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Overheating? Maybe?

571 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Vegatbles
I have a 1991 Corolla SR5 and recently it's been having a problem I can't quite put my finger on. After a while of driving, I come to stop or slow down, and once I start going again my rpm
drops immediately and it stalls. Most times it won't turn back on right after it turns off. I have a strong feeling it's overheating because the engine bay is always extremely hot when I open it. Although, my coolant is always full and my temp gauge never goes above the half way mark (haven't seen it go above half ever since I got the car). I'm completely clueless so any suggestions help.
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1991 Corolla DLX 4AFE, 1994 Camry LE 5SFE, 1995 Avalon XLS 1MZFE, 2004 Sienna XLE/LTD, 2011 Camry LE
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For now we’ll trust the Dash Temp gauge. If you have A.C., do both radiator and condenser fans come on when you select ON? Also, check coolant level in radiator and overflow tank when engine is COLD/OFF. Make sure coolant system is full and is not plain water. And check for coolant leaks where it’s parked. If all that checks out, jumper the DLC port in the engine bay and check the dashboard MIL for any stored codes. FYI, my 91 4AFE Corolla always feels hot too when opening the hood, especially now since it’s over 90°F here in the Midwest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Both fans turn on when I turn on my A.C. and I'll check those coolant levels when it cools down. Although, I have a pretty gnarly exhaust leak right under the headers because they're aftermarket. It's gotten to the point where there's a huge black burn mark on my radiator. I'm not sure it is that because it's been there since day one and this problem has only started recently but just to be sure I will change that gasket as soon as I can just in case so I don't waste your time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's been a while but I was able to fix the exhaust leak. The exhaust sounds better and the engine bay doesn't get as hot, but my problem was never solved. Although, I snooped around my engine and found this vacuum line. I'm not sure exactly what it is or where it should be connected to, but I covered it to purposely choke the engine. The way it stalled was the exact same way it has been stalling. I am way in over my head on this so any help is much much appreciated.
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Do you still have the vacuum diagram sticker on the underside of the hood?

That looks like the pipe should connect to the air cleaner box to provide clean air to the AC and PS idle-up valves, otherwise you're sucking in unfiltered air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That would make a lot of sense. Also yes I have it, and just to make sure, all I have to do is connect the appropriate hose from that vacuum line from earlier into the air intake? I have an aftermarket intake that came with a giant hole on the side so it would make sense if that's what I had to do.
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Yes, just hook it up after the air filter before the throttle.

I don't think it should be causing any problems with the way the engine runs because it's not a direct vacuum to the intake, but it is bringing in unfiltered air like when you turn the power steering and get idle-up, so you don't want to leave it the way it is.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So an update, my problem was never fixed. The car ran exceptionally when I test drove it and the week proceeding, but the stalling came back with a vengeance. I'm starting college soon so I'll need a reliable car to take me every day. As much as I don't want to get rid of it, I'm afraid that I might have to sell it if it gets bad enough. That being said, does anyone know of any good mechanics in the central Florida area? My dad and I are completely at our wit's end with this car and at least want to try to get it up to snuff.
 
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