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94 Camry LE Coupe
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced one rear strut yesterday... long neglected fix.

That same wheel had play in it prior to the replacement and unfortunately still has it afterwards. The strut needed replacing anyway for other reasons, but I was kind of hoping it would go away at the same time.

The play is noticable with the wheel mounted and if you hold it 3 and 9 o'klock.

It's not in the hub assembly, and the hub assembly sits on the axle carrier solid so it must be that the whole axle carrier is rocking.

I'm thinking that if the two paralell long "arms" going towards the center of the car has shot bushings, or if one of them has a shot bushing, this would cuse the play.

I can't produce play in the arms with my bare hands, but maybe that was feeble. The bushings look visually ok as far as one can tell, but it's not possible to see 100% of the bushings especially the inner ones.

I don't know what's causing it othervise. Can someone help me figure this out please.

94 Camry LE 4 cyl
 

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Do exactly what you said and have another person look at the bushing inside those control arms. As you said it is likely the bushing is rotted out and you have play in one of those arms. One of the two on each side will have a long nut on it which is the adjustable one, used to adjust the rear for an alignment.

The issue is in order to do these you can use three different methods. Drop the gas tank to access the long bolt, drop the subframe, or you do what many have done and cut the bolt as it's coming out and install it backwards. It's tough to explain but use the search and you'll find the answer.

Biggest issue is this is not a minor fix. It can be very time consuming due to accessing the long bolt through the entire suspension which is often seized into place. Good luck
 

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94 Camry LE Coupe
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
:facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:

Not psyched about this! I did similar work like this on another car once, involving these long ass bolts. Laying on the ground hammering at a bolt that won't move. It can make a grown man cry.

Good news is there is alot less roll when driving and all the clunks and rattles are gone after the strut replacement. But sooner or later I'm going to have to tackle the arms, I know it.

A different question: What's the consensus on the need for symetry with the struts... do I have to replace the other side strut now that I replaced the one rear strut or am I ok with one new one old?
 

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Usually the front-most arms are OK. It's the rear-most ones that seem to be more problematic. Especially the outer joint, which actually is a ball joint in there, not a simple rubber bushing.
 
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"A different question: What's the consensus on the need for symetry with the struts... do I have to replace the other side strut now that I replaced the one rear strut or am I ok with one new one old?"

That really depends on how many miles are on the other strut and the condition it's in. You don't say. Have you tried a simple bounce test on each side of the rear to determine if you notice any difference? If you do, I would change out that other rear strut.

Mike
 
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