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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought new Sienna CE.... Dealer wanted to sell me package for Paint, Underbody, Rust protections and was so pushy that I suspected something fishy and declined it....
I'm noob in everything about cars and was wondering if these protections are really needed for a new car? Should I really perform any protection?
Does Protective car wash helps again rust and stuff???
Please lhelp me know and became really concurned about it......
 

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CRESSIDA!!!
1984 Toyota Cressida
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5,632 Posts
NO, those are scams. With today's cars, you don't need this type of stuff. When we bought our Honda, they tried pushing this shit on us, too.
 

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98 Camry XLE V6
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3,116 Posts
nah ddont go for it. If you wanted something like that you can get it elsewhere and you could probably watch those people do it. And outside places could possibly offer u a better price and perhaps even more protection coverage.

But usually you dont need it. We've never used such protection and we've owned cars for over 16 years at a time. Sure there is rust and what not, but heck its not like anything is gunna break. Besides its just a minivan your not gunna go rallying or off roading with it.
 

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The paint protection is nothing more than wax. Shouldn't it be called "clearcoat protection" since that is what it is applied to? Undercoating on a modern car is actually bad for it. The plastic and tar-based sealants hold in the salt, dirt and water at the metal's surface causing MORE corrosion. It's not meant to be near any of the extremely high-heat areas of the exhaust either. Rust-protection is not needed, most surfaces are galvanized. These dealer "extras" are an expensive slap in the face after you've paid for the kick in the ass.
 

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Resident asshole
Corolla
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9,552 Posts
NO, those are scams. With today's cars, you don't need this type of stuff. When we bought our Honda, they tried pushing this shit on us, too.
Always rust proof a car, it wont last long without it.

Undercoating on a modern car is actually bad for it. The plastic and tar-based sealants hold in the salt, dirt and water at the metal's surface causing MORE corrosion. It's not meant to be near any of the extremely high-heat areas of the exhaust either. Rust-protection is not needed, most surfaces are galvanized.
D00d you're wrong there, in finland we have all cars rust proofed, and late 80's it was still mandatory by law to have your car rustproofed, guess what, those cars are generally in better condition than slightly newer ones. Galvanizing helps, yes, but what do you think happens when a stone hits and damages the galvanizing, RUST. Thats why you have protection over it.
As for undercoating being bad for modern cars, I wonder where you got that conclusion from, as car body construction hasnt changed all that much, so then that would mean that older cars would have rotted already, if what you said about it keeping the salt, dirt and water on the surface.
And who the heck would rustproof an exhaust pipe?:confused:

Then again, I wouldnt have my car rustproofed at the dealership.
 

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Flash: These Doods are wrong too, I guess
"The dealer may also try to sell you vehicle protectant ad-ons, such as Rustproofing, Fabric Sealant, and Paint Sealant. Most new cars already have a paint sealant and rustproofing so paying for them again doesn't make sense."http://autoadvice.about.com/od/buying/a/BeforeYouSign.htm
"Rustproofing scam prevention
Readers are well aware that Lemon-Aid doesn’t recommend rustproofing because of the uneven quality of the application and product."
http://www.lemonaidcars.com/update.htm
"When you go to a dealership they will have extra prices on each car that are "written in stone". These prices are normally ridiculous charges that are just there for dealer profit. These are normally in the form of delivery and handling, advertising costs, fabric coating, or rustproofing."http://www.e-cartips.com/dealer_tricks.html
"Just another comment about rust proofing....
It's a huge scam. It's NEVER been proven to work.
In fact, all new cars carry a perforation (holed through) warrantee which is usually in the area of 6 years. Do you know if you get your car rust proofed on day one, you void your factory warrantee (albeit, the rust proofer's warrantee now takes over) I don't know about you, but i would rather have a GM warrantee than a joe blow rust proofing company warrantee. You have to watch because sometimes these guys have weasel clauses written in that says if you don't take your car in for some sort of rust proofing servicing, then their warrantee is void. Most cars today have steel panels that are corrosion protected by one form or another. My car is now 5 years old (GM) and was never rust proofed when purchased new. I was underneath it the other day and other than the odd clip, there is not a spec of rust on the under carriage. I find rust proofing to be a sticky gooey mess that hardens with time and then cracks at the stress points. Water gets into the cracks and sits there or travels underneath the rust proofing making it even worse. The best recipe for a rust free car is a clean car. Wash the wheel wells frequently (hopefully with fresh rather than recycled water) in the winter, as well as underneath."http://www.terb.ca/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-7082.html
"DON'T pay any additional money for "rustproofing" or some type of "fabric protection" either. The rustproofing is bogus."http://www.buy-and-sell-car-secrets.com/car-buying-tips-2.html
"DON'T get rustproofing. This is a scam."http://www.ehmac.ca/archive/index.php/t-27853.html
"a shrewd dealer may add to his profit by talking you into extras you don't want and probably don't need. These can include added and overpriced insurance, extended warranties, rust proofing (absolutely unnecessary)"http://ezinearticles.com/?How-To-Buy-Your-Dream-Car-And-Avoid-Car-Dealers-Dirty-Tricks&id=114873
"undercoating is not rustproofing.* Its only claim is sound deadening.* So, should I get rustproofing from Ziebart or the like?* Don't waste any money here.* If you wash your car regularly, especially in the winter if they salt the roads where you live, and you'll have no problems.* My 1989 Ford probe doesn't have the first speck of rust on it, and it is uncontaminated by undercoating or rustproofing.* Cars are well made these days and just don't need it.* I also have a 1981 K-Car that has rust all over it -- rings of rust starting at each hole Ziebart drilled in it when they "rustproofed" it. "
http://chris.cc/wisdom.htm#Automobiles
 

