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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2005 Highlander 2.4L

Hey Guys,
Anyone had this problem with the power lock switch?
I thought it was bad battery in the key FOB, but, I left the FOB in the house,
over a week, and still happening.
I would unlock the door and it would still be clicking, like its engaging, even
after I put key in ignition...
Or when I'm done driving, I hit the master power lock and doesn't do anything
lock or unlock. Then, it will work after manually locking driver door.

I thought it was Master Power Switch, So I Bought A New One And Everything Worked
Great. The Power Windows The Locks Etc. Now It's Acting Up..
Some say it's the:
  • Master Power Switch
  • The Ignition Switch
  • The PCM Computer

Any Ideas?

Thanks,
David D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was just watching a video on programming a new FOB, and they did all these weird steps to get the locks in 'program mode" (open driver door, close door, key in ignition, etc) Well during the process, the locks were acting the same, as my mine. Like cycling through locks. Maybe, it's in 'programming' mode and never completed the cycle.. I don't know but, the way it looked on the video, makes me wonder being stuck in 'program' mode.
 

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2004 Toyota Camry, 2017 Toyota Camry, and many many more lol
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Could be. Yes they are tricky to program and you have to do it just right to make them work correctly.
 

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Looking at the wiring diagram the FOB and switches are suggestions to the BCM. Following the program procedure might work. If not I would try resetting it by pulling the fuses or just pulling the negative terminal off the battery.
I have a sign on my toolbox- when weird things happen, clean your grounds and check your power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This video shows how to program FOB most Toyotas
Worked for me going through the cycle... but, still makes lock engaging sound, if keys are if ignition and I get out of vehicle, Or if I turn off vehicle and take keys out of ignition.. It's like WTF! :rolleyes:
 

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Some ideas -
Looks like BCM gets commands from 3 sources - the driver and passenger door lock/unlock switches and the wireless door lock control module. I would check the BCM ground then unplug the switches and the wireless module. Point is to see if the BCM is getting a command from an exterior source.
I am not sure if the security control module might also command the doors to lock.
 

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Remove the interior door panel and ensure that both locking actuator rods are connected to the lock mechanism. If one is not connected, you can get symptoms similar to this.

Rods are pictured at about 6:20 in the video below:
 

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Hoosier, I think you are on to it. It may be the door unlock detection switch built into each of the lock motors, including the hatch, even if it is not one of the rods.
The rear doors and hatch unlock detection seem to be tied together and pull one single BCM input to ground based on the schematic I see, which should mean that it cannot detect an individually unlocked rear door or hatch unless it measures total current and each of the door unlock detect switches have some resistance in series not shown on the schematic. I’ve found errors in the wiring diagram before.
The driver door and passenger door each have individual inputs.
One idea- unplug each of the lock motors one at a time and see if one of them affects response.
 
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