway for gas, I told hubby he should check oil, and he looked underneath and found that pan was leaking at the plug/bolt. We were concerned that we had lost oil, and so we added a quart, and tightened the bolt. When we got back on the road, the sound got worse, so we stopped again. We called a friend, who told us to try driving slowly, that it could be something more minor like a rocker arm, if it didn't do it at slower speeds, and if it was still doing it, more likely a rod bearing.

We went 50mph for nearly 100 miles, with no sound. Then, during the last 15 miles of the trip, a similar sound started. It was more like 6 or 7 smaller gravel rocks hitting the bottom of the car, instead of the larger 2 or 3, etc.

We got home, and left the vehicle parked until we took it in to a mechanic, who test drove it and said he heard nothing.

I started it up yesterday and noticed a very thin amount of white smoke coming from the tail pipe on cold start. It continued even as the car had warmed, so I shut it off and popped the hood again. The oil was reading really high, so I called hubby and told him we needed to drain the oil off to proper level to avoid damaging valve seals, etc. When he got home last night, I had spent 3 hours cleaning the engine. I was shoulder deep in grease stains, lol! I cleaned off the "gunky hose thingy" that sticks out of the engine. I don't know what it is, but I am concerned if it is something that should be connected to a PCV hose or something of that nature, because in my research on the "toyota sludge" I found out some information on the role of the PCV in oil sludge, etc.

OH, we also dropped the pan and it had a mound of sludge in it and the engine when looking up in the car is covered in HARDENED sludge. Hubby is planning to spray brake cleaner and try to dislodge only the stuff from the bottom. Not sure if we should attempt another engine cleaner, or just leave that **** where it is, as we don't want to keep sending it to the pan and leaving the engine open to not getting the oil it needs when it re-clogs.

So, now I need to know if someone can identify this strange hose - and what needs to be done with it? If it is the PCV thing, could it have been disconnected during the valve cover gasket repair? Is there something our mechanic could have done to cause or prevent this stuff? At the least, surely he saw the gunk/sludge when he had it opened up for the repair to the valve cover gaskets?

Next, I noticed that Toyota has re-designed the valve covers, and the oil pump on our vehicle. What does this have to do with the sludge problem (does it keep that from continually happening if we clean the engine out and keep this car)?

Thirdly, I also pulled the dipstick for the trans fluid when cleaning. It's very dark brown. I know Toyota says it's lifetime fluid, and not to change, but since it's dirty, and we have 166k, should we do it? I've read that some people say not to flush, others not to change the fluid, because of the friction from the particles. Would a slippage additive, or a half fluid change be a good compromise on this, because I would like the added benefits of fresh fluid, but do have some concern on the effect it will have on the trans functioning. Also, could the sound be from the trans, and have nothing to do with the oil issue?

THANKS!!!!! Sorry, I know that's a LOT! :)
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you have a v6 and looks like the old owners didnt change the oil much. these engines are known for that. the tube is a drain for the block to drain all the coolant of it.
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Ok thanks. Is it missing anything? Should it be connected to something? Does it ever need to be changed for maintenance, etc., or do they ever go bad?
A few thoughts;

First, I concur the block coolant petcock in your photos can be ignored. It's just for when draining coolant.

The sludge issue needs to be addressed ASAP and is likely the cause of your smoke, startup noises and the gravel sound, which by your comments is coming from the engine.

Do you have any recourse for remedy from the people you bough the HL from? Worst case, the engine is shot and on borrowed time. Best case is that you can de-sludge it and salvage it.

Taking the pan off and scraping and/or chemically removing the sludge and carbon is a good step. Also, you might have a ton of that sludge/carbon clogging the oil pump pickup screen. You might have to clean the pump screen twice (see below).

After manual cleaning and attaching the pan, I'd run fresh oil and a can of Engine flush at *idle* for a good 30 minutes, drain the pan. Immediately repeat twice again. Use that high mileage oil with higher dosage of zinc. It'll protect bearings and tappets from further wear while you Roto-Rooter the plumbing.

Drop the pan again and scrape, wash and clean everything visible, including oil pump screen. Hopefully, it'll be pretty clean this time.

Reattach pan.

Fill it with the high-zinc oil and about 4 oz of motor flush.

Find and replace the PCV valve. Make sure the PCV rubber hose and the valve cover breather hose (also attached to the air cleaner) is clean and clear.

Drive it for 500 miles. The do a drain and repeat the fresh oil and 4 oz of flush.

Pray for a quiet engine.
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A few thoughts;

First, I concur the block coolant petcock in your photos can be ignored. It's just for when draining coolant.

The sludge issue needs to be addressed ASAP and is likely the cause of your smoke, startup noises and the gravel sound, which by your comments is coming from the engine.

Do you have any recourse for remedy from the people you bough the HL from? Worst case, the engine is shot and on borrowed time. Best case is that you can de-sludge it and salvage it.

Taking the pan off and scraping and/or chemically removing the sludge and carbon is a good step. Also, you might have a ton of that sludge/carbon clogging the oil pump pickup screen. You might have to clean the pump screen twice (see below).