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5M-GE
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2,901 Posts
I am a firm believer of having a car rustproofed.

Mom's '98 Altima is rusting out before my very eyes. Our '85 Cressida, which was hardly ever winter driven, is probably by now part of a few dozen Hyundais' body panels.

I remember an experience, talking not too long ago to an owner of a 1983 Nissan Sentra. There wasn't a single spec of rust on this car - it was daily driven by this man's wife, the paint was faded, some dents here and there but structurally, the metal was immaculate. Pop the hood, open the doors, or look underneath the car, and all you find is OIL. Rustproofing oil.

I feel this is something that has to be done yearly, as the generally accepted good stuff is quite thin and must be reapplied. You can call that another moneygrab, but I see too many cars fall by the wayside and I see too many solid cars rustproofed to deny its goodness.


In fact, all new cars carry a perforation (holed through) warrantee which is usually in the area of 6 years.
The odds of a car "rusting through" in six years is probably slim to none, the Nissan noticably started after these six years. For me, rustproofing isn't short term, it should be done when you want to protect a car for its entire lifetime. I do not suggest that rustproofing be done at a dealership.


And yes, the 1985 Toyota brochure said that these panels were galvanized... :rolleyes:
 

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TN Pussy Man
Camry
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13,302 Posts
I agree with what everybody here is basically saying....

additional rust-proofing isn't a bad idea at all
yes, new cars generally come with rust-proofing and paint protection these days, but it seems that for some reason, it really just isn't enough to protect against years and years of salt during (Canadian) winters. against say, just water and cold/snow, I'd presume it would be a-okay, but not against the chemical salt that is strong enough to crack and discolor tarmac

and as everybody says- if you do choose to get rustproofing done, don't get it done at the dealership- they'll charge you 500bucks for a "package" and then outsource it to a rustproofing place anyway that you could have gone to yourself and paird 100bucks for
 

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deviate from the absolute
92 toyota camry
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4,910 Posts
best rustproofing was on my camry, putting it in a garage for the winter and driving the truck

seriously though 1st rustproofing on a new car should not be an option. 2 words, get it
 

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Resident asshole
Corolla
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In fact, all new cars carry a perforation (holed through) warrantee which is usually in the area of 6 years. Do you know if you get your car rust proofed on day one, you void your factory warrantee
Yeah I know you void the warranty if you get it rust proofed. But would you rather drive a car that resembles swiss cheese or one that would last and keep its re-sale value?
Probably that 6 years warranty would last in places that didnt use roadsalts during winter, I've seen brand new ford focuses already starting to rust in the places where roadsalt gathers, and thats less than a year when they were purchased.
I'm really not speaking out of my ass, but from a professional automotive-technicians point of view.

