I recently installed a Rippmods S/C on my Gen 3 camry, before when stock the car did not overheat, after the install the car is overheating now. I have replaced coolant temp sensor, coolant fan switch, lower temp thermo, I thought it could be a blown head gasket, compression checks out fine. Yesterday I removed the thermostat to see if the car would run normal. And it still overheated. The car is not burning any coolant. and everything checks out fine. The radiator does have some build up but could it cause a restriction in the flow. The water pump works and pressure it built up. The radiator cap checks fine. I am stomped about this, anyone ever had a wierd overheating issue before? Is there a aluminum radiator made for Gen 3 camries? I heard from someone before that a radiator made for a supra can fit in a camry. I was looking over the specs of the Supra radiator compared to the camry and its similiar. The stock radiator is a 1 row, and the supra radiator comes 2&3 row. I guess I would change out the radiator and hope for the best. The Rippmods sds is great, sounds increditable. Boosting at 5.5 lbs. stock internals with a rebuild stage 2 head.
Overhearting Problem after S/C installation...
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Does the radiator get hot and do the fans kick on?
Well you are boosted now. You have more air and less fuel, so you are probably running lean, hence overheating. You will need bigger injectors, high flow fuel pump, and a piggyback fuel computer to enrichen it just right. A 02 wideband meter would also be nice. 
solution: go to a junkyard and look for a supra 7mgte motor take the fpr out thread your fuel rail to fit it and don't forget to take the injectors buy the fuel pump for that supra and change yours ...problem solved
i am running supra injectors off a 7mge, and a fpr that comes with the rippmods sds, and a 3sgte map sensor, the fpr is set at 40psi on idle, if anything its running rich already, the fuel pump has been upgraded with a walbro 255 pump, timing is set at 8 degrees. it overheats on idle, and when I hit the gas the temp goes downs, and when at boost the temp goes down. the radiator hose was off for a while during the installation for a few days, and empty with no coolant, is it possible that some of the build up in there dried up and is cause a insufficient flow. I am almost sure the car is running rich more than lean. I will double check again, just incase. the radiator was flushed before the complete install. and there didn't seem like any clogs within the radiator. Only running 5.5psi of boost.
^ that is a noodle scratcher....you've basically done all the recommended upgrades short of your actual cooling system
does your coolant bubble in the overflow tank when your car overheats?
have you tried flushing your cooling system and then refilling it?
does your coolant bubble in the overflow tank when your car overheats?
have you tried flushing your cooling system and then refilling it?
There are bubbles when it overheats coming from the overflow, done a flush a few times. yup tell me about it, me and a few buddies from work been staring at it for days now, with a cigerette in one and hand and a corona in the other...errr...maybe if I have enough ppl to stare at it, it would get started and work hahaha...sad part is that I work at a mechanic and 4 other guys work has a mechanic at a toyota dealer. Brought the car to the dealer even, and they were all stomp, they said it looks amazing with the blower and all. but no idea why its overheating, tested everything that can be tested. compression is good, leak down test is good, even check the exhaust temp in all cylinders to see if theres ay variation between them. Nothing signs of abnormal things happening, the car is running rich not lean, had a 5 gas analyzer on it, and its definately rich. Been contacting the rippmods people and they are stomped also. I am borderline ready to put another radiator in for shits and giggles and see what happens but worried that would not solve the problem and then what? back to square one. one fact forgot to say we even tried deleting the s/c and just letting the car run stock as is, with no blower still overheating meaning that the blower has no factor in it overheating.
quite possibly the radiator is gunked up then- usually when the coolant overflow tank starts bubbling it means that you're low on coolant/water
I'd say remove it and then take an estimate on the weight
if even after it's been drained it weighs more than a stock rad, then parts of it is gunked up and the coolant probably isn't going to all the fins, thus failing to utilize all it's cooling abilities
if you're thinking about swapping in a new rad anyway, I'd recommend that you may as well try a performance double thick rad and see if that will help solve your cooling problems
good luck :thumbup:
I'd say remove it and then take an estimate on the weight
if even after it's been drained it weighs more than a stock rad, then parts of it is gunked up and the coolant probably isn't going to all the fins, thus failing to utilize all it's cooling abilities
if you're thinking about swapping in a new rad anyway, I'd recommend that you may as well try a performance double thick rad and see if that will help solve your cooling problems
good luck :thumbup:
If your resorvoir is full and you start it up and are getting bubbles in it then more then likely it is one of two things Head gasket or cracked head! How good is the warranty one the rebuilt head? The only thing that puzzles me is you said it overheats at idle but if you rev it up it cools down? Does it stay cool then or start rising?
