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Camreee
Race build '99 NA V6.
Joined
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196 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Preface: I've always had rattling from the trunk, It's always been there, even before any mods, but it's worse with a stiff suspension, and after I stripped some of the interior to open the trunk directly into cabin it's getting really annoying because now it's basically clanging metal reverberating around in a metal echo chamber. Part of the cost of doing so is noise, but I think it's fixable, I just don't know how because I'm not sure exactly what is causing it.

Rough roads cause it to occur at 2-3 hz, washboard roads occurs at whatever hz in traveling over the washboard area. Typically 4-5 times per second.

The noise itself sounds as like a clanging strut nut from too much droop and not enough torque. It sounds less thunky worn sway bar links/loose sway bar bushings/sway bar/frame contact/etc, but occurs are the same spots in the road you would hear those noises. It's a two stage rattle in that one piece hits another and you the rattling noise from the second object.

Here's what I've tried so far:

  1. Disassembled right rear suspension to check for metal on metal contact, Couldn't find any metal wear anywhere, with no looseness or play anyway, lubed the coilovers and then retorqued strut nut with threadlocker to 50 ft/lbs, set spring preload is set to 25 lbs in the rear, which is as loose as I'm comfortable running.
  2. Adjusted rear sway bar links to be have zero preload on the right side, and swapped the tiny bit of rear sway bar preload to the left side so the right spring wasn't being pre-compressed over 25 lbs.
  3. Locked all coilover rings with gorilla torque.
  4. Tightened sway bar links with hex key and threadlocker to 50 ft/lbs.
  5. Tightened the sway bar brackets as much as I dared, but there is a 1.5-2mm gap in the polyurethane bushing, the bar is clamping down good in it though, there was significant resistance to rotate by hand from one side. Does anyone think that could cause the issue? When installing the RSB initially I broke a bolt with barely 15 ft lbs of torque and had to drill it out, and replace with new bolts, but I'd rather not deal with the hassle of replacing them all to try torque tighter if it's not a likely culprit.
  6. Torqued strut plate nuts as tight as I dared, around 30 ft/lbs. I snapped too many of those bolts off to go further.
  7. I was still getting the exact same rattling noise, I dug around in the trunk banging on stuff and the only things that rattled were related to the trunk assembly
I reassembled my entire rear right suspension trying to find out what was causing it and turns out its from the The two metal rods that connect the inside front of the trunk lid assembly are constantly rattling when I hit even tiny bumps. Can weld these to their mounts if I don't care about being able to open the trunk?
 

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Premium Member
1993 Camry SE,V6-5MT
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838 Posts
do you mean the torsion bars which are the spring to hold up the trunk lid?

there should be a plastic spacer between them (located at the center)

You can remove them completely: undo the trim in the trunk so you can see where they are slotted into the sheet metal on the side, carefully unhook the long end and then let it rotate down to the trunk floor (have a good hold of it so it doesn't get away from you, its not a whole lot of force but it is a spring). With it unwound like that you can unhook the rest of it from the hinge and remove.

Be ready with something to hold the trunk lid open so it doesn't fall on your head.

Probably worth trying a piece of rubber between them first, just to make sure that's what it is that's been driving your crazy all this time.
 

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Camreee
Race build '99 NA V6.
Joined
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196 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
do you mean the torsion bars which are the spring to hold up the trunk lid?

there should be a plastic spacer between them (located at the center)

You can remove them completely: undo the trim in the trunk so you can see where they are slotted into the sheet metal on the side, carefully unhook the long end and then let it rotate down to the trunk floor (have a good hold of it so it doesn't get away from you, its not a whole lot of force but it is a spring). With it unwound like that you can unhook the rest of it from the hinge and remove.

Be ready with something to hold the trunk lid open so it doesn't fall on your head.

Probably worth trying a piece of rubber between them first, just to make sure that's what it is that's been driving your crazy all this time.
Oh my god, dude, you're my hero. I did a temp ghetto fix with a lot of gorilla tape and it's broken already, so if I can take out those rods entirely that would be sweet.

I'm going to grab some of my trashed detailing pads that I use to dry tires and stuff them in between the rods and sheet metal if I can't get them out, but I'll try your way first because that would solve it entirely I imagine.

