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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, it took me days to figures out my axle is totally busted. As you can see, the balls fell out and the retainer inside were broken into pieces. I have a reman. axle ready to be put in. But I need some help guys!!! can you show me which bolt to unscrew and what not. I dont have the best tools so I want to be efficient... I know there's a guide on here posted already, but I am just not familiar with the terminology - i am not a car dude... so please help out.


[img=http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5521/img4716bd1.th.jpg]

As you can see I unscrewed the brake..

[img=http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/901/img4715vh4.th.jpg]

yeah the axle is f up. No wonder it does not roll. hhehe.

[img=http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/9800/img4718vu4.th.jpg]


There's 2 huge bolts that connects to the hub. Do i take them out?

[img=http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9131/img4719yi4.th.jpg]

How about that bolt?



By the way, my car is an 88 corolla gts
 

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iAzn
1988 toyo Corolla DX
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1,492 Posts
Here it is as simple as I can get it, hope it's not too much...

TOOLS:
1. Impact air gun 1/2" DRIVE, if possible. To substitute, 2-19mm wrenches/ sockets for strut bolts, 17mm wrench/ socket for tie rod, 32mm socket for axle nut. Prefer all 1/2'' drives!
2. Swivel socket extension
3. Pliers, for cotter pins.
4. Breaker bar, just incase, for sockets.
5. Hammer, maybe 2lb is sufficient.
6. Another pair of hands, just incase.

*You do not have to disconnect/ remove anything relating to your brakes! Do be cautious not to strain the brake lines too much. They can take some strain.

1. You know to remove the large cotter pin and the 32mm nut that bolts the hub the outer CV shaft together, right? Take it off.

2. In the 3rd picture, http://img49.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img4718vu4.jpg, remove the two bolts connecting the strut to the hub assembly. They should be 19mm.

3. There's a rod (the tie rod) that steers the hub assembly. That one that bolts on the hub assembly (the tie rod END), take off that one nut which should be 17mm. You may have to remove the cotter pin first if there is one (there should be, a small one). If the tie rod end does not lift up off the hub assembly, take a hammer and whack NOT THE TIE ROD END (doing so may damage the threads) but the hub assembly area around where the tie rod end bolts to. It should knock it free.

4. Now the hub assembly should be able to move in whatever direction that the lower ball joint (the only thing holding the hub assembly) allows. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THIS OFF. The hub should maneuver enough to get the shaft out. It seems in your case, I can save my finger for steps you don't need since your CV shaft is now in two pieces. Just tap the remainder of the shaft out the hub.

At this point, just pull/ yank out the rest of the CV shaft out the transaxle. It may seem stuck, a circular clip locks it in the transaxle. Just keep yanking, it'll come out. The hub assembly should maneuver enough for you to install the new shaft. The inner side of the shaft goes in first. **Because of the C-clip, you may need to tap the CV shaft in, force it. If that's the case, using the old 32mm nut, put it where it would go leaving the threads NOT exposed cuz you may need to tap/ hammer the shaft. This would protect the threads.

5. Once you get the shaft installed into the transaxle, simple maneuver the hub towards you and to the side and guide the cv shaft through the hub.

6. Bolt everything back together! Put the cotter pins in, make sure everything is tight. The 32mm shaft nut, tighten just enough that the hole for the cotter pin is exposed. Same with the tie rod end.

7. Make sure everything is tight and ready for a test drive.
 

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Rotary guy...
89 RX-7 Turbo
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2,456 Posts
that's the hard way to do it :p

**I used a 30mm socket, it might even be a 29mm, but a 30mm worked great**

I just did this 2 weeks ago:

start with vehicle on the ground:
1. remove the cotter pin and retaining nut off the big nut in the center of the hub. needle nose pliers work.
2. loosen the big nut with a 30mm socket on a long breaker bar, and the lug nuts
3. jack the car up at all 4 corners and put it on jack stands (I'll explain why later)
4. take off the wheel and the big axle bolt
5. hit the end of the axle with a hammer, it should pop out the other side
6. unbolt the 3 bolts/nuts (there are both) from the lower control arm connecting to the pillow ball mount. (if you don't know what any of these terms mean, google image search them :) ) you will now be able to move the hub around.
7. the axle might be hard to get out of the transmission, some people say that just "pulled" it out, but when I did this, I pulled the axle apart, so you can try that, but you'll most likely need some sort of pry bar to get it out (I used a really big flat head screwdriver)
8. I've heard "a little bit" of transmission fliud will come out (why you jacked it up on all four corners, so the transmission is level) when I did mine I just had the front up, so a good 2 quarts came out all over the garage floor (yay kitty litter).
9. put the new axle in the transmission, put the old bolt on the new axle (if it fits, if not, just use the new nut) and hit it with a hammer and it'll slide into the transmission the rest of the way (eventually)
10. wiggle the hub around till you can get the other end in it (turn your steering all the way to the left if you're having trouble, this will give you more clearance)
11. make sure it's snug and then tighten the nut a good bit (don't put too much strain on the tranny, wait to REALLY tighten it untill the car is on the ground)
12. re-attatch the lower conrol arm to the pillow ball (pretty tightly)
13. open the bolt on the middle front of the transmission and fill it up with 75w90 gear oil until the level reaches the level of the hole (to replace the gear oil that came out when you took out the axle) (I actually used a 1 inch socket because it fit well and I didn't have any metric ones that big besides my new 30mm :p , it was probably a 25mm but I'm not sure)
14. put the wheel back on and lower it.
15. tighten the axll nut to 134 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench
16. drive around with your new smooth noise-free axle (and make sure nothing leaks)
 

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Rotary guy...
89 RX-7 Turbo
Joined
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2,456 Posts

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Rotary guy...
89 RX-7 Turbo
Joined
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2,456 Posts
does that set have a big (long) enough rachet to unscrew those huge a$$ bolts?
it depends how strong you are :)

it's about a foot long, I used an 18" breaker bar with a metal tube attached to the end of it for even more leverage (my girlfriend lost my 30" breaker bar :( ), but I'm pretty small.

I would go to home depot or something and invest like $2 in a nice long hallow metal tube, and any ratchet will always be long enough :)
 

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2,138 Posts
an air gun and small compressor is a must for doing work. A cheapy one will do fine for small jobs. And they don't cost much. You can get a kit with compressor and air tools for $150.00 (if you look around). If you can pay more, get a larger one.
It's been one of the best investments ever. A better one with tools purchased seperately will run about $400 total.

Of course these are not the professional ones, but are good enough for a home garage. :cool:
 
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