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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Rookie mistake. Changing the oil in all of the cars. Different types,different brands, different volumes and doing the 4Runner last. 2010 SR5 with 197k on the odometer. Just finished a flawless coast to coast road trip with no issues, the rig ran (note past tense) flawlessly. I'm using Castrol 0-20 Extended Maximum Performance full synthetic. Add full jug and draw down the second jug until there is 1.5 quarts left in the gallon jug bottle. No issue with the math. Close up shop for the day. Drive to town, the dash board lights up with the slippery road warning, the red oil (magic lantern), and the engine warning light. Limped home, checked for leaks (found none), checked oil level. Way over the line. Found the oil jug-it contains 5 quarts,not 4. What a damned idiot. Drained the new oil, it seemed a bit dark for fresh oil, and added 6.5 quarts of fresh oil. THAT part, the oil level is resolved. Put the code reader on the rig. Pulled P0011, P014, P0021, P0022, and P0024. All related the VTT system(?). The engine starts, runs rough, and has at least one (lightly) tapping valve. The drive into town was about 60 miles round trip. My questions: Did I destroy this engine? Did I destroy the solenoids? With nearly 200k on the clock is it even worth saving? I have several MGBs so am sort of a fan of automotive lost causes.
 

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You overfilled by 1.9 quarts (5+3.5-6.6) if you did an oil filter change, and more than that if you didn't change the filter. If the oil was aerated even a little bit, I think the VVTi solenoid would not function properly and consequently set the error codes. Does the engine still run rough after you cleared the codes? Did any codes reset? You have an interference engine, so if valve timing was off a lot due to aerated oil then I suppose it's possible a valve was hit.
 

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I cleared the codes using my code reader (Actron CP9175). Fired her up. The Check Engine Light (CEL) is out but the Low Oil Pressure light is lit. Went for a test drive (3 miles) and had the CEL and Slip Indicator Light both come on and the rig seemed to goin to a "Limp" mode. Made it home and shut down. Pulled codes: P0300 (multiple misfires), P0014 (Camshaft Position B, Bank 1), and P0101(MAF/VAF A CKT {that's verbatim, still reseaching what it means exactly.}). Cleared the codes and went for a longer test drive. The low oil pressure light remains on all the time. No codes for about six miles. CEL and Slip Indicator Light come on and the rig once again goes in to "Limp" mode. After limping home and shutting down, I pull codes P0300 (multiple misfires), P0302 (Cylinder 2 misfire), P0306 (Cylinder 6 misfire), P0014 (Camshaft, Position B, Bank 1), and P0101 (MAF/VAF A CKT). It's getting dark, starting to snow, and I'm leaving for a few weeks in Alaska, so parked the rig and will get back on it next month. I'm wondering if the valve timing is off enough that the air intake system is getting some blowback from an open intake valve. I'm also thinking the oil pressure switch may have failed due to the oil overfill. I will be removing and testing each of the VVT solenoids when I get back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Echo,I definitely overfilled it. 8.5 quarts instead of 6.5 quarts. The oil I run in the 4runner comes in 5qt jugs as opposed to the other vehicles all using 4 qt or 2.5 gallon jugs. I wasn't paying close enough attention as I was racing the daylight and got in a rush. Learning more about the VVT system and hoping I didn't really screw up this motor. I drained out all of the oil from the overfill. It was filthy, very filthy considering the few miles on it so am guessing it really cleaned out every surface in the crankcase. Possibly clogged oil control valve filters contributing to the oil pressure light. You know,saying that, I didn't replace the oil filter when I drained out the overfill, so maybe it's gunked up as well. That's an easy check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You overfilled by 1.9 quarts (5+3.5-6.6) if you did an oil filter change, and more than that if you didn't change the filter. If the oil was aerated even a little bit, I think the VVTi solenoid would not function properly and consequently set the error codes. Does the engine still run rough after you cleared the codes? Did any codes reset? You have an interference engine, so if valve timing was off a lot due to aerated oil then I suppose it's possible a valve was hit.
Would the aerated oil cause the valve to open more than normal? I would think the aerated oil would have less pressure than non-aerated oil? The VVT system is new to me, so I'm asking out of ignorance/curiosity.
 

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How far did you drive the vehicle with the extra oil in it?
The oil pump pickup is at the lowest part of the engine, it is at the bottom of the lower oil pan, just can't picture how aerated oil would get picked up by the pump!
Actually, if the oil pressure warning light is on, it means the engine lost oil pressure. VVTi utilize oil pressure to do its work, without oil pressure, the system won't work.
Any idea how is the inside of the engine? Meaning is it nice and clean or otherwise?
 

