[94RollaDad]

Hi -

I'm mostly on TN related to my 1994 Corolla but recently I was asked by a family member if I wanted their old 1998 Avalon (~100K on it) when they get a new car next year (probably a new Avalon... they love those cars, they also own a 2008[?]).

Except for oil changes (every 6 months consistently at the local Jiffy Lube [eek!]) and tires everything has been serviced by the dealership with OE parts. They've followed the maintenance booklet to every last detail, so transmission fluid drain and fill every 30k etc, frequent coolant exchanges, timing belt every 7 years, etc. The following service has been completed recently:

- Water pump, timing belt & tensioner, crank/cam seals
- Head gasket (small oil leak) replacement
- Sway bar bushings and I believe end links?
- A/C compressor replacement
- Power steering rack replacement

The car drives well and has had none of the oil sludge issues some experience (probably due to their frequent and consistent OCIs). Car has been garaged since day one. I can't find any rust on it despite living in the rust/snow belt(!) - they avoid most driving in bad winter weather and do frequent car washes - seems to have worked wonders.

My question is - what should I look out for that typically fails at this mileage that hasn't already been addressed by the list above? I typically do all maintenance and repair myself so major concern would just be cost of parts, not labor (except for time investment!). I'm not sure when strut assemblies start to wear out on these cars? The clear coat has started peeling a bit here and there but nothing too nasty. I also think there's an exhaust leak somewhere as it sounds pretty loud. Flex pipe a typical weak area? What about engine mounts - those fail around 100K on the same vintage Corolla... perhaps the V6 is easier on the mounts due to less flexing/vibration than an inline 4 cyl? The upstream O2 sensor is likely original, so that might also be an item to replace at this point? Same with thermostat? I'm not sure if alternator and starter are original but I'd almost expect the starter to have been replaced by now... those 100k involve a lot of short tripping.

 

[BMR]

These things are terrible!!! I recommend you give it to me to avoid future expensive repairs! :lol:

But seriously...

My question is - what should I look out for that typically fails at this mileage that hasn't already been addressed by the list above? I typically do all maintenance and repair myself so major concern would just be cost of parts, not labor (except for time investment!). I'm not sure when strut assemblies start to wear out on these cars?

It varies a lot. I replaced mine with KYB struts at around 200k, and they weren't all that bad.

I also think there's an exhaust leak somewhere as it sounds pretty loud. Flex pipe a typical weak area?

Yep. Although mine is still original.

What about engine mounts - those fail around 100K on the same vintage Corolla... perhaps the V6 is easier on the mounts due to less flexing/vibration than an inline 4 cyl?

Mine are still original, so maybe they do last longer than on I4's?

The upstream O2 sensor is likely original, so that might also be an item to replace at this point?

I would. There are two upstream sensors. Go with Denso brand for best results, as they're the OEM supplier to Toyota. Look up the p/n's for your Avalon here in Denso's online catalog, then price shop. Amazon & Rockauto are hard to beat.

I'm not sure if alternator and starter are original but I'd almost expect the starter to have been replaced by now... those 100k involve a lot of short tripping.

These can last a very long time. The alternator is original on mine. I replaced the starter a while back (200k+ miles?) before I learned that usually installing a new set of solenoid contacts brings 'em back to life. Easy to replace. There are a couple of DIYs over on the Camry forum.

 

[94RollaDad]

These things are terrible!!! I recommend you give it to me to avoid future expensive repairs! :lol:

That is SUCH a generous offer :-D

It varies a lot. I replaced mine with KYB struts at around 200k, and they weren't all that bad.

Nice. I replaced with KYB at 140K on my Corolla and it was like getting a new car, although the old ones easily passed the "bounce test".

Yep. Although mine is still original.

Ok... Yeah I'd have to get under the car and look to see where the exhaust leak might be.

Mine are still original, so maybe they do last longer than on I4's?

Good to know. They can be a pain to replace. I did 3 of them myself on the Corolla but refused to drop the cross member myself to change the lower rear transmission mount so paid for that to be done.

I would. There are two upstream sensors. Go with Denso brand for best results, as they're the OEM supplier to Toyota. Look up the p/n's for your Avalon here in Denso's online catalog, then price shop. Amazon & Rockauto are hard to beat.

Nice - yeah I did a Denso O2 sensor replacement on the Corolla. Helped both idle at closed loop and MPG.

