I've got an '08 DC Sport that I have had for over a year now and this is the first time I will personally wax the car. I've got a Meguiar's Clay Bar and also a Meguiar's Ultimate Compound that I will use after doing the clay bar. It says on the Meguiar's ultimate compound to use a wax afterwards. Do I need to bother, or will the compound suffice? Thanks everyone!
Polish - Do I need to wax as well??
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Yes, you won't have any wax on the car after you polish. Polishing will remove the existing wax, if any.
Good choice in product. I've used Mequiar's for 17 years. Sometimes I stray and try something different but I always end up back with them. I personally like the NXT 2.0 wax.
Good choice in product. I've used Mequiar's for 17 years. Sometimes I stray and try something different but I always end up back with them. I personally like the NXT 2.0 wax.
Short answer, no.
You *can* do that, and it will look nice and clean for a little while, but in all honesty, if you're going to clay bar it, you may as well spend the additional hour throwing some wax on there too.
I spent long enough in a Toyota dealership to know that our paint is paper thin, and we need as much protection as possible!
You *can* do that, and it will look nice and clean for a little while, but in all honesty, if you're going to clay bar it, you may as well spend the additional hour throwing some wax on there too.
I spent long enough in a Toyota dealership to know that our paint is paper thin, and we need as much protection as possible!
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Have you checked the car detail forum on here? Not to take anything away from toyotanation, but have you checked out autopia.org or even the forums on meguiar's website?
I think after washing the truck, then using the clay bar and compound, you're going to have very little wax left to protect the paint. I don't think the polish will hold up as long if you were to skip the wax process. Unless you get a combo wax/polish product.
I think after washing the truck, then using the clay bar and compound, you're going to have very little wax left to protect the paint. I don't think the polish will hold up as long if you were to skip the wax process. Unless you get a combo wax/polish product.
Exactly. It isn't just Toyota, though. Most Japanese cars, like my Nissan, have very thin paint.
+1. Meg's NXT makes probably one of the best over the counter you can buy. Quality stuff for a good price! :thumbsup:
Autopia is garbage IMO. If you want the info go to www.Autogeek.net (forums). Plus their DIY, products, customer service, and prices are top notch. I have used them for years! :thumbsup:
^ LOL! :lol: Sorry dude but your times are off if you are doing a quality job.
Claybar - easy 3-4 hrs (for a quality job to remove most contaminants)
Polishing - 2-3 hrs. w/ a Dual Action Polisher like a Porter Cable.
Wax/Sealant/Glaze - By hand 1 hr. to cover and buff off with quality Micro Fiber towels.
Polishing and waxing do go hand in hand...you do one...then you do the other. You must go through the proper steps in order to properly take care of your paint and to get the desired results. (I guess results depend on the owner, but I am anal and I take longer on mine than when I detail other vehicles)
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Either one works. It's not rocket science. Just trying to help a brother out.
To the OP, I can pm you my friend's detail shop web address if you like.
Sure they may work, but the peep's on the forums are DOUCHE BAGS! :thumbsdow Prices are high for what they have, plus if you live in CA like I do = tax up the ass to have stuff shipped to you = NO BUENO! :thumbsdow
You'll definitely want to wax after polishing. Take a look through Pb's detailing threads, a ton of info and some good product recommendations (the Adam's products are pretty solid).
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126955
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126955
My times are right on and produce a quality job.
I do this for a living. claybar with a medium cut clay takes me 20 mins (butter smooth no tiny brown specks)
Polishing The soft paint on the tacoma would take me an hr like I said. I dont use a piece of garbage like the PC. I use a Flex, The right pad and quality polishes from menzerna(the only thing that megs makes that I would touch is their APC) this is based on minor swirling (AVG) and a few scratches that would need rotary work..... now if you were talking about german paint then your up over 2hrs.
If it took me an hr to simply wax and buff off a car I would give up on life.
If thats all you got it will work fine. I wont last long, maybe a couple months. Post up some pics when your done.
I used to detail too...and I too bad you live so far to see your work in person. I still think 20 mins. w/ medium clay doesn't get the job done, but I guess you work at super speed. The flex is nice, but pricey! Don't have the money to throw around so the PC gets the job done for me! And XMT, Pinnacle, Wolfgang, DP, Duragloss, Klasse, OPT, Poorboy's, P21S all have worked wonders for me. I guess it comes down to personal preferences and see what works best with lots of repetition.
Growing up around my fathers detailing business, we always had Meguiars products for the most part. He only used a couple, and the wax was a brand called Granitize, but I believe it stopped producing the 'good stuff' because they had EPA all over their asses for it.
You will always have to have wax on your car. You can get away without polishing it, but you're always going to wax it. Generally every six months if you have a solid wax. If you want a wax that will last you upwards of a year, use a Marine wax. They are twice as strong. I haven't done my whole truck in over a year now and my wax is still solid, even on the hood. Beads like day one. It also helps to prevent scratches.
I do most of my buffing and waxing by machine now, cept for the brushes on my buffer went bad. I use a foam pad on my buffer for polishing.
You will always have to have wax on your car. You can get away without polishing it, but you're always going to wax it. Generally every six months if you have a solid wax. If you want a wax that will last you upwards of a year, use a Marine wax. They are twice as strong. I haven't done my whole truck in over a year now and my wax is still solid, even on the hood. Beads like day one. It also helps to prevent scratches.
I do most of my buffing and waxing by machine now, cept for the brushes on my buffer went bad. I use a foam pad on my buffer for polishing.
Dont worry people like my work.
I have a thousand photos just like this.
And yes I do work fast, I have to if I want to make any money and it doesnt affect my quality. Like you said repetition, Ive tried every thing out there cheap to expensive I know what works for me, and on different paints.
Sucks today was going to be the spring cleanup for my own truck, of course its raining:headbang:
Maybe tomorrow....
I've been detailing for 2 1/2 years no and if you know what your doing just clay/polish/wax should only take you 2 1/2 Hrs! If you don't know what your doing 4 hrs.
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You might want to try claybar then do a section only with the cleaner wax and see how you like it..
I think you'll be impressed.
Save the compound for when the paint gets really marred or for spots only. If the compound is rough enough it may lead a duller finish than you started and need to be followed by a finer polish.
I think you'll be impressed.
Save the compound for when the paint gets really marred or for spots only. If the compound is rough enough it may lead a duller finish than you started and need to be followed by a finer polish.
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