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Does that motor call for 0w20 or were using a heavier oil?
In addition, you mention the oil was filthy after a new oil change, and if switched the type of oil this motor is used to, did you clog the VVTI screen?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How far did you drive the vehicle with the extra oil in it?
The oil pump pickup is at the lowest part of the engine, it is at the bottom of the lower oil pan, just can't picture how aerated oil would get picked up by the pump!
Actually, if the oil pressure warning light is on, it means the engine lost oil pressure. VVTi utilize oil pressure to do its work, without oil pressure, the system won't work.
Any idea how is the inside of the engine? Meaning is it nice and clean or otherwise?
I couldn't tell you other than that the oil was very dirty after a 60 mile round trip. I think the aeration issue comes in to play as the higher oil levels results in churning (foaming) from the connecting rods stirring it up.
 

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Compression test the motor to see what state its in. From there troubleshoot the codes.

If the oil pressure light is on, I'd highly advise just parking the truck, and using something else until you have a proper chance to troubleshoot it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Does that motor call for 0w20 or were using a heavier oil?
In addition, you mention the oil was filthy after a new oil change, and if switched the type of oil this motor is used to, did you clog the VVTI screen?
Previous five or six oil changes were with Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic for Japanese engines. Due to local unavailability switched to Castrol Edge High Mileage 0W-20 synthetic this time. The 8.5 quarts were filthy, after 60 miles, when drained it all out. I replaced it with 6.5 quarts of the Castrol Edge.
 

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I am not familiar with your engine, I am going to try doing some googling to see how it is set up.
If this was a ford I would assume one of the oil pressure-controlled timing chain tensioners blew a gasket or a bad cam phaser. On a ford, if you blew an oil pressure controlled timing chain tensioner you would lose some of the tension on the chain but also have oil passing through its gasket causing a loss of oil pressure further up the engine to its solenoid and also just a lower pressure oil supply to the camshafts/bearings etc, but in the ford, the oil pressure sensor is low on the engine so it is in the area before where the leak is so you would still show normal oil pressure even though you had low pressure where it counted.

Again I do not know how the setup is in your engine yet. I will post back if I come up with any theories. Can you tell me what engine you have in it?

Side question. Where are you going in Alaska and what you got going up there? I grew up there.
 

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It is possible to blow out seals from the overpressure in the crankcase.
I believe if your crank main rear seal blows out and oil blows out that side it can flow up over the flywheel causing clutch slip, this would also explain the low oil pressure light. There could also be damage to the oil pump itself, Foaming oil does not lubricate or cool very well so it is possible that you may have damage associated with overheating or lack of lubrication such as damage to the cam bearings. Did you notice any smoke coming out the tailpipe? If you blew a rear seal that could explain the clutch slip, and low oil pressure, the low oil pressure would cause issues with the VVT functioning (adjusting the timing) if like a ford it has an oil pressure-controlled solenoid, the lack of proper oil pressure would prevent the VVT from adjusting your timing properly which would cause a rough engine. I am not sure of the procedure to check for a blown rear crank seal or if there is maybe some kind of drain/access hole in the housing under the flywheel to see if there is engine oil in there. If you blew a rear main seal and got oil on the clutch, you will need the seal replaced and you will need a new clutch as you can not clean the oil off of that material. When it slips do you smell anything burning? usually when a clutch slips you will smell it, has a nasty smell, hard to explain the smell, almost like burning electrical to me but others say it smells like rotten eggs. If it has that smell you might not have oil on it, if it smells like burning oil when it slips then you probably do have oil on the clutch. You will probably have to get it to a shop to at least get properly inspected to figure out the extent of the possible damage. See if you have oil on the plugs, again you should see smoke out the tailpipe if oil is pushed into the combustion chamber, maybe pull the valve covers off and inspect the camshaft bearings for damage. Overpressure can also cause physical damage to the pistons, can bend and break things. Hopefully, you do not have any actual damage to anything and just need to replace the seal and clutch. I do not know if a blown seal will cause low oil pressure, maybe the foaming can or if enough oil leaks out and you have low oil in the pan, do you still get low oil pressure after you drained and filled to proper level? and with the oil still at operating level?

Not sure what that repair would cost, I think a seal replacement is going to be in the range of like $900, pre covid so who knows now. The clutch I do not know, but they will already have the transmission out for the seal replacement so the only added labor is pulling the old clutch out and sliding the new one in, couple hundred I think for the part. $1400 U.S I am just guessing, conservatively. I hate giving money to a mechanic so I myself would probably try to tackle it on my own. I would think maybe could be done for under $300 for parts and replacement oil.

