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After nearly five years of ownership, my Temp/Compass display finally crapped out due to the bad solder joint on the 510 resistor. Took me less than half an hour to pull the console, re-solder the joint, and reinstall the console back in the truck!
 

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Well after 6.5 years and 75,000 miles my temp / compass finally went out. Bought a soldering iron and some solder and it only took 5 minutes plus disassembly and assembly time. Glad I'd seen this thread on the forum when I was more of a lurker.
 

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I may be able to offer some advice on this one.

I bought my truck used and it had the temp/compass guage but it didn't work. I figured since it was the one part of the truck that didn't work that I could live with it, but sure enough I got curious and took it apart a few days later to see if I could find out what was going on.

When I tore it apart I found that the resistors on the top left of the board are contact not pin style and when laid on the board there is nothing holding it in except that solder. What I found was that the solder could not hold up to the high temps involved. If you take it apart and look you can see the solder is a "flat crackly faded silver" not a smooth finish like it should be. This solder had overheated and let my resistor fall a little so that one side was not connected anymore. After re-soldering it works like it should from the factory. If you look at the picture on the top page the resistor has a "510" labeled on the top in white and a black background.

This is what I would check first, but it may have just been mine and not a common theme.

Hope this helps, cause it's an easy fix with some nicer solder.

Also, mine is a 2005 so they may have modified the solder mix in the circuit board since then.
 

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Mine went out about a week ago. Didn't realize I was so attached to the temp until it was gone. Thanks to all for the pics and info. Took me about 1/2 hour and it's all back together and working. All I did was add some solder. :thanks::rockon:
 

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hey everyone,

I've done this fix twice before but now I cannot bring it back to life. I've measured the resistance at other points on the board and the "510" and "181" resistors are properly soldered. I was wondering if someone with a working board can do me favor and measure the resistance between the 2 points in this picture...(this is not mine, kudos to the person that posted it)



I'm getting around 100 ohms and am wondering if I accidentally shorted something after soldering multiple times. Everything else on the board looks OK. Has anyone had temp/compass problems caused by something other than the resistor(s) falling off? Thanks! :thanks:
 

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Yesterday we bought a 2006 Tacoma with a broken display. Dealer flatly refused to fix it. Now I know why.

Anyway, it took me twice as long to read through this thread than it did to fix the problem--which took less than 30 minutes.

It sure helps to have some soldering experience, and also a good soldering iron designed for use on small electronic components. A good flux-filled solder also helps. At one time in my career, I was an R & D technician, and did tons of soldering. Many thousands of little connections--came in handy--some things you don't forget.

The display works fine now. My fingers are crossed though.
 

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J.O.A.T, Master of none
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Hey, if it breaks again, you just fix it again. Mine went out 3 times so far in 171K. My background is Electronics too so it's not that I'm doing a bad job, it's just the vibration and probably extreme temps of the summer that cause it to break.

I don't think I'd be too happy if my dealer refused to fix it when I just bought the truck. For him it s a few minutes and a replacement module.
 

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Yesterday we bought a 2006 Tacoma with a broken display. Dealer flatly refused to fix it. Now I know why.

Anyway, it took me twice as long to read through this thread than it did to fix the problem--which took less than 30 minutes.

It sure helps to have some soldering experience, and also a good soldering iron designed for use on small electronic components. A good flux-filled solder also helps. At one time in my career, I was an R & D technician, and did tons of soldering. Many thousands of little connections--came in handy--some things you don't forget.

The display works fine now. My fingers are crossed though.
I don't want to jinx myself but after 50k mine has been okay so far.
 

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I don't think I'd be too happy if my dealer refused to fix it when I just bought the truck. For him it s a few minutes and a replacement module.
That's what happens when you grind 'em down far enough on the price that they start squeeling like the pigs they are--if you know what I mean.....:D
 

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Unnoticeable disconnection

Excellent pictures!!

I just completed my resoldering and now works perfect.

NOTE: My old solder was not nearly as noticeable, if at all. With the naked eye all seemed fine but with a closer look you can see the resistor had disconnected from the factory solder. Threw on a new bead and it works like new.


Thanks a lot,

For others to see I took pictures...

First I took out the screw behind the sunglass case, and then pulled down on the front of the overhead console by the temp gauge until these little metal clips popped off.


Then I pulled the console down, disconnected the wires, and removed the temp gauge. Sure enough, the solder had broken off and the resister was loose...



I re-soldered it... it's not pretty but it works. This was the first time I ever really soldered anything.



Put it all back together



and put it back in




Works perfectly!

 

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Christian Pastor
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Just fixed mine today and fixed a friends as well. I have an 07' with 36k on it and it went out a few weeks ago. Sure enough, on one of the 510 circuits there was a hairline crack. I re-soldered all 4 corners and it worked great afterwards. A friend found out what I did, brought his Tacoma over and did the same thing too.
 

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I went to check the temperature today and it was blank. Thought to myself. Gonna have to re-soldered it this weekend. Looked up out of habit a few minutes later and it was working again. Now i'm amused. The rest of my drive home from work I watched as intermittently started to go on and off. :)
 

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Crud. Mine went out a 3rd time a few weeks ago, and I could not solder it back together this time. Sent it out to
www.autoclockrepair.com

Got it back, works just fine. Slightly under 2 weeks I think door to door, including shipping. He can't offer a lifetime warranty on his repair since I butchered it before, but I can live with that.

Reasonable cost ($37) plus outbound shipping to him, and no more gaping hole in my headliner anymore.
 
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