[Whatthephil]

Hello I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris. The passanger side headlight only works when its on high beams. I tried replacing the bulb and it acted the same. The driver side headlight works fine.

I figure it must be a fuze/relayer issue since the bulb is good but I'm not sure which one I should replace.

Passanger side headlight (small bulb works):

Passanger side headlight on high beams (works properly):

Driver side headlight (working properly):

Which fuze to replace or maybe another issue?

 

[Old Man Ron]

I have poor vision so I can't see the pictures very well (not your fault)... but one sure-fire way of testing is to first swap the bulbs left-right and see if the problem follows the bulb or stays with the headlamp fixture. This reveals whether or not the bulbs are the problem.

After verifying that the bulbs are good, do the same swap with the identical fuses (swap LH for RH... as long as both say the same thing aside from specifying 'L' or 'R'. This reveals whether a fuse is the problem.

There is (traditionally) only one relay so if you're going to do the swap-test on relays, you must verify the two relays are identical in construction, as opposed to being identical in operation. For example, sometimes the starter, headlamps, radio, heater, etc, could all be powered through swappable relays as each relay has the exact same number (and position) of prongs, and/or the same manufacturer's part number. Colors may differ, but their internal structure is the same. Clear as mud? If not, obviously don't try it... but in my experience the components don't care if the corresponding relay changes places, as long as the new relay performs the identical function.

Hope that helps a bit

 

[sdspeed]

What OMR said and...
Side note: Take some acetone ( some fingernail polish removers still have it in them)
and put some on a folded up paper towel and wipe the headlamps in one direction, air dry and then hit them with a window cleaner like windex. Quick and easy with great results.

 

[Whatthephil]

Thank you that helped. I removed the fuze below the one you're pointing to and it started working again. I didn't even replace the fuze just removed it and it started working.

 

[sdspeed]

Hey, whatever works right.

 

[Whatthephil]

This looked like it fixed it but both lights were so dim I could hardly see at night.

I replaced both the fuses and bulb but the passanger side bulb still doesnt light. It works on high beams.

I have no clue what the issue could be.

 

[sdspeed]

Swap the right with the left and see if the issue follows. Also check that the sockets are well grounded.

 

[Whatthephil]

Swap the right with the left and see if the issue follows. Also check that the sockets are well grounded.

You cant access the other headlight the fuze box is blocking it.

The wires go straight down and blocked by washer fluid so you cant check thier connection.

 

[sdspeed]

Can you check the socket with the bulb pulled?
New bulbs do fail.
Dim usually is associated with low voltage due to resistance in the wires ( i.e from age or corrsion) or sketchy grounds for the same reason.

 

[SFCamry]

As you work out the bulb issue, you definitely need to dehaze those assemblies. Those are hazardous they are so oxidized. Judging from the pictures they appear to have many small cracks in them, meaning they are now brittle as well. It looks like a new set is in the $125 or less range. I would get new ones and put them in if I were you. Even when you get that bulb problem worked out your light on road is way less than it needs to be with all that oxidation. I would say you can go through the process of grinding them down but if they are cracked liked that, and new ones are that cheap, much easier to just get new ones. Wiping them down will work for maybe a week or two, then they will haze up again very quickly. All the protectant is gone and the plastic is road rashed up and sun damaged. You either need to spend some hours grinding them down, sanding them back smooth, then sealing them up (this is a several hour process to do it right, and requires some different grades of sandpaper plus ideally a restore kit and best thing some clear coat). If my assemblies were $100 or so I'd just get new ones. OEM is best, aftermarket ones may leak and you will find moisture building up.

Like the others here are saying you may have a connection or corrosion issue at the connector. You should be able to access them from under the bumper, but removing the washer fluid reservoir is usually pretty easy to do.

 

[Old Man Ron]

Just now re-read this and noticed you were having difficulty getting to the one side due to the location of the fuse block.

You may need to remove the headlamp assembly in order to gain access to the back of it. These days, it's quite often necessary to play "Tetris" with underhood parts in order to accomplish something. Holler back if you need additional assistance... plenty of good folks here willing to help.