These can last a very long time. The alternator is original on mine. I replaced the starter a while back (200k+ miles?) before I learned that usually installing a new set of solenoid contacts brings 'em back to life. Easy to replace. There are a couple of DIYs over on the Camry forum.

Too funny - I did just that on the Corolla - ended up rebuilding myself with new contacts and plunger - job completed yesterday! The worst part was just removing and reinstalling the starter - the rebuild itself was straightforward: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1.../1388369-uh-oh-starter-click-click-click.html

Thanks for the input! At a minimum I'm looking at O2 sensors and patching an exhaust leak but it may not need a whole lot more for a while then. I would probably also drop the transmission pan and clean the filter and magnets as I think the regular drain and fills it's had at the dealer have not involved pan drops.

 

[BMR]

Yeah, drain and refill on the trans would be good if the previous owner didn't already do any flushing.

Serpentine and power steering belts, perhaps?

FYI: This same V6 is also used on '94-onward Camrys, so it shares a lot. There aren't many DIYs here in the Avalon forum, but there are a ton in the Camry sticky that apply to this Gen Avalon, so take a look there for help...

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...camry-diy-general-information-faq-thread.html

Edit: Oh, the rear bank O2 is tough to get at. There's a DIY over on the Camry forum for it.

 

[94RollaDad]

Cool - good to know.

The transmission has had several drain and fills - every 30k. But I don't think it's had any pan drops (it has a drain plug, right? I don't know for sure since I haven't looked under there). So I'd want to drop the pan to clean the magnets and clean or replace the strainer/filter.

 

[BMR]

Yeah, it's got a drain plug. Not sure I'd bother replacing the "filter". It's just a metal mesh screen, suitable for catching insects. I'd just clean it (if it even needs it) and reuse it.

 

[94RollaDad]

Yeah probably same as the A245E one. I replaced mine in the Corolla but only because I already had a replacement on hand. In hindsight I should have just replaced the filter gasket and given the filter itself a good cleaning with some throttle body cleaner or similar.

 

[tom10]

I have a 1995 Avalon. I've had my share of problems:

Power steering leak at 100,000 miles (at the pump). Leak alleviated by using Prestone Stop Leak.

Power windows (except for the driver's) do not work except in very cold weather. To add insult to injury, the regulators leak greasy oil by the door armrests.

Both half-shafts needed replacement due to torn cv boots.
Both front wheel bearings needed replacement at 190,000 miles. One wheel is already loose at 200,000 miles (I'm hoping that it's an axle nut that's too loose.). BTW replacing the bearings meant having to destroy an ABS sensor, as Toyota made the holes for these too small (This is subject of a TSB). My right front sensor failed and was replaced by me, so only the left had to be trashed.I asked the shop not to replace the sensor, and did it myself.

Sway bar bushing (driver side) deteriorated. I replaced it myself. Easy, but tedious job as there's not too much room for swinging the 12mm wrench.

Power antenna mast needed replacement. I bought the mast only, and did it myself.

Mine suffers from the wind noise problem (mirrors). This is also the subject of a TSB.

 

[BMR]

Mine suffers from the wind noise problem (mirrors). This is also the subject of a TSB.

Yep. Or you could DIY a fix for this. Read thru this entire thread. Fixes are towards the end.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/154-1st-generation-1995-1999/403238-pillar-wind-noise.html

 

[azcorolla]

Hi RollaDad. I've been following your Corolla threads for a while - I have two 97 Corollas, and earlier this year got a 98 Avalon.

I got this Avalon with about 190K miles on it earlier this year; the timing belt, water pump, radiator and a few other things had recently been replaced. The things that needed replaced were pretty much like what you would expect on a Corolla, except I didn't need any motor mounts. I replaced the rear struts and a few other things, none of it was that hard. I had to replace 3 of the 4 window regulators, 3 interior handles and a whole bunch of the dash lights. The interior plastic seems more brittle (compared to the 97 Corolla) to me and it's a LOT more difficult to find some of the interior pieces, not many of these in the PAP yards.

A warning,though - you can get used to the smooth quiet and fairly powerful ride of the Avalon really fast, and it makes the Corolla seem a lot more noisy and rough-riding The only downside is city gas mileage is pretty low - 2 for me.

 

[Endzone3]

Hi -

I'm mostly on TN related to my 1994 Corolla but recently I was asked by a family member if I wanted their old 1998 Avalon (~100K on it) when they get a new car next year (probably a new Avalon... they love those cars, they also own a 2008[?]).

