Toyota Nation Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
1999 Camry with the 1ZMFE V6. First code was P0340, put a new plug in because the OEM one was crushed. Still had the code, tested the Sensor, 1210 OHM reading, wiring was good (no short or open). Finally gave a new sensor a shot(I was guessing at this point). Reset, and drop, yeh! No light right? Wrong! Dirty F*cker is back, with a harder problem!

Now the Cam sensor is working, it's able to test the knock sensors, and one of those dirty whores is not working anymore.

Bank two Knock Sensor, what do I find out, that whore is under the intake manifold, F*ck! (WHY TOYOTA DID U NOT PUT IT ON THE BLOCK!!)

How to fix it: http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota-sienna/toyota_knock_sensor.htm

I need the diagnose info on these how to test them. Please post repair manual, I don't think swapping them to see if the problem changes to P0325 is a good idea because the time it takes to pull the manifold and all that stuff off.
 

·
Ninja wrench anywhere
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
Any reasonable testing requires an oscilloscope: See http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen4/Diagnostics.pdf page 283.

You can also check for a short between the output and ground (it's a piezo sensor, so can't really check for an open -- they always look like an open at DC), and, although the FSM doesn't mention it, you should be able to use a multimeter on a fairly sensitive scale (peak output is well under a volt) to compare the output of the two sensors when the engine is rockin' and rollin'.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes, most shops I worked at laughed at me when I asked where's your oscilloscope? I learned that in Pimp College we can check misfires and abs sensors using one. They are laughing so hard.

Is my timing retarded to the point where my gas mileage is suffering?
 

·
Stock? Blasphemy!
06 Rav4 v6
Joined
·
879 Posts
ya you will get crap gas mileage and VERY limited power when you lose a knock sensor. do what the rest of us do (myself included) and install a little jumper wire at the ECU to give the signal from the good knock sensor to the pin on the ecu for the bad one. do some searching, i bet you'll find what you need to know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hey, thanks, now i have the service manual, i just need an idea were the connect EC1 is located. I know that I can spice into the other knock sensor. Does the knock sensor have just a signal side and uses the block as a ground? I know how it works, its just been a while since my schooling in Auto, I forget all this stuff now.
 

·
Ninja wrench anywhere
Joined
·
1,522 Posts
Hey, thanks, now i have the service manual, i just need an idea were the connect EC1 is located. I know that I can spice into the other knock sensor. Does the knock sensor have just a signal side and uses the block as a ground? I know how it works, its just been a while since my schooling in Auto, I forget all this stuff now.
Location of EC1: http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen4/99EWD.pdf page 36.

Yes, the knock sensor is grounded on the block side. The signal wires themselves have grounded shields -- those are grounded to a somewhat better ground (closer to battery) than the block. Page 68 of same diagram, although you have to follow the shield ground line for a couple of pages if you want to see where it goes. Irrelevant if you're just jumpering the two knock sensor outputs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks alot man, I don't know what to say to you but thanks, your great, page numbers and everything!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Hi - had the same issue but didn't want to tear down the top of the engine. I have an easier solution. Buy the harness from toyota, purchase a knock sensor, relocate that sensor to the front of the engine - there is an 8mm threaded hole you can drill out w a 19/64 bit and tap to 10mm x 1.25 (I think - i have the tap and can check) and screw the knock sensor in. No buying gaskets and ripping off the intake manifold. Splice the harness for two sensors into the one relcoated sensor using SHEILDED wire, Just cut the plug off the harness that goes to your existing sensors. Much easier AND some say the engine will run better than original because the knock sensor can be checked for appropriate mechanical connection. If you ever blow a sensor it is a 5 minute replacement. I even have some e-bay wire left when I made my harness. I can attest to the fact the sensor still picks up knocking very well. I switched from premium back to regular gas - heard 1/2 sec of knocking - then it dialed back the timing.


FYI - If you have a 1MZFE your milage will now go to about 18 from 23 and your car will run like a dog because of the timing retardation in limp mode.

I implore you to consider this approach if you have an older car - I will repost with more info

kelly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yes, I agree Kelly, the knock sensor would have been better off being on the block. The reasoning behind having two knock sensors was to pick up any knocking from one half of the engine. If you had knocking in the rear bank of the engine, then the front knock sensor would not pick it up. If rear bank was running lean, or have excessive carbon build up, you can have knocking.


Thanks for your input!
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top