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After posting this thread I went and I used 12 yards of gorilla tape taping down every single wire every 6 inches, along with taping down tail lights, blinkers, those flexible plastic tubes about 1" in diameter (sunroof drains).

I removed every piece of plastic still remaining in the trunk like those dumb plastic fasteners I had left like a dozen of in misc places when ripping out trim like a neanderthal.

Then I taped the two bars together with gorilla tape and some tape jammed in between as a spacer, and run tape all along them, along with taping those metal arms you mentioned together as tight as I could, and the trunk hinges on top of the deck.

Then I stuck some double sided gorilla tape in the latch and in the latch hole and a 3 foot strip of double sided gorilla tape where the trunk contacts the bumper area. Took a few really hard slams to close it, had to take out some of the latch tape lol, but it closed and didn't make noise when driving over crappy roads.

Then I went for a very spirit drive some crappy roads and the noise was much reduced, but 50 miles later I started getting noises again, even if much quieter, and by the time I got home it was rattling again.
 

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Preface: I've always had rattling from the trunk, It's always been there, even before any mods, but it's worse with a stiff suspension, and after I stripped some of the interior to open the trunk directly into cabin it's getting really annoying because now it's basically clanging metal reverberating around in a metal echo chamber. Part of the cost of doing so is noise, but I think it's fixable, I just don't know how because I'm not sure exactly what is causing it.

Rough roads cause it to occur at 2-3 hz, washboard roads occurs at whatever hz in traveling over the washboard area. Typically 4-5 times per second.

The noise itself sounds as like a clanging strut nut from too much droop and not enough torque. It sounds less thunky worn sway bar links/loose sway bar bushings/sway bar/frame contact/etc, but occurs are the same spots in the road you would hear those noises. It's a two stage rattle in that one piece hits another and you the rattling noise from the second object.

Here's what I've tried so far:

  1. Disassembled right rear suspension to check for metal on metal contact, Couldn't find any metal wear anywhere, with no looseness or play anyway, lubed the coilovers and then retorqued strut nut with threadlocker to 50 ft/lbs, set spring preload is set to 25 lbs in the rear, which is as loose as I'm comfortable running.
  2. Adjusted rear sway bar links to be have zero preload on the right side, and swapped the tiny bit of rear sway bar preload to the left side so the right spring wasn't being pre-compressed over 25 lbs.
  3. Locked all coilover rings with gorilla torque.
  4. Tightened sway bar links with hex key and threadlocker to 50 ft/lbs.
  5. Tightened the sway bar brackets as much as I dared, but there is a 1.5-2mm gap in the polyurethane bushing, the bar is clamping down good in it though, there was significant resistance to rotate by hand from one side. Does anyone think that could cause the issue? When installing the RSB initially I broke a bolt with barely 15 ft lbs of torque and had to drill it out, and replace with new bolts, but I'd rather not deal with the hassle of replacing them all to try torque tighter if it's not a likely culprit.
  6. Torqued strut plate nuts as tight as I dared, around 30 ft/lbs. I snapped too many of those bolts off to go further.
  7. I was still getting the exact same rattling noise, I dug around in the trunk banging on stuff and the only things that rattled were related to the trunk assembly
I reassembled my entire rear right suspension trying to find out what was causing it and turns out its from the The two metal rods that connect the inside front of the trunk lid assembly are constantly rattling when I hit even tiny bumps. Can weld these to their mounts if I don't care about being able to open the trunk?
I had rear struts replaced and noise stopped but came back because need front struts replaced now!!
 

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Oh my god, dude, you're my hero. I did a temp ghetto fix with a lot of gorilla tape and it's broken already, so if I can take out those rods entirely that would be sweet.

I'm going to grab some of my trashed detailing pads that I use to dry tires and stuff them in between the rods and sheet metal if I can't get them out, but I'll try your way first because that would solve it entirely I imagine.

-------------------------

After posting this thread I went and I used 12 yards of gorilla tape taping down every single wire every 6 inches, along with taping down tail lights, blinkers, those flexible plastic tubes about 1" in diameter (sunroof drains).

I removed every piece of plastic still remaining in the trunk like those dumb plastic fasteners I had left like a dozen of in misc places when ripping out trim like a neanderthal.

