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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks.

I am trying to narrow down the cause of a steering wheel vibration.

I changed the rotors twice.

The 1st time installing, the vibration became more apparent.
The 2nd time installing (brand new rotors and good pads), it got a lot more apparent.
(I made sure the hub surface was free of rust and debris this time)

It vibrates in an oscillating fashion after 65mph, and gets worse as the speed increases. The oscillation is consistent in frequency.
Also, at lows speeds, I get a random growling noise and it can be felt in the steering wheel, but it goes more than it comes.

I've eliminated dragging brakes (front rotor temps are the same (100-110 F, avg.)
The rear drums are about 90-95F, so no dragging there.

I don't think it's a cv axle joints per say because I don't get vibrations on acceleration, or turning.
But, I was wondering about the pass. side axle bearing that the shaft rides on.

After a drive, the temp for the pass. cv axle bearing was 155F. The box on the axle was around 145F. The shaft end near the hub was about 90F.
In comparison, the Driver Side Axle box was about 128F, and 90F for the shaft end.
(I haven't been able to check the hub temps yet)

I don't know what the typical operating temps are for those bearings on the pass. axles, but I thought I would ask to see if that's normal.

After the 2nd rotor install, I spun the driverside tire on the hub, in neutral, engine off, and it sounded like the dust shield dragging, but it was not.

I'm leaning towards the driverside bearing, but I wanted to double check to be doubly sure before replacing the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Checked the wheel hub temps after a 100 mile drive.
They are about the same temp as the rotors, which was 75-86 F, so none of the bearings are overheating.

Still puzzled. Anyone have any thoughts?
 

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I'm in the same boat, starts at 62 mph tones down at 70, been meaning to check the bearings but haven't delved into how to do that. I remember someone saying there should be no play side to side or up and down, after jacking up the side and moving the tire side to side and up and down.
 

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If your SW moves on its own left to right, or, in circular motion, as it's wheel, it is pushed into this by steering shaft. Steering shaft is pushed by rack and pinion. Rack n pinon is pushed by tie rods and tie rod ends. Those are pushed by hub knuckles. Hubs are pushed by wheels OR have bad bearings. If it is happening during braking, rotors will cause this.
 

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In my situation, I do have pulsing brakes for the past year. Rotors are on the way. Been having vibration in steering wheel at speed for 6 months or so, wrote it off as having old tires. New set of tires, same problem. I will be checking things out when the rotors get here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Im going to replace the LCA's next week to see if that improves anything.

They are about to need replacing anyways.

Still not sure if its a bearing, cv axle, or something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
In my situation, I do have pulsing brakes for the past year. Rotors are on the way. Been having vibration in steering wheel at speed for 6 months or so, wrote it off as having old tires. New set of tires, same problem. I will be checking things out when the rotors get here.
I had the steer wheel back and forth shake with the old rotors.(pads were wearing unevenly)

After replacing the rotors and pads, that went away.

What I have, happens when not on the brakes.
 

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My 04 Camry vibrates the steering wheel over 65 mph. One mechanic told me it was a torque converter problem. Still there after new wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My 04 Camry vibrates the steering wheel over 65 mph. One mechanic told me it was a torque converter problem. Still there after new wheels.
I hope not.

The noise is quite loud now from 45mph - 65mph.
From 30-45 its slightly noticeable.
After 65, the noise is barely there but the oscillating vibration comes then.
 

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Hi I have the same issue since a long time plus the steering wheel doesn’t sit straight even after wheel alignment. So 2 mechanics ( One from the wheel alignment store and one mechanic) told me that it could be the outer tie rod. And would replacement as sometimes it would get dry ( runs out of grease ) and could wear over time. Planning on to change it soon will update you.
 

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Turn the steering wheel all the way left, then all the way right, counting the total turns and put it exactly half way which should be centered. Are the wheels pointed perfectly straight ahead?
If not the steering rack is not centered to the wheels, meaning one tie rod assembly is shorter than the other, which can cause big problems.
If the shimmy is bad enough then maybe you can see it or see if anything is out of round from another car close to the one with the problem.
 

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2010 Camry SE V6
2008 Camry LE
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Have a shop road force balance the tires


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I replaced the left front L.C.A. & balljoint with new, and the left front spindle with a good used.
The noise and vibration is still there but significantly less on noise and vibration.

The left front spindle had some grit to it, when spun back and forth. So it needed replacing anyways.

So this must be a multi part problem.

The right front spindle bearing might have an issue too. (replaced that bearing about 83k miles ago)

Still trying to narrow this down.

I'm going to rotate the tires back to front sometime and see if that changes anything.
 

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My 2004 Camry does this on the highway intermittently as well. It hasn't bothered me enough yet to take a look at it, but I'm going to put new tires on it next week and I may have an alignment done at the same time as well. I had the dealership "align" it last time I got new tires but if I showed them the wear on my tires I could probably get my money back.
 

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I replaced the left front L.C.A. & balljoint with new, and the left front spindle with a good used.
The noise and vibration is still there but significantly less on noise and vibration.

The left front spindle had some grit to it, when spun back and forth. So it needed replacing anyways.

So this must be a multi part problem.

The right front spindle bearing might have an issue too. (replaced that bearing about 83k miles ago)

Still trying to narrow this down.

I'm going to rotate the tires back to front sometime and see if that changes anything.
There's a clue. How many miles on the car? When you get to a certain point, 2-300k miles, it can be anything or a combination of everything. All the components have been wearing together but when you replace something it throws the whole out of balance. At some point it is just better to replace everything and "zero" out the system. When I get a used car I typically go thru the suspension and have on multiple occasions bit the bullet and changed out all the bushings, ball joints, struts, tie rod ends and control arms. Granted it's a PITA but afterward I'm left with a fairly problem free vehicle for the next 60-100k miles. Just a thought.
 

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Hi I have the same issue since a long time plus the steering wheel doesn’t sit straight even after wheel alignment. So 2 mechanics ( One from the wheel alignment store and one mechanic) told me that it could be the outer tie rod. And would replacement as sometimes it would get dry ( runs out of grease ) and could wear over time. Planning on to change it soon will update you.
Any alignment shop with a decent reputation would not align you car if the steering wheel is not straight, when they are finished.
I posted this before but it seems to have been ignored.
MAKE SURE THE RACK IS CENTERED. WHEN CENTERED THE CAR SHOULD DRIVE STRAIGHT DOWN THE ROAD. IF NOT THEN IT HAS HIDDEN DAMAGE.
It's simple, BOTH TIE ROADS MUST BE THE SAME LENGTH.
I walked a member of this forum down this exact same pathway a while back, similar problem.
Turn the wheel to the right until it will move no more, then turn the wheel to the left until it will turn no more. Divide the number of turns by half and put a piece of masking tape on the top of the wheel EXACTLY HALF WAY FROM LOCK TO LOCK.
If the car will not drive straight down the road, then you have unequal length tie rods. The car MUST have the tie rod lengths exactly the same or it will not drive properly.
I think the thread was started by 98 Camry where I walked him down the process of correcting this problem.
A PROPER ALIGNMENT STARTS WITH A CENTERED STEERING WHEEL. THE POST ALIGNMENT TEST DRIVE WOULD CONFIRM THE CAR DRIVES STRAIGHT AND THE WHEEL IS CENTERED.

Ill see if I can find the thread.
 
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