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Hey ! New to forum stuff ! Here my new 87 Celica just bought it !

Tire Vehicle registration plate Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting




Car Land vehicle Vehicle Wheel Tire


I also had a few question hope I can ask it here !

This car got swap with a new tranny (s54) but the odometer is mechanical but the sensor for the transmission is electronical is there anything I could do to get it working ?
 

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That is amazingly clean and low mileage too! Super congrats. I thought I had it good with a '92 with now 69,000km--I have been shown! LOL
Thank you! The car was in storage for about 15 years due to the original owner’s illness. There are a few issues but nothing dire. I just love it. I was surprised at just how strong the engine is. It loves to cruise at around 100kph.
 

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Just picked up this '81 GT Sunchaser a couple weeks ago. Pretty rough, but it's been a good project so far and it has a new bottom end on the engine from Sunwest. Shockingly little rust too, so that's nice

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Plant
 

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So my car a 97 toyota celica GT 2.2l it runs but sometimes coming to a stop it'll shut off or rev on its and sometimes when it does shit off it struggles to turn on again and so i took it a michanic and he said that this is whats missing whats in the picture and its located right under the manifold and he nore I kno whats the part thats missing any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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First, you really should be posting a problem situation with your Celica in this area of the forum. This particular thread is more for showing what you have in a Celica, not for problems. You should start your own thread with your specific situation.

Second, I'll assume you recently purchased this car, and it had the symptoms you state when you purchased it, and you are now trying to fix it up a bit. Hopefully the seller disclosed the issues you found, but then again, not sure why you would have taken it to a mechanic regarding these symptoms if the seller disclosed the issues.

At any rate, in your picture with the red circles, the two circles around tapped holes, those holes are used to bolt the air conditioning idle-up VSV (vacuum switching valve) onto. If you don't have a working air conditioning system, and don't ever intend to have it working in the future, then this VSV isn't needed.

The circle at the bottom left corner is around a vacuum tube. There is supposed to be a vacuum hose attached to that tube and the other end connected to that VSV that is missing. If you don't intend to put a VSV back, this vacuum tube should be capped. As it is now, you have a vacuum leak because this vacuum tube is disconnected and open, which is allowing a fair amount of air into the intake manifold. On your particular engine, this should have the effect of having an idle speed that is too high (it should be about 800 RPM on that engine, I believe). Higher idle speeds, especially if using an automatic transmission, is not a good thing.

Lastly, that red circle in the lower right side of your photo is around your fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose connection. Not having this connected is a bad thing. Intake manifold vacuum is used to regulate fuel pressure on this engine. With the vacuum line removed, the fuel pressure will be too high for most conditions. The ECU fuel map knows the intake manifold vacuum level, so it knows what the resulting fuel pressure "should" be (but there is no sensor on this engine to tell the ECU what the fuel pressure actually is). Fuel pressure should be low at idle, slightly higher at cruising speed, and much higher when accelerating. Your ECU fuel map adjusts injector dwell (on duration) accordingly. If your fuel pressure regulator is disconnected, at idle (i.e.; at that stop sign), the ECU expects low fuel pressure, so the injector dwell time is set, but your actual fuel pressure is way to high, so the engine is getting too much fuel. When at idle, the engine can't always handle that much fuel, so it will run rough and sometime choke itself to stop. And an overfueled engine when warm/hot is a very difficult engine to start again, until it can sit awhile and evaluate the excess fuel in the intake runners and cylinders. There should be a vacuum hose on that fuel pressure regulator that is attached to a vacuum tube just behind where the air conditioning VSV is supposed to be. That metal vacuum tube then goes outside of the intake manifold runners and then turns up. Another vacuum hose is attached behind the intake manifold runners and up to the top of the intake manifold, where it connects to what is called a gas filter (it is really just an air flow restricting device) that is screwed into the top backside of the intake manifold (there should be 2 vacuum lines on the gas filter, with the other going to your MAP (mean absolute pressure) sensor. To think about it, if the line that is supposed to be all attached to the fuel pressure regulator is open and letting more free air into the intake manifold, it would also cause the MAP sensor to see lower intake manifold pressure than is really there. If the ECU is getting data from the MAP saying in intake manifold vacuum is low, it is assuming the engine has a large load on it, so it increases the dwell on the fuel injectors, compounding the over-fueling issue.

So someone who didn't know what they were doing left this car set up to run as you say it is running now. Hopefully your catalytic converter hasn't gotten too fouled with soot to cause additional problems with too much exhaust back pressure. Things often go from bad to worse if things like this aren't handled properly.

Probably more than you want to know, but your symptoms do line up with the mechanics observations. That mechanic helped you more that you might have at first appreciated.
 
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