Then I taped the two bars together with gorilla tape and some tape jammed in between as a spacer, and run tape all along them, along with taping those metal arms you mentioned together as tight as I could, and the trunk hinges on top of the deck.

Then I stuck some double sided gorilla tape in the latch and in the latch hole and a 3 foot strip of double sided gorilla tape where the trunk contacts the bumper area. Took a few really hard slams to close it, had to take out some of the latch tape lol, but it closed and didn't make noise when driving over crappy roads.

Then I went for a very spirit drive some crappy roads and the noise was much reduced, but 50 miles later I started getting noises again, even if much quieter, and by the time I got home it was rattling again.
Sway bar bushings?? I had a clunking, rattling in the back and replacing the sway bar bushings took care of it. 2 bolts on each bushing but it's easy to snap them off. Penetrating oil and go slow working them in and out. A year later, noise was back but it was a rear stabilzer rod so I installed 2 new ones with zerks from NAPA. No rattles since.
 

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Camreee
Race build '99 NA V6.
Joined
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196 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Sway bar bushings?? I had a clunking, rattling in the back and replacing the sway bar bushings took care of it. 2 bolts on each bushing but it's easy to snap them off. Penetrating oil and go slow working them in and out. A year later, noise was back but it was a rear stabilzer rod so I installed 2 new ones with zerks from NAPA. No rattles since.
Dude thank you so much, you jogged my memory and the more I think about it I think you're right that it's the sway bar bushing, well the bracket for it specifically.

The bushings themselves are totally fine, they are whiteline poly bushings that came with the bar, still look brand new and solid after over a year (electrical tape + lube + bar locks).

However, I remember when I installed them initially, I couldn't get them to close around the bar because the brackets were too tight, so I bent the brackets wider to fit, and clamped it down, but then I snapped one of the 20 year old bolts made out of rust inside the subframe on the left side. I drilled it out and got bolts that were another 3/4 inch longer, and graded higher, then torqued the left side till it closed the bushing around the bar.

I didn't do that to the right side, and there is a 1/4 inch gap where the bushing is split that I can't compress around the bar, for fear of snapping the bolts, I retorqued it down actually when I first started chasing this noise with the oem bolts and was like, well it's tight af around it and the bar holds itself up with the bushing friction so it's probably fine.

If I get some new extended bolts in a grade I can go gorilla on and make the bend in the bracket a smoother curve I could probably get the bushing closed around the bar and the bracket nailed to the subframe like the left side. Damn I can't believe I was staring that in the face this whole time and never thought to just get some new bolts for the right side.

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I rotated the tires yesterday and when it was in the air with the wheels off I was checking the sway bar links which I thought was the noise, although I only have 1/4" clearance, I don't see any metal contact on the hub bolt carrier that the end link passes by when it has force on it.

The strut nuts were all torqued to 50 ft/lb a few weeks ago and all the parts in all the coilovers got heavily lubed. Top 3 nuts are all torqued more than is recommended but there is no metal fatigue in the bolts afaik. The 4 hex bolts for the pillowball mounts in the rears were torqued as hard as I could by hand like the all the other mounts.

I'm not really how to test if the strut is bad. I can literally jump up and down trying to get the rear end to bounce and nothing happens other than thud thud thud thud and my spine hurting because I expected less resistance. I don't know what that tells you about the struts since normally the bad strut test is press down 3 times as hard as you can on a corner trying to rock it, and I did that in the trunk with my full body weight going into the air and back.

I'd guess the springs are too stiff to really use that test. It would take more than twice my body weight to compress the rear right spring 1 inch, and thats not counting the sway bars effect, and since I sealed off the bump stop boot to prevent crud from getting in I can't take a look at the actual seal.

With the strut out of the car when I was lubing all the coilover parts I wasn't able to press the damper down by hand if that tells you anything. I also don't hear the common psssh sound that you get with leaking struts as air is pumped out the seal, it's just a light metal on metal sound. It occurs even at 5mph going over a 1/2 inch bump on a residential street.

It never occurs under hard cornering unless the pavement is not smooth, I can slalom back and forth loading and unloading the rear springs multiple times a second and the noise won't occur unless over bumps or when the wheel sets back down when it lifts.
 
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