After manual cleaning and attaching the pan, I'd run fresh oil and a can of Engine flush at *idle* for a good 30 minutes, drain the pan. Immediately repeat twice again. Use that high mileage oil with higher dosage of zinc. It'll protect bearings and tappets from further wear while you Roto-Rooter the plumbing.

Drop the pan again and scrape, wash and clean everything visible, including oil pump screen. Hopefully, it'll be pretty clean this time.

Reattach pan.

Fill it with the high-zinc oil and about 4 oz of motor flush.

Find and replace the PCV valve. Make sure the PCV rubber hose and the valve cover breather hose (also attached to the air cleaner) is clean and clear.

Drive it for 500 miles. The do a drain and repeat the fresh oil and 4 oz of flush.

Pray for a quiet engine.
This is 100% what I would do. You will know in short time how bad it is from cleaning the screen.
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Okay, so you think dislodging the sludge from inside the engine that will come off is a good idea? I have gotten mixed responses on this. One mechanic said not to (the last we took it to). Though, my initial instinct was to try to clean it as much as possible before driving it again. Then, repeat soon after. Just as you suggested. The mechanic said we shouldn't because it would loosen stuff that could then clog up someplace else and cause engine damage. So, we were hesitant to after he said that.

Can we put the oil back in after cleaning it? I bought a metal screen and was going to try filtering it before putting it back in. It was practically new when we just dropped the pan again. We did drive home 500 miles since we added it, and that was it.

And just to clarify; the "unknown thingy" is not supposed to be connected to anything, so I can leave it alone?

Thanks !! :)
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Your mechanic's concern's are not invalid if a flush is done half way. Partially cleaning up the engine may indeed leave lots of crap clogging drain passages and pump intake screen.

However, my policy is that if you are going to do an engine flush on an older abused engine, then go both barrels and clean it like you were prepping for a procto.

At this point you really have nothing to lose as the engine is in a seriously sorry state.

Nothing wrong with changing the transmission fluid. Do it gradually if you like, although HL's aren't known for abusing their fluid. Drop three quarts and fill. Repeat twice again at 1 week intervals.

Pour in 10 oz of Lubeguard (red) after the last fill.

Yes, leave the coolant purge port alone.
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Okay, so how do I know that cleaning it will get it all, without taking it apart? I was under the impression that the cleaners can only do so much, and reach certain places. Is it a risk to clean it? Is it a risk not to as well? At this point, I am almost ready to go trade this thing in and wash my hands of it!!! But, I don't want it to die out on the way over or during their treat drive. I don't feel good selling it outright unless I can be sure I've gotten it all squared away. Trade in would be the only solution we would feel comfortable with. If I'm going to trade it, should I still go through with trying to clean it? Or, let them deal with it at the dealerships shop?
You don't know that you've gotten it all without disassembly. That said, you don't need to get it factory squeaky clean, just cleaned out enough to make it run right and reduce oil burning.

The flush+oil goes everywhere the lubricating oil goes; through bearings, down drain holes, through oil pump, splashes all around the valve covers, valve train, etc. It's the persistent and thrice-over flush/clean procedure that keeps working at the sludge and carbon. It WILL be cleaner internally than when you started. Whether the bearing/valve train damage is too severe and beyond "chemical remedy", you won't know until you do the chemical route.

Hand wringing doesn't make it better and driving it in this condition surely makes it slowly worse.

My overall point is that you can spend $100 in chemicals and oil and *see* if this helps. If it doesn't, you are no worse off than before and still face trading it in or spending $$$ for repairs. Except, it's at least internally cleaner than it was before, which may help when trading it in.
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If you're looking at selling it on here post up some pics ;) Some of us are looking for little projects.
I would suggest finding a shop that specializes in engines and speaking to them. Whether they are able to tear it apart and rebuild it or replace it is what it's probably going to come down to. Based on your description, noises, etc it sounds like it is on its last legs, it's a shame that someone passed on their POS to you.
OK, we are going to go with the ATF as the engine cleaner. My friend suggested Type F specifically. 2 qts ATF 3 qts oil, run 15-20 min, then drain.
How to remove the real pan???

We have realized that we have only been taking off the lower, inspection pan. Can you tell me how to take off the upper oil pan so that we can clean that out? Is there a tutorial or a video somewhere? At least a diagram? We have no idea what we are doing, and we can see that it is badly sludged inside of there. It keeps coming off down into the lower pan, but we aren't able to clean the upper pan because we cannot get access to it.

You did mean to drop the upper pan, not the inspection pan, correct?
Yes, it's awful that they sold it to us... We spent all of our money on it, and now I have no vehicle to transport my 1 and 4 year old in. My husbands truck seats 3, so he has to ride in the bed of the truck or I have to sit on the floorboard if we go anywhere. There is not even room for my 4 year olds car seat. Basically, we go to church on Sunday and no where else. I only have hope that we can clean it out, and that the engine isn't already ruined. Then we can go trade it in and get a decent running vehicle.
Not sure what you mean by "upper pan". Once you have the oil pan off there is a baffle/shield, which I believe just has a series of 10mm bolts around it. remove it if you like and scrape, wash it in turpentine or similar.

