[ron815]

Hello
I have a 2002 Tacoma 4WD with about 70000 on it. About a week ago, my engine light come on and stayed on a solid yellow. I checked it out and here is the readings.
P1135 air-fuel sensor heater.
$10.
I really am hoping to fix it myself because that $10. is a joke at my local Toyota. I'm retired and can't afford a lot. I've researched it and it seems to be in front of the front catalytic converter. With a $10. estimate, it must not be the sensor itself because they are expensive. Hoping some of you had run into this problem. Any help is greatly appreciated.Thank you.

 

[BamZipPow]

Welcome to the forums!

Are there any other issues with the vehicle? Any aftermarket mods installed? Any maintenance performed prior to this issue? Has this vehicle been in an accident before?

The best thing you can do is to use an OBDII scanner that can read/log the data from the sensor. That will help narrow down whether or not it could be the wiring harness or the sensor itself. Have you inspected the wiring harness fer any issues? Snap some piccies of the O2 sensor with the associated wiring and post them. Thanks!

The dealership will fix it fer $10 or they charged you $10 to pull the code? I would guess they charged you $10 to pull the code without any other diagnostics (which is pretty fair based on their hourly rate). Just so you know, you can git AutoZone or most of the auto parts stores to pull the codes fer free. If you have a tablet or smart phone, you can pick up an OBDII dongle off of Amazon fer around $15 and use that with yer device to pull codes and capture any associated data from yer sensors.

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/p1135-code
General Fault Code for Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response - Bank 1, Sensor 1

I'm not one fer buying parts to throw at a problem without truly knowing what the problem is. Diagnostics is the key...unless you have a lot of money to throw at a problem.

 

[ron815]

Thanks for your answer. I did do a diagnosis. That's where the P1135 came from. There's no way Toyota is charging me only $10.

 

[Vibe]

Hey Ron. Any chance you're using the Torque app to read the codes?

If that is the only code you're getting my guess is you need a new upstream sensor. I would check the wiring first. Rockauto sells the Denso sensor for about $120 delivered.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

 

[ron815]

No, I used Autel and got these readings. I was hoping someone on here had the same code and how yours went.

 

[Vibe]

No, I used Autel and got these readings. I was hoping someone on here had the same code and how yours went.

You have not explained what the $10 is? We have no idea what the $10 was/is for.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

 

[BamZipPow]

Does yer Autel provide live data? What were the readings on the B1S1? Was it responding correctly or was it flatlined?

 

[chuckoff]

P1135 air-fuel sensor heater. This code 99.9% of the time is a failure of the heater part of the sensor. It can be other things but, if it comes and goes you can bet it is the sensor. a hard failure in the circuit (open/short) will cause an immediate CEL after clearing code. I am not sure without a wiring diagram but, I think the hot side of the heater circuit powers others so, a failure in that part would cause other issues. The heater circuit is there to pre-heat the sensor so that it starts reacting without waiting for the exhaust to heat it up. So, the wave form of the sensor can look good and it can still have a failing heater.

 

[ron815]

P1135 air-fuel sensor heater. This code 99.9% of the time is a failure of the heater part of the sensor. It can be other things but, if it comes and goes you can bet it is the sensor. a hard failure in the circuit (open/short) will cause an immediate CEL after clearing code. I am not sure without a wiring diagram but, I think the hot side of the heater circuit powers others so, a failure in that part would cause other issues. The heater circuit is there to pre-heat the sensor so that it starts reacting without waiting for the exhaust to heat it up. So, the wave form of the sensor can look good and it can still have a failing heater.

As I mentioned, the checker I used had a estimated $10. cost on it. I have a feeling that a new sensor will have to be bought. I've read anywhere from $80. to $200. Thanks for your and everyones help.

 

[BamZipPow]

Check on Amazon as they will probably have the best price shipped.