Oh and one more thing, go to get that rustproofing in a place that uses dinitrol-stuff, they're really the best ones out there, thats what I'm gonna use on my car after I finish the bodywork.
 

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1998 Camry CE
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2,073 Posts
Read the perforation waranty and you will see that the way most shops apply the rustproofing VOIDS the manufacturer warannty for sheet metal perforation. They drill into the body to access the space in between.

When I got my XLE I had the door trim removed and weather stripping pulled off to access the clips and plug holes that were covered up. Those holes are for letting air escape during the Ecoat dip at the factory paint shop. Ask the rust check shop manager or owner if they will do that for you (go in the late summer or fall) if they are not too busy. I also had the gel type undercoating done after the shop power washed the underside on a hoist, then dried it over the weekend in their garage for me.

All of my family cars had been rustproofed that way since the early 80's, but with tar (back when we had neighbourhood block party BBQ's) and this neighbour worked for Ziebart.

My mom's 81 tercel had one rear suspension arm rust through in 1998, and they were replaced by the dealer with new shocks and hardware. Only because the rest of the car was in good condition and rust did not eat away at the body and suspension mounting / load bearing areas. Total cost to us was $60 CDN.
 

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mixed bag 'o vehicles
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i think if you were planning on keeping your car for more than 15+ years, maybe consider rustproofing it, but not at the dealer. until 2 years ago, i had a '79 suburban that was in pieces (no floors, wheel wells, bottoms of doors missing, holes through the fenders i could stick my fist through...) and a buddy had an '81 that he had rustproofed several times over its life that ended up getting very little rust. i believe he had it done at ziebart. i also have known some people who swear to lightly spraying the underside of the vehicle with oil every late fall to protect. though im not sure about how safe/reliable this is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks to everyone for answering my question. I see that opinions "for rustproofing" and "against" are 50/50.

Yeah I know you void the warranty if you get it rust proofed
Than maybe to "rustproof" car after 5 years when factory warranty expires (and not on new car)?
 

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5M-GE
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2,901 Posts
Shaul said:
Thanks to everyone for answering my question. I see that opinions "for rustproofing" and "against" are 50/50.

Yeah I know you void the warranty if you get it rust proofed
Than maybe to "rustproof" car after 5 years when factory warranty expires (and not on new car)?
Perhaps. Within those five years, however, it would be prudent to keep both the body panels AND the undercarriage as clean as you can.
 

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Resident asshole
Corolla
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Yeah I know you void the warranty if you get it rust proofed
Than maybe to "rustproof" car after 5 years when factory warranty expires (and not on new car)?
Well rustproofing doesnt help when its put on rust now does it, that 5 years time you WILL have started to accumulate rust.
When I invest in a car, I'm gonna take damn good care of my investment, which means, I'm gonna protect it very well.
 

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Sebastian Loebs evil twin
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has n e body tried or herd of putting truck bed lining on the underbody of their car? it seem to me that it is very tough stuff.
 

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1998 Camry CE
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Doing that would only benifit if your surface is absoluteley clean for the lining to stick. Also, when it does chip or peel, that is where moisture and dirt will get trapped. Add in some wear , and that can start the rust if you do not inspect and reline that area.

Look for a gel type undercoating that can heal itself (that drips onto the driveway in warm weather) and have that resprayed in the fall for about 70CDN.
 
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I've tried "Rust Check" and "Krown" and both are average. Krown is a bit better than RC IMO. I would definitly avoid the factory/dealer ones. I will be having my Taco done every year with Rustblock. I do not like the plastic/tar like undercoatings such as ziebart as once they harden water will buildup inside if a small crack or chip forms. The Rustblock is a spray on oil type that sets up like a gel.
 

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'96 Rolla DX
1996 Corolla DX
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531 Posts
I live in Nova Scotia, home of salty roads and ocean spray. My '96 corolla has been undercoated 3 times since it was made. I took it to get safetied last month and the mechanic was amazed by the condition of the underneath. There is honestly no rust.(Exept the drums, we cant help that) For those of you that are so confident that undercoating does nothing, then splash salt water on a piece of metal and then on your driveway. See what rusts first.
 
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