Oops I just re read your post and saw you said bubbles when hot which I presume is boiling from the heat.
Still thinking.
Gary
The only thing that puzzles me is you said it overheats at idle but if you rev it up it cools down? Does it stay cool then or start rising?Oops I just re read your post and saw you said bubbles when hot which I presume is boiling from the heat.
Still thinking.
Gary
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I think its a radiator problem, how old is that radiator?
The radiator is 6 months old, OEM toyota one. The head is rebuilt ported and polished, its was done by a well known machine shop. The foreman at the toyota dealership that my buddies work at knows the owner and the owners mainly deals with mustangs, builds pro drag mustangs, with diesel turbos and stuff, crazy stuff. so I think the head is good. basically all new valvetrain. the whole upper head is new with at most 1000 miles or so. Before heading back home from the garage in defeat, tried one more thing, disconnected the upper hose, and drained all the coolant, ran hot water through the coolant inlet slowly and see if the water pump was pushing enough out the upper hose, the water pump is functioning, at idle it would medorately push water at higher rpms it would gush out. I don't think the water pump is shot, while replacing the head/ t-belt water pump was checked also, a month ago I didn't think I was going to keep the car. I was planning on selling it so I didn't change the pump, if it isn't broke don't fix it, heheh...I'm probably going to replace the radiator more than likely next week when I have time. I doubled checked today while I was at the toyota dealership messing around with the buddies that work there. and surprising the supra radiator would work. so I am going to order a 3 row aluminum radiator off a supra and toss it into the car. and if that don't work I guess have to tear the sucker all apart and see whats happening.
I am sure you and your buddies have already done the basic checks... Just a few suggestions. When the car overheats, have you checked the actual temperature of the coolant when it is overheating? Or is the overheating caused by air in the system? If the coolant comes out really hot from the head/block, that could indicate a blockage in the cooling system.
Changing the radiator wouldn't do much if the problem is caused by air in the system. With air in the system, you would begin a series of checks for leaks in the system, from hoses to clamps to headgasket all the way to the cylinder head. Even sometimes when a head is freshly ported and polished by a very reputable shop, a head porter would not know if the head has a minor crack in it.
A compression test would not be able to 100% tell if there is a bad headgasket. If you are able to do a compression test when the engine is really hot, that would increase the chance in finding a bad headgasket which only leaks when the engine is hot.
Most inportantly, you must find out if the overheating is actually caused by hot coolant, or air in the system
Changing the radiator wouldn't do much if the problem is caused by air in the system. With air in the system, you would begin a series of checks for leaks in the system, from hoses to clamps to headgasket all the way to the cylinder head. Even sometimes when a head is freshly ported and polished by a very reputable shop, a head porter would not know if the head has a minor crack in it.
A compression test would not be able to 100% tell if there is a bad headgasket. If you are able to do a compression test when the engine is really hot, that would increase the chance in finding a bad headgasket which only leaks when the engine is hot.
Most inportantly, you must find out if the overheating is actually caused by hot coolant, or air in the system
hmm thats one thing I didn't check, I would do that tommorrow after work, checking the temp of the coolant, the weird thing about this situation is that its overheats on idle, then when the fan kicks on when the temp gauge is 3/4 to red and its drops, then its overheats agains and then goes down, when the car is sitting in park, when the car is actually cruising it does overheats till a while later or if I'm on the brake or a sudden stop the temperature jumps up, then when the boost kicks in around 3000 rpm and max boost the temperature drops down to normal. I'll double check all clamps and hoses, and do a compression test again while engine is hot. The car is running regular green stuff. Thanks all....
One more thought
I have not played with boosted rice before but here are somethings to check.
The radiator is a heat exchanger. Measure and get a temperature differential between the top and bottom hose. The typical stat is 180 degrees F. So one would expect to see coolant flow when the stat opens and it should be about 180.... Now if the return temp is only 5 degrees coolor and the fans are on. Then the core is not transfering heat to the ambient air.
Does it have AC? Can you get the other fan to come on with the key to keep it cool or something along those lines?
Do you have access to a PC and software? Like it was said earlier, any lean codition will make heat. Retarded timing will make heat. If the CAM timing is off you could get a false feeling of having the ignition timing being dead on (at 8 deg) but the cam timing is off and this too could make heat at idle.
