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Sorry for the long post here. After three rounds of ordering and waiting on adapters, and spending $20 for a two-day subscription to Toyota's EWD (Electrical Wiring Diagram) I finally have my AVIC-7200NEXworking. I found limited public technical information to help with this project, and a large fraction of what I did find was incorrect, incomplete, or unhelpful. I hope this post helps others in the future.

My car left the factory in Sept 2018 with a non-JBL sound system, no navigation, and no satellite radio. It did have a backup camera, voice command, bluetooth-enabled speakerphone and telephone integration, steering wheel controls, and USB and Aux-In connections in the cubby-hole beneath the radio. My objectives were A) no cutting the factory wiring harnesses, B) no wires left exposed, and C) preserve what factory features I did have. In the end, I achived all three with just a few minor exceptions.

The AVIC offers two USB ports so I planned to use the second USB port in the armrest storage.

To remove the old radio I had to: A) pry up the plastic clock atop the dash, B) remove the air vents, C) remove the shifter knob and surround; D) remove the two bolts and four screws for the center console/armrest; E) slightly lift and slide the center console an inch or two rearward; F) remove the cubby hole below the radio; G) unbolt the radio and air conditioning panel; H) reach underneath and disconnect the air conditioning panel from the harness. After all that, there was enough slack in the wiring to withdraw and then disconnect the factory radio.

As with most aftermarket radio installations, I had to replace the plastic fasia surrounding the radio with a new “double DIN” aftermarket fasia – I ordered BKTOYK981. The air conditioning panel transferred easily from the old to the new fasia., along with the yellow “clips” that help hold things together. The factory radio brackets (left and right) transferred easily to the AVIC and the new fascia using the included screws.

I also snapped the factory USB/Aux from the back of the cubby hole since I was replacing it.

For the Camry's 2014 model year, there was a factory change starting in December 2013. There is some confusion in the aftermarket around the exact date of this change, I did see several vendors call out incorrect cutoff dates. My car was manufactured 09/2014 so it needed the newer diagrams. I reached out to both Pioneer and Metra (Axxess) for technical support a few times, via both telephone and email, and I was pleasantly surprised by their availability and responsiveness – although they weren't always 100% able to advise me. I eventually muddled through with the help of the EWD's.

As you'll see below, I bought a lot of adapters and gizmos to make it all work. Pioneer sells an “iMaestro” module for the AVIC that is supposed to do the same, but I did not buy it. If anybody has experience with the iMaestro please post your thoughts. The Metra/Axxess components listed below substituted for the iMaestro.

Here's some general background information that I learned along the way:

Backup cameras should only be powered on when they're needed – in my case, when the car is in reverse. This is how it worked from the factory, and this is how it should work with any aftermarket setup. The camera lasts much longer this way. The factory wiring harness includes two wires for the video signal and two wires for camera power (+ and -). In my car's case, the camera power requirement is for 6V, not 12V.

The “reverse” signal from the car works as follows: when in reverse, the car puts +12V power on this wire. This is how the radio knows to switch input to the backup camera. This power must be fed to the camera – in my car's case, after conversion to 6V. An aftermarket radio can turn the camera on as well, e.g. to view the camera when not in reverse.

The “parking brake” signal from the car works as follows: the car shorts this wire to ground when the parking brake is applied. This is how the radio knows it's safe to play DVD's, etc.

I disconnected seven factory radio harness connectors from the factory radio but reconnected just five to the AVIC. It's not possible to incorrectly plug these in due to their shapes and sizes. The two I didn't use were A) the four-pin factory USB wiring (replaced below) and B) the smaller-wire 12-pin connector.

The connector nomenclature below is from Toyota EWD:

I152(J): A 12-position connector (only 10 pins present) for power and speakers.

I153(K): An 8-position connector (only 6 present) for the rear speakers.

I155(H): A 28-position connector for various signals.
Pins 21-24: Steering Wheel Control (SWC)
Pin 2: reverse signal from carefully (hot when in reverse)
Pin 15: Parking Brake (grounded when applied)

I158(G): A 24-position connector with camera-related signals.
Pins 12 and 24: Video Signal + and -, respectively.
Pins 11 and 23: Camera Power + and -, respectively.

Unlabelled: The AM/FM antenna connector.
I did not re-use the I156(I) four-position connector with the AVIC. This is the factory USB wiring and I replaced it (see below).

In addition to the AVIC, I purchased the following components (see additional details below).

BKTOYK981: Black replacement fasia.
Includes a pocket for single-DIN radios which I did not use.

ASWC-1: An active component that adapts the steering wheel control signals.
Includes a generic harness which I did not use (see next item).

AX-TOY28SWC: A wiring adapter for the ASWC-1 above.
Replaces the generic harness that comes with the ASWC-1; prevents cutting of the factory wiring.

AX-USB35-EXT: A combined USB and 3.5MM Aux-in cable.
Replaces the factory harness and bulkhead in the cubby hole. Plugs directly into the AVIC; the other end snaps into the factory location in the cubby.

40-LX11: An adapter for the AM/FM antenna

AX-TOYCAM3-6V: An adapter for the camera.
Includes a power transformer. This is not the same as the AX-TOYCAM3 which is for the earlier built cars. The included transformer reduces the voltage to match the camera's 6V power requirement. The yellow RCA pigtail for attaching to the AVIC is rediculously short.

Metra 70-1761: A pair of adapters for the speakers, switched power, constant power, and illumination.
Uses industry-standard color coding.

Optional: 3' RCA extention cable
A female-to-male extension to make up for the rediculously short RCA cable attached to the AX-TOYCAM3-6V adapter. Adding this adapter will make final installation much easier.