Side thought... You said the new oil was very dirty, Could that be another clue pointing towards the rear main seal blown out? you could have oil blowing back into the housing where the clutch is then all that clutch material over time collected in there plus all the new contamination from all the clutch slipping getting in that oil and flowing back into the oil pan, that stuff can not be good for your parts that need lubrication, is this material flowing into the bearings and piston walls that need smooth lubrication? is it causing damage to the surfaces, is it clogging channels the oil flows through, could it have been enough to have clogged your oil filter blocking and seriously limiting flow to the engine? you are going to want to replace that oil filter as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It has the 1GR-FE 4 liter V-6 with the 5-speed automatic transmission. 4WD. No observed leaks anywhere. I am looking for a diagram of the lubrication system to confirm the driver's side cam gets oil first, thus the first slug of aerated oil (indicated by the P014, P0302, P0306 codes). Tempting as it is to start throwing parts at it (replacing all the solenoids, the oil pressure sensor, and oil valve filters without some more investigation, I plan to be deliberate in my approach. The VVT system has me curious simply because I've not worked on one of those before. What I am hoping to avoid is pulling the heads (darn, honey, I've got to rebuild this motor wink wink) at this time. Hopefully winter will ease up a bit in the coming weeks or this is a spring project. Alaska? Anchorage. Thanksgiving w/family.
 

· just a nobody
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I couldn't tell you other than that the oil was very dirty after a 60 mile round trip. I think the aeration issue comes in to play as the higher oil levels results in churning (foaming) from the connecting rods stirring it up.
Are you using the Castrol oil in the other cars as well? How are the condition of the oil in the other cars, dirty as well?
 

· just a nobody
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Have you remove and inspect the oil filter in the 4Runner again?
Reason for asking, it takes less than 10 psi for the oil pressure switch to turn off the warning light, but you indicated that the warning light had been on.
In theory, even if the oil had been aerated it would still circulate through the engine, but easily compressed due to the air mixed, which would probably cause the light to flicker on and off.
If the light stayed on solid, it would mean the engine had completely lost oil pressure; the oil pressure spec for the engine is 4.2 psi at idle.
Would suggest doing a oil pressure test with an external gauge.
 

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Rookie mistake. Changing the oil in all of the cars. Different types,different brands, different volumes and doing the 4Runner last. 2010 SR5 with 197k on the odometer. Just finished a flawless coast to coast road trip with no issues, the rig ran (note past tense) flawlessly. I'm using Castrol 0-20 Extended Maximum Performance full synthetic. Add full jug and draw down the second jug until there is 1.5 quarts left in the gallon jug bottle. No issue with the math. Close up shop for the day. Drive to town, the dash board lights up with the slippery road warning, the red oil (magic lantern), and the engine warning light. Limped home, checked for leaks (found none), checked oil level. Way over the line. Found the oil jug-it contains 5 quarts,not 4. What a damned idiot. Drained the new oil, it seemed a bit dark for fresh oil, and added 6.5 quarts of fresh oil. THAT part, the oil level is resolved. Put the code reader on the rig. Pulled P0011, P014, P0021, P0022, and P0024. All related the VTT system(?). The engine starts, runs rough, and has at least one (lightly) tapping valve. The drive into town was about 60 miles round trip. My questions: Did I destroy this engine? Did I destroy the solenoids? With nearly 200k on the clock is it even worth saving? I have several MGBs so am sort of a fan of automotive lost causes.
I thought that modern automotive oil filters had a relief valve built in. If yes, the higher oil pressures required to "blow out" seals and ruin other hydraulics should not occur. I don't see how overfilling of the crankcase, unless of course the oil pressure flooded the valve covers and started out the cover gaskets, would occurr. The oil dipstick would blow out its tube I think before you damaged any hydraulics in the engine. The oil would fill up into the lower cylinder areas until it compressed the air in the volume under the pistons and stop the oil from rising any further - Until the engine is cranked and then the oil would push up and down the cylinder walls as the pistons moved - but, what exactly would be damaged by the oil pressure??? I know everyone always says,
Don't overfill the oil level...... But, what would be damaged??? The low oil pressure light in this case is either false OR, the switch picked a bad time to die. Anyway - why are you driving the vehicle around with the oil pressure light on? Change it out and check if the light is out with the engine running, on with the engine NOT running and ignition on. Wish you the best with this and hope to see some more comments. I'm going back to see if any of your comments reveal any answers.
 
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