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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed my front struts recently and replaced the top hats to fit my longer bolts for my leveling kit, anyway I think I didnt re-install the strut into the recessed notch after I uncompressed the coil,(you must twist the strut into a notch) I just would like a picture to see how much bolt should be sticking out from the strut. Thanks!
 

· just a nobody
Echo
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Strut mount. (must be a british term) lol
I knew what you were asking about, just pulling your legs! 🤣

Knocking noise? If the nut is tight even if it isn't alinged correctly, it still shouldn't make any noise!
When does it make the noise? Over bump, going straight, turning into driveway?
If it is from the upper strut mount, it will make noise when you are going straight, and hitting slight bumps.
Sway bar link noises: when you are going around corners or making turns, or turning into driveways!

And don't forget the sway bar bushing, they can make noise too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's making rapid knocking in a straight line over small bumps. I rocked the car parked and can replicate the noise in the strut mount. The bolt that come out of the middle has 2 flat sides that must sit into the mount, if it's not sitting in there is can cause issues. I only discovered this later so was worried I didn't twist it into place. I guess it's unique on Toyota struts. There is a technical name also but i can't remember because my tech at work told me all this
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Added note. I'm using my original strut mounts not the new ones that came with my struts. It was just easier because I already hammered the longer bolts in. Maybe it's worn?
 

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I had a nasty pop/clunk when I didn't align the mount in the slot. You'd hear it and feel it pop when doing 3-point turns or if hitting a bump when the wheel was turned. The whole spring would move too.
 

· just a nobody
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Familiar with what you are referring to; however, can't think of a safe and easy way to realigning it without removing and disassembling the whole thing again!
Nevertheless, upper mounts can go bad too, and they can make knocking noise as well like you are describing!
How many miles on the vehicle?
 

· イリジウム
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If this is what OP was talking about? It's a common problem of this mount design. It's not a good design as the mount bushing with the tabs can easily shift while tightening the center nut. Hopefully the two tabs weren't crushed flat.

However, Monroe tech support suggested a way to try to seat the strut rod into the bushing:

With wheels on ground, loosen the strut rod (center) nut by 3-4 full turns.
Then use a 10mm hex socket to rotate the rod by around quarter turn (his instruction doesn't say which direction) until it locks into place (!). Then tighten the rod nut again to OEM specs (36ft-lbs). Drive the car to confirm issue is gone (or not)."
BMR's pics:



metal clanging sound from rear new monroe quick struts
 

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Kluger (Highlander) CV - 2006 - AWD
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Key Way design - "When installing a shock absorber, strut or cartridge it is often difficult to prevent the piston rod from rotating when tightening the top mounting nut. However, KYB piston rods have been designed to allow for a Spanner (Figure A), Hex Key (Figure B) or Key Way (Figure C) to hold the piston rod in position during fitment. For example the Key Way design locks the piston rod in the top hat mounting assembly, preventing the piston rod from rotating."
CORRECT INSTALLATION OF SHOCK ABSORBER, STRUT OR CARTRIDGE

It drove me bananas until I worked it out and still catches me out. The only fail safe way for me is to do it with the strut out of the car and to ensure the spring is compressed enough that no effort is required to engage the key way onto the piston rod flats. Otherwise you're fighting the spring while trying to locate the key way onto the rod while also trying to tighten the nut. Once the key way is engaged you only need to hand tighten the nut with the final torque once mounted back on the car. (Before putting back in the car check the piston rod isn't spinning while holding the top hat steady as this is a sign the key way is not engaged).

As the photos provided by JohnGD show there is very little little metal available to engage the key way. What's also interesting is that despite my having KYB struts and tops hats the key way design is the same style as the Monroe in the photos (ie only a few millimetres of metal available and nothing like what's shown on the KYB website).

Looking at the design I would have thought that the key way would self-engage as the nut is tightened but it hasn't been the case for me. I'm surprised I haven't stripped the metal away on more than one occasion.

Let me know if you need more photos. I have top hats and struts in my living room from last week's strut change over. :rolleyes:
 

· イリジウム
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^ as Boony found out, you have to compress the spring sufficiently and carefully tighten the nut for the "key way" to properly engage without jumping out.

The problem with Toyota's design is how little key way there are, and the mount bushing diameter is larger and looser fit against the strut rod, which doesn't help either.

No wonder there were problems with this key way design. It would have been better for Toyota use the Corolla design throughout.
 

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The Corolla design with the unsealed bearings? I think the Highlander is back to using that design in 2014+ models. The 2008-2013 Highlander strut design is similar to ours but is easier to work with as well when I did the struts on my 2014 RX350. There is more leeway with the key and less compressing of the spring is required.
 

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Kluger (Highlander) CV - 2006 - AWD
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Here's a side by side comparison between 1st and 2nd gens. I actually though the key way design was propriety to KYB but it seems not. @petayV8 - it usually takes me about 3 goes before the rod and top hat is properly enaged so you're not alone. Note - the nyloc nut does give a false feeling the key way is engaged until you start torquing so something to be mindful also.
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Seems they are using the same front design as the rear, that's exactly how my 2010-2015 Lexus RX350 fronts looked (compared to KYB 2nd gen). All my 1st gen equivalent (01-03 and 04-07) had the same front and rear design too.
 
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