Additional details of the above components follows:

The ASWC-1 is a small active black-box component, about 2” x 2” x 1”, that sits between the car and the AVIC and which interprets steering wheel button presses into Pioneer-specific signals. The AVIC includes a 3.5MM jack on the rear for this purpose - labelled W/R. The AVIC manual confusingly calls this the “wired remote” jack. When first turned on, the ASWC-1 automatically learns what brand car and what brand radio are attached, and does the right thing. I managed to confuse it at first by not wiring it correctly; once I corrected my wiring, the ASWC-1's reset button straightened it out with no further issues. For this reason, I strongly suggest you test your steering wheel controls before you zip everything back up. If they're not working, try resetting the ASWC-1. There are pretty good documents online, both generic and vehicle-specific – although the latter is only slightly helpful. The ASWC-1 includes its own generic wiring harness, which I abandoned in favor of the AX-TOY28SWC adapter described next.

The AX-TOY28SWC is a passive wiring adapter that replaces the ASWC-1's generic wiring harness. It allows connection of the car's harness to the ASWC-1 without cutting or splicing into the car's factory wiring harness.

The AX-USB35-EXT is a passive combination USB and Aux cable, with a cube-shaped end that snaps into the factory cubby hole location for USB and Aux-In. The factory bulkhead, obviously, must be removed beforehand.

The 40-LX11 is a passive adapter for the AM/FM antenna.

The AX-TOYCAM3-6V is a kit containing a passive wiring adapter and a small transformer that converts 12V to 6V and allows re-use of the factory backup camera all without cutting or splicing the factory wiring harness. The adapter and transformer are both included but do not come wired together – you have to do that. Side note: the backup camera appears to be main difference between the earlier and later builds. I don't think you can (or need to) use this transformer on the earlier built cars.

The Metra 70-1761 is a kit containing two passive wiring adapters for the power and speaker connections to the AVIC. The smaller of the two is an eight-position connector; the larger is a twelve-position connector. These adapters use industry-standard color coding for radio power, lighting, speaker connections and antenna power, and allow connection to the car's harness without cutting.

Setting the AX-USB35-EXT aside, I laid all adapters and harnesses on my workbench and soldered them together into what can only be called a rats nest. I made an effort to orient the ends of the adapters so that the connectors would be easy to reconnect during final installation of the radio, and of course I added insulation to prevent shorts.

I soldered the rats nest together in this order:

First the easier connections – just two wires involved in each connection:
  • Eight Speaker connections between:
    • The 70-1761 adapters, and
    • The AVIC harness.

      Note The color-coding is standardized here, you should have no trouble finding these.
  • Nighttime dimmable illumination between the 70-1761 adapter and the AVIC harness. Again using standardized orange/white wire.
  • Constant +12v between the 70-1761 adapter and the AVIC harness for radio memory. Uses yellow wire.
  • Remote Control (power antenna) between the 70-1761 blue to AVIC blue-white. This ensures that the antenna amplifier receives power when the radio tuner is active.
  • Parking brake ground between AVIC harness light green and AX-TOY28SWC pin 15.
Second, somewhat harder connections – with three-way connections:
  • Switched +12V betweeen:
    • The large 70-1761 and
    • The AVIC harness, and
    • The AX-TOY28SWC
  • Reverse signal between:
    • The AVIC harness,
    • The AX-TOY28SWC pin 2, and
    • The AX-TOYCAM3-6V
  • Third, a five-way chassis ground between:
    • The 70-1761 adapter (black),
    • The AVIC harness (black),
    • The TOY28SWC (black),
    • The AX-TOYCAM3-6V harness (black), and
    • The AX-TOYCAM3-6V transformer (black)
I did not find a usable “CAR SPEED SIGNAL”, thus I left this wire on the AVIC harness unconnected.

The AVIC included a microphone with an 8' cable. Since there is no adapter sold to allow re-use of the factory mic, I used the AVIC's mic, abandoning the factory-installed mic. I ran the 8' mic cable from the rear-view mirror area, over to the drivers A-pillar, down to the driver's toes, and finally over to the AVIC. I used the included double-sided tape to affix the AVIC's microphone to the windshield. This left the microphone and a short 3” segment of the cable exposed – a slight compromise of the factory look, but not too bad. Side note: any advice how to remove the overhead console (the sunglasses holder and map lights) without damaging the headliner would be appreciated.

The AVIC included a 5' USB A-to-A extension cable as well, I ran this USB cable from the AVIC's USB Port 2, along the transmission tunnel, and into the hole in the armrest/storage box. I used double-sided tape to attach the female end in place.

The final step prior to installing was to insert the square end of the AX-USB35-EXT into the back of the cubby-hole and reinstall the cubby-hole into the car. This left everything ready for final connection of the AVIC. I had a helper hold the AVIC while I attached the adapters and ASWC-1:
  • Connect the ASWC-1 to the rats nest.
  • Connect the five factory harnesses to the rats nest.
  • Connect the following directly into the back of the AVIC:
    • AVIC harness to AVIC.
    • ASWC-1 3.5MM to AVIC W/R port.
    • AX-USB35-EXT USB to AVIC USB Port 1
    • AX-USB34-EXT 3.5MM to AVIC Aux In
    • GPS antenna to AVIC GPS
    • 40-LX11 to AVIC AM/FM antenna
    • Microphone to AVIC MIC in.
    • AX-TOYCAM3-6V Male RCA to AVIC Rear Camera (very short - easier if you use an extension)
Beware that you must tell the AVIC that a backup camera is present in the settings. Your backup camera won't work until you do.
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