Please tell your parents that they will NOT like the latest generation of Avalons. They ride completely different and of course they look different. They may want to start looking at a Lexus ES 350 or something along those lines. Ask them to go test drive a 2016 or 2017 Avalon and see what they think.

 

[94RollaDad]

Not my parents but that's interesting. I'm sure they'd want to test drive quite a bit before pulling the trigger.

 

[Endzone3]

Not my parents but that's interesting. I'm sure they'd want to test drive quite a bit before pulling the trigger.

Whoever it is, please encourage them to test drive. Maybe I am wrong, and they will love the 4th generation Avalon.

 

[core2kid]

Have a friend who bought a 98 Avalon recently. He loves the car, only issues was the flex pipe (expensive to fix), rear valve cover gasket (a pain on the 1mzfe) and cd player.

Just know your gas mileage is gonna be significantly lower than the Corolla.

 

[94RollaDad]

Have a friend who bought a 98 Avalon recently. He loves the car, only issues was the flex pipe (expensive to fix), rear valve cover gasket (a pain on the 1mzfe) and cd player.

Just know your gas mileage is gonna be significantly lower than the Corolla.

I'd probably just have an exhaust shop weld on a new flex pipe. Had that done on the Corolla and it was cheap. It's held up for years now no issues.

The valve cover gaskets were done when the head gasket job was done so I should be good there.

Mileage - got 34 MPG on my last fill-up on the Corolla - yeah... I'll be disappointed there!!

 

[core2kid]

He tried getting a new flex pipe welded but apparently the pipe around it was too rusty to do so. It has to do with the fact that you have 2 manifolds coming down and joining by the flex pipe, there's not much space to weld there to begin with.

I also read more into the head gasket replacement. Usually they're not replaced if the oil is leaking, it'd have to be with the coolant leaking or a compression leak. I've also not really heard of 1MZ motors having head gasket failures, I wonder if it's a warped cylinder head from factory. Try to get some more info on that. I try to avoid cars that have had head gasket replacements unless it's a common failure car such as the 98-03 1ZZFE motors being rebuilt for oil burning.

 

[94RollaDad]

He tried getting a new flex pipe welded but apparently the pipe around it was too rusty to do so. It has to do with the fact that you have 2 manifolds coming down and joining by the flex pipe, there's not much space to weld there to begin with.

Ah that makes sense - I keep forgetting the 2 manifold setup - I keep mistakenly defaulting to what the inline-4 looks like. Even our Outback's H4 has two manifolds (heck I've even dropped them to install a block heater) but I don't get under there often enough

I also read more into the head gasket replacement. Usually they're not replaced if the oil is leaking, it'd have to be with the coolant leaking or a compression leak. I've also not really heard of 1MZ motors having head gasket failures, I wonder if it's a warped cylinder head from factory. Try to get some more info on that. I try to avoid cars that have had head gasket replacements unless it's a common failure car such as the 98-03 1ZZFE motors being rebuilt for oil burning.

Actually I recall when this happened so I have all the details. They discovered a slow oil leak (drippings on the floor of the garage) and being very cautious they insisted on a head gasket replacement when the dealership traced the leak to it. So it was not anything severe.

 

[Endzone3]

I just spent 15 months and about $2000 bringing a 2003 Avalon up to speed. I bought it with 71K miles on it, but it had not been very well maintained. Here's a list of everything I did to it:


http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...n-after-15-months-i-think-i-m-done-while.html


If you can get the 98 Avalon that has been well maintained, I would sure take it. The 2003 doesn't have an EGR valve though, so IMHO that is one advantage of the 2003--plus the VVT-I. You will love the ride and quietness of this car. I get 21MPG city and 30MPG highway as long as I stay under 70MPH.

 

[jcraig250]

FYI - According to Consumer Reports Toyota stiffened the ride in 2013 in an effort (one assumes) to make it more Euro-feeling and Euro-Competitive. Not a success.
However their tests of the new Avalons state that the softer ride and comfort have been engineered back in this year.

 

[Kingdom934]

Not sure if any one mention (Skimmed a bit), but the speakers tend to fail on these models. You can refoam them up.

Door (rear) tends to fill up with water because the drain holes are clogged. Try wiggle the door if you hear water in there.

Other then the usual suspension issues shared with the Camry, it's a pretty rock solid car.