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97 Avalon Silver Spruce
97 Avalon
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276 Posts
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I am going to change the pad and rotors myself this week, Just wanted to know of any pointers you guys can give me? How hard is it to get the rotors off, do they usually slide right off after removing the caliper and torque plate or do they need to be knocked off with a hammer. Also, as far as putting the car on jack stands, how does one do that? Would you jack up 1 side put the jackstand underneath that side, then jack up the other side and place the jackstand under that side? Thanks, Brian
 

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Brakes

Brian - I just put front and rear pads and rotors on an 02 Avalon with 68k. second change for the front, first for the rears. The front rotors were cut for the first brake job.
The gentleman who mentioned the manual is absolutely correct. It is an easy and straightforward procedure, but it has critical torque specs that totally demand precision. MY (not nececessarily YOUR) specs were different for the torque plates front and back as well as the torque specs fore the guide pins (bolts) front and back.
The front rotors came right off, but I cleaned and used antisieze on the hub for the first brake job. The rotors were ready to be replaced (front).
The rear rotors took a "lot" to come off. The pads were totally shot but the rotors had loads of meat. We machined them and they were well within spec. (You never know).
The calipers are easily removed, the piston is easily compressed with an old pad and a C clamp, but there is a lot of hardware to be reinstalled, and disc brake grease to be placed on items to quell noise. The manuals do a good job of showing where, which side, and what type of lubricant should be used. The Dealer parts man insisted that I reuse all the hardware and NOT buy new stuff! What a shock!
Good reading and enjoy the work!:D
 

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ChiTDI said:
Brian - I just put front and rear pads and rotors on an 02 Avalon with 68k. second change for the front, first for the rears. The front rotors were cut for the first brake job.
The gentleman who mentioned the manual is absolutely correct. It is an easy and straightforward procedure, but it has critical torque specs that totally demand precision. MY (not nececessarily YOUR) specs were different for the torque plates front and back as well as the torque specs fore the guide pins (bolts) front and back.
The front rotors came right off, but I cleaned and used antisieze on the hub for the first brake job. The rotors were ready to be replaced (front).
The rear rotors took a "lot" to come off. The pads were totally shot but the rotors had loads of meat. We machined them and they were well within spec. (You never know).
The calipers are easily removed, the piston is easily compressed with an old pad and a C clamp, but there is a lot of hardware to be reinstalled, and disc brake grease to be placed on items to quell noise. The manuals do a good job of showing where, which side, and what type of lubricant should be used. The Dealer parts man insisted that I reuse all the hardware and NOT buy new stuff! What a shock!
Good reading and enjoy the work!:D
Did you machine it yourself? If so how hard is it to turn rotors? I have axis to pretty much any machining machine at school. DId you do it on a lathe or a vmc
 
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