Don't know what flush procedure you chose (I've never used transmission fluid), but the oil pan obviously has to go back on for flushing. I highly recommend removing it again at the end of flushing to remove the last bit of carbon/sludge.

The first time you put the pan back on, you just need enough gasket goop to seal somewhat--don't be fussy about it.

The second (final) time you put the pan on do a careful job of cleaning the mating surfaces and applying gasket material and tightening the pan bolts in a star pattern.

As for your possible valve cover leak, it's possible the mechanic didn't tighten the bolts snugly or evenly.

Last, you might grab a can of engine degreaser at Walmart and clean off the outside of the engine and bay. They do run cooler when the outside is clean, not to mention less nasty to do maintenance.
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We couldn't get it off as it is siliconed on and hubby did not want to hammer and pry to take it off. I'm removing right now. Under car with my poncho on, lol. Yesterday I had to wash my hair 3 times on dawn dish soap after my cleaning session. There are 2 holes or tunnels that go up (aside from where the screen attaches). They're heavily gunked. I've been using a long wooden dowel and the dipstick to clean (since its flexible). I don't want to ram a clot of this stuff up there but I've already begun. Where do these passageways go to and if I pour a bit of oil in the top with the pan off, can I see if the oil runs through them ?
How can I clean these out ?
I'll take a picture but not sure I can load it to the album from under the car on my phone.
Wow, y'all are getting after it!

I don't know the block orifices that well, but am guessing they're head/block drain passages.

Try one of these or something similar:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Zip-It-Bath-and-Sink-Hair-Snare-BC00400/100665735#.UhpkbD-wU-c

You can also use 0.095 or heavier weed wacker line that is squarish (versus round profile), tie a small knot in one, and chuck TIGHTLY the other end in a cordless drill. Shove the knotted end in the tube and run drill at low speeds while moving the line up and down the tube.
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Ran first round of engine cleaner this afternoon. Going to let it sit overnight and then drain tomorrow evening when hubby gets home from work. Then clean and repeat.

I also think its a good idea to swap the pcv valve. Should this be done after the flushes, or right away?

I saw that someone mentioned there being an issue with the original pcv valve on first gen highlanders, so, is there a better one to switch to, or will changing it often do the trick? I haven't done research on the other part he mentions (the baffle). *see below*

Here's where I got the info from:

"Make extra sure that there is flow through the PCV line and don't push the Oil Change Interval.
In 2003, on the 1MZFE motor, they went to a different PCV valve....all metal that screws into the rear valve cover.
They also improved the baffel in the rear valve cover to reduce buildup between the baffel and the top of the valve cover.....which could block airflow TO the PCV valve.

A lack of flow through the PCV valve will give you "gelling" or sludge in short order.

The PCV valve is mounted in the rear valve cover......passenger side.....kind of hard to see, it is behind a vaccum actuator on the upper intake manifold.

I listed a few larger filters a while back.....the same filter that was used on my '96 3.8L windstar is a direct fit.....slightly longer
but the same bypass valve pressure and identical gasket and threads.
I am using the WIX on my 2003 Sienna with the 1MZFE, plenty of room for it.

WIX 51516
Fram XG3600
Purolator PL20195
Mobil 1 M1-209
K&N HP-2009"
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Blondie--don't get many female DIY's on this forum, much less ones who are under a car scraping sludge of an engine. You might consider a showercap to keep your hair cleaner. :lol:

Don't know about other's reading this thread, but your diving into this issue up your elbows (literally) leaves me wide-eyed awe-struck!

I (and other's) are profoundly curious as to how you became this interested in the "underhood" realm. Farm Girl? NASCAR pit crew member? :D

I would change the PCV, last. And make sure both its hose and the valve cover breather hose on the other bank is clear.

I wouldn't be concerned with revised valve covers. Really, normal due diligence with oil changes and driving the car say once a week long enough--maybe 15 minutes or so in the summer, 30 min in winter-- to get it up to temperature and boil off any moisture in the crankcase, is all that's required. These V6's really aren't fussy with decent maintenance.
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Lol. Yes I'm sure there's not a lot if us. No NASCAR, but I do enjoy taking things apart and putting them back together. Same goes for electronics. I think hubby and I are going to take a basic auto mechanic class at some point if we don't end up just learning by trial, error, manuals and YouTube!

I looked all over the house for a shower cap but couldn't find one. My next trip to the dollar store ill be picking one up though, for sure! I must be honest, I am seriously interested in taking the valve covers off and manually cleaning out whatever I find, but, I feel it may be a bit over my head and I don't want to end up with everything in pieces and not be able to reassemble correctly. If it weren't my only vehicle and it wasn't all of my car budget, I'd have tried already. I think the pcv valve and the tube are as far as I should go before I take it down to the dealership and take on a car payment. Ugh!!!! Hubby has sworn off Toyota now and so I'm going to have to get a Honda pilot.

I hope after a few rounds of cleaning the pan looks clean enough to give it a rest and not worry as much about (further?) engine damage.

Keep ya posted !! Thanks for all of the help!!
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