I've been working on this install for 3 days off and on and as of an hour ago I'm FINALLY done (except for cleaning up my mess).
I plan on a detailed write-up after I get back from vacation, the main reason for putting this in, but for now here are a few details and some pictures. In the mean time if any has any questions post them here or shoot me a PM.
Vehicle: 2005 Highlander V6 2WD, no sunroof
Hardware:
Alpine PKG-RSE2 10.2" ceiling mount DVD player
iPod aux input
ton of other misc stuff for the install, I'll detail later
Quick Summary:
I'm not going to lie, this wasn't easy to install. I searched the web for a while looking at all DVD installs and there wasn't much data or DIYs out there, none for the Highlander. I'm not going to say anyone shouldn't attempt it but it takes a lot of dismantling of the interior to pull the headliner down enough to get the cables up there. There was also some custom work to make a rear brace for the mounting bracket and a ton of thought and time when into figuring out how to run the cables, mounting space for the bracket and how to get power easily and safely. Cutting the headliner was the most nerve racking part of the whole job. No going back after that cut is made. I must have measured 50 times. I'm extremely anal about electrical/electronics work and everything dealing with my cars in general so I'm sure the average joe/installer shop could do it in half the time, but I put the quality of my job against most of them. :thumbsup:
Overall it turned out great. The Alpine has a beautiful picture and the iPod input will be a great convenience on our next road trip for my 4 yr old.
Here are a few pictures to get started. Again, I'll provide more install details in the next few weeks. Hopefully they'll save the next guy a lot of time.
Enjoy!
Installed
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Aux Input for iPod and the iPod connected
![]()
UPDATE: 11/1/09 - Here is some additional info.
Headliner & Trim Removal
Tools & Materials
10mm, 14mm sockets & wrench to remove trim and seat
Flat and Phillips head screwdrivers
Fish tape or coat hanger to run wires
Electrical tape to run wires and secure cables
Box cutter with a new blade to cut headliner
Pencil to mark cut lines
Scissors to trim roof insulation
Flashlight
In order to route the cables effectively you’ll need to partially pull down the headliner. Not as easy as you would think since the headliner is fairly ridged. To gain access through the sides I pulled off the A, B, and C pillar trim, upper seat belt anchors, grab handles, overhead lights, visors, and door moldings. This takes some patience, time, and the service manual section on headliner removal is a big help. I also pulled out the passenger front seat, passenger side door sill, both side trim panels in the passenger foot-well area, and pulled down the glove box to have easy access to route the FM modulator and aux A/V in cables. You’ll also need to pull out the coin holder, and trim panel below the steering wheel to gain access to power connections at the fuse box.
I have some pictures of misc trim removed. If anyone is interested shoot me a PM or email.
Power Connectors for Alpine PKG-RSE2
Parts
Misc: solder, flux, heat shrink, tie wraps, cable wrap, electrical tape, 1/16” spade lug, 1/4" ring terminal, 5A fuses, multimeter, heatgun or lighter, wire strippers, wire cutters, needle nose pliers
Power cable: 15’ 16g 3 conductor power cable from Monoprice (5301). Note: you could easily use an 18g for this application (5281)
Fuse Box connectors: (2) Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Fuse Tap from Autozone
PIN 1, Yellow Wire
Connects: Constant 12v source
Purpose: Provide low current power to memory and LED lights
Voltage Source: unused Fuse Connector – FUEL OPN (row 3, column 4)
PIN 2, Red Wire
Connects: Switched 12v source (ignition)
Purpose: Provides power to DVD player & monitor
Voltage Source: unused Fuse Connector – [/] (row 1, column 2)
PIN 3, Black Wire
Connects: Chassis ground
Purpose: unit ground
Ground Source: anywhere there is a solid chassis ground point. I used the knee brace mount hole right below the fuse box
PIN 4, Green Wire
Connects: Door signal
Purpose: Turns overhead light on/off with door (just like the OEM dome light)
Signal Source: Center wire of the original dome connector, red wire (polarity -, door open signal 0v)
Center Dome Light Wiring
White: constant 12v
Red: 0v open, 12v closed (time delay)
White/Black: ground
Fuse Box and Labels
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Connection Locations
![]()
Power Cable at Fuse Box and Fuse Tap
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Wiring harness soldered to power cable
![]()
Starting to pull cables through
![]()
Mounting Bracket
Tools and Materials
(3) 1.25" #8 sheet metal screws
(3) .5" spacers for front of bracket
(6) #8 star lock washers
(3) 1" wood screws
(1) 6 x 1.5 x 1.31 wood
(1) Permatex Epoxy
(1) Clear Silicone
(1) Sandpaper
(1) 1/8" drill bit
(1) drill bit depth stop collar