Anyway - you need to know the air fule ratio while its running. knowing this will tell you about your fuel system and at a minimum tell you what is NOT the problem. I think 24:1.
Do some checking and let us know - but I doubt your radiator is the cause. That may get you by for now, but what about summer?
Don't give up...
/randy
I have not played with boosted rice before but here are somethings to check.
The radiator is a heat exchanger. Measure and get a temperature differential between the top and bottom hose. The typical stat is 180 degrees F. So one would expect to see coolant flow when the stat opens and it should be about 180.... Now if the return temp is only 5 degrees coolor and the fans are on. Then the core is not transfering heat to the ambient air.
Does it have AC? Can you get the other fan to come on with the key to keep it cool or something along those lines?
Do you have access to a PC and software? Like it was said earlier, any lean codition will make heat. Retarded timing will make heat. If the CAM timing is off you could get a false feeling of having the ignition timing being dead on (at 8 deg) but the cam timing is off and this too could make heat at idle.
Anyway - you need to know the air fule ratio while its running. knowing this will tell you about your fuel system and at a minimum tell you what is NOT the problem. I think 24:1.
Do some checking and let us know - but I doubt your radiator is the cause. That may get you by for now, but what about summer?
Don't give up...
/randy
If the car originally came with Red coolant, that may be part of your problem.Camdaddy said:
Your thermo fan switch might also be busted. Try getting one from a junkyard and replacing that... Or maybe just hotwiring your fans for now to check if that solves the problem.
-Charlie
The car came with green coolant, the fan switch has been changed. Checked the temperature of the coolant from the top hose and the bottom and its 15 degrees different, that should be right, right? since the upper hose is hot coolant from the engine and the lower one is already cooled since the flow is from the top to the bottom, also checked the temp of the radiator top, middle, and bottom. and theres a temp different also, hotter coolant from the top and then toward the middle is a little cooler and then at the bottom is way cooler than the top. I am going to delete the S/C tommorrow and set timing at stock, and see if it would overheat. because I am starting to lean toward a timing issue which is related to a lean condition. see what happens. I ordered a new 3 row aluminum radiator which was ment for a supra but would work on the Gen 3 camry. I t should be here by next week. Also retested the compression after the engine was hot, and the compression checked out okay. so the headgasket and crackhead or bad head theory is out. so the only things left are lean conditions, clogged radiator, timing issue. A older tech at toyota told me that sometimes belt tension can cause a overheating problem. Makes sense since the S/C is a extra load and if belt tension is wrong could make the engine work harder, correct me if I'm wrong on this. He told me that he had a overheating problem with a older mr2 with a s/c and it was because of belt tension. Still holding my breath and waiting and waiting, trying to figure all this out, so the car can be driven....err...Thanks again
StillThinking.....
So What do you know?
I was thinking about this whole SC thing and a couple of thoughts come to mind:
Do you show boost at Idle?
How is the ECU supposed to compensate for the SC? I mean your ECU is stock NA ECU, Yes/No?
And the MAFS is still in front of the SC right. But the vaccum sensor on the manifold side of the intake is it from a SC engine or is from the NA engine?
I guess the ulitmate question is this: What was changed from stock as far as sensors and modules to compensate for positve pressues created by your SC installation?
I could understand at RPM where it is making power that it could run lean as the injectors are only programmed to feed so much fuel but you have added more air to the ratio which would make it lean under boost conditions.
Maybe you should put a clutch on your SC like the one in Mad Max (the black Interceptor Ford Falcon XB GT Coupe driven by Mel Gibson)???
haha
Let us know...
ra
So What do you know?
I was thinking about this whole SC thing and a couple of thoughts come to mind:
Do you show boost at Idle?
How is the ECU supposed to compensate for the SC? I mean your ECU is stock NA ECU, Yes/No?
And the MAFS is still in front of the SC right. But the vaccum sensor on the manifold side of the intake is it from a SC engine or is from the NA engine?
I guess the ulitmate question is this: What was changed from stock as far as sensors and modules to compensate for positve pressues created by your SC installation?
I could understand at RPM where it is making power that it could run lean as the injectors are only programmed to feed so much fuel but you have added more air to the ratio which would make it lean under boost conditions.
Maybe you should put a clutch on your SC like the one in Mad Max (the black Interceptor Ford Falcon XB GT Coupe driven by Mel Gibson)???
haha
Let us know...
ra
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