(1) drill
Important Dimensions
Bottom of cross brace to roof: 0.5”
Bottom of headliner to roof (front): 1.5”
Bottom of headliner to roof (rear): 1.65”
Alpine Mounting Bracket Thickness: 0.16”
Plastic standoffs on bottom of Alpine DVD player: 0.05”
The DVD mounting bracket took a little effort. After removing the dome light, and carefully measuring the location of the bracket, I traced around the bracket and made the cut. Be careful when cutting not to cut any wires above the headliner. After the headliner is cut and removed you’ll need to cut some of the insulation away to have access to the roof skin. There is only one brace in the roof connecting the B pillars, which is not enough to support the DVD player so a rear brace had to be made. I cut a piece of 2x4 to 6x1.5x1.31 to epoxy to the roof. Sand the area where the wood brace is to be epoxied. Epoxy the rear brace, provide support (I used an adjustable mop handle) and let it cure overnight or for as long as the directions recommend. Mark screw locations for the brace and drill 1/8” pilot holes (for #8 screws) the correct depth. Caution: use a drill bit depth stop collar or something similar to prevent drilling through your roof. Measure carefully!! Attach the bracket. Note the roof brace for the front is not thick enough to drop the mounting bracket down far enough for mounting the DVD player. I had to use ½” spacers. The rear wooden brace was made to the correct dimensions so you can screw directly into. I used some star lock washers and a dab of silicone over the screws for an extra bit of security. After the brace is secure, connect your cables and test the DVD player one last time before securing. If all OK mount the Alpine DVD player with the 4 screws provided. My 3rd hand to hold the DVD player in place while I secured it was provided by Mr. Clean.
Roof Diagram
![]()
Cross Section Drawing
![]()
Taping Off Bracket Location to Check for Accuracy
![]()
Final Outline for the Big Cut
![]()
First Cut of Headliner
![]()
Final Cut to Remove Insulation (note the 3 drill holes in brace)
![]()
Mounting Bracket in Place
![]()
Some Help from Mr. Clean to Finish the Mount
![]()
I plan on a detailed write-up after I get back from vacation, the main reason for putting this in, but for now here are a few details and some pictures. In the mean time if any has any questions post them here or shoot me a PM.
Vehicle: 2005 Highlander V6 2WD, no sunroof
Hardware:
Alpine PKG-RSE2 10.2" ceiling mount DVD player
iPod aux input
ton of other misc stuff for the install, I'll detail later
Quick Summary:
I'm not going to lie, this wasn't easy to install. I searched the web for a while looking at all DVD installs and there wasn't much data or DIYs out there, none for the Highlander. I'm not going to say anyone shouldn't attempt it but it takes a lot of dismantling of the interior to pull the headliner down enough to get the cables up there. There was also some custom work to make a rear brace for the mounting bracket and a ton of thought and time when into figuring out how to run the cables, mounting space for the bracket and how to get power easily and safely. Cutting the headliner was the most nerve racking part of the whole job. No going back after that cut is made. I must have measured 50 times. I'm extremely anal about electrical/electronics work and everything dealing with my cars in general so I'm sure the average joe/installer shop could do it in half the time, but I put the quality of my job against most of them. :thumbsup:
Overall it turned out great. The Alpine has a beautiful picture and the iPod input will be a great convenience on our next road trip for my 4 yr old.
Here are a few pictures to get started. Again, I'll provide more install details in the next few weeks. Hopefully they'll save the next guy a lot of time.
Enjoy!
Installed
Aux Input for iPod and the iPod connected
UPDATE: 11/1/09 - Here is some additional info.
Headliner & Trim Removal
Tools & Materials
10mm, 14mm sockets & wrench to remove trim and seat
Flat and Phillips head screwdrivers
Fish tape or coat hanger to run wires
Electrical tape to run wires and secure cables
Box cutter with a new blade to cut headliner
Pencil to mark cut lines
Scissors to trim roof insulation
Flashlight
In order to route the cables effectively you’ll need to partially pull down the headliner. Not as easy as you would think since the headliner is fairly ridged. To gain access through the sides I pulled off the A, B, and C pillar trim, upper seat belt anchors, grab handles, overhead lights, visors, and door moldings. This takes some patience, time, and the service manual section on headliner removal is a big help. I also pulled out the passenger front seat, passenger side door sill, both side trim panels in the passenger foot-well area, and pulled down the glove box to have easy access to route the FM modulator and aux A/V in cables. You’ll also need to pull out the coin holder, and trim panel below the steering wheel to gain access to power connections at the fuse box.
I have some pictures of misc trim removed. If anyone is interested shoot me a PM or email.
Power Connectors for Alpine PKG-RSE2
Parts
Misc: solder, flux, heat shrink, tie wraps, cable wrap, electrical tape, 1/16” spade lug, 1/4" ring terminal, 5A fuses, multimeter, heatgun or lighter, wire strippers, wire cutters, needle nose pliers
Power cable: 15’ 16g 3 conductor power cable from Monoprice (5301). Note: you could easily use an 18g for this application (5281)
Fuse Box connectors: (2) Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Fuse Tap from Autozone
PIN 1, Yellow Wire
Connects: Constant 12v source
Purpose: Provide low current power to memory and LED lights
Voltage Source: unused Fuse Connector – FUEL OPN (row 3, column 4)
PIN 2, Red Wire
Connects: Switched 12v source (ignition)
Purpose: Provides power to DVD player & monitor
Voltage Source: unused Fuse Connector – [/] (row 1, column 2)
PIN 3, Black Wire
Connects: Chassis ground
Purpose: unit ground
Ground Source: anywhere there is a solid chassis ground point. I used the knee brace mount hole right below the fuse box
PIN 4, Green Wire
Connects: Door signal
Purpose: Turns overhead light on/off with door (just like the OEM dome light)
Signal Source: Center wire of the original dome connector, red wire (polarity -, door open signal 0v)
Center Dome Light Wiring
White: constant 12v
Red: 0v open, 12v closed (time delay)
White/Black: ground
Fuse Box and Labels
Connection Locations
Power Cable at Fuse Box and Fuse Tap
Wiring harness soldered to power cable
Starting to pull cables through
Mounting Bracket
Tools and Materials
(3) 1.25" #8 sheet metal screws
(3) .5" spacers for front of bracket
(6) #8 star lock washers
(3) 1" wood screws
(1) 6 x 1.5 x 1.31 wood
(1) Permatex Epoxy
(1) Clear Silicone
(1) Sandpaper
(1) 1/8" drill bit
(1) drill bit depth stop collar
(1) drill
Important Dimensions
Bottom of cross brace to roof: 0.5”
Bottom of headliner to roof (front): 1.5”
Bottom of headliner to roof (rear): 1.65”
Alpine Mounting Bracket Thickness: 0.16”
Plastic standoffs on bottom of Alpine DVD player: 0.05”
The DVD mounting bracket took a little effort. After removing the dome light, and carefully measuring the location of the bracket, I traced around the bracket and made the cut. Be careful when cutting not to cut any wires above the headliner. After the headliner is cut and removed you’ll need to cut some of the insulation away to have access to the roof skin. There is only one brace in the roof connecting the B pillars, which is not enough to support the DVD player so a rear brace had to be made. I cut a piece of 2x4 to 6x1.5x1.31 to epoxy to the roof. Sand the area where the wood brace is to be epoxied. Epoxy the rear brace, provide support (I used an adjustable mop handle) and let it cure overnight or for as long as the directions recommend. Mark screw locations for the brace and drill 1/8” pilot holes (for #8 screws) the correct depth. Caution: use a drill bit depth stop collar or something similar to prevent drilling through your roof. Measure carefully!! Attach the bracket. Note the roof brace for the front is not thick enough to drop the mounting bracket down far enough for mounting the DVD player. I had to use ½” spacers. The rear wooden brace was made to the correct dimensions so you can screw directly into. I used some star lock washers and a dab of silicone over the screws for an extra bit of security. After the brace is secure, connect your cables and test the DVD player one last time before securing. If all OK mount the Alpine DVD player with the 4 screws provided. My 3rd hand to hold the DVD player in place while I secured it was provided by Mr. Clean.
Roof Diagram
Cross Section Drawing
Taping Off Bracket Location to Check for Accuracy
Final Outline for the Big Cut
First Cut of Headliner
Final Cut to Remove Insulation (note the 3 drill holes in brace)
Mounting Bracket in Place
Some Help from Mr. Clean to Finish the Mount
