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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello All,


I have a 2011 Highlander Hybrid limited that drives like a dream, but lately has been giving my wife problems related to the power door locks; I've searched high and low for similar symptoms in all forums and threads, and the closest thing I've found was this one: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/152-venza-forum/390690-doors-won-t-unlock-key-fob.html#/topics/390690?page=2&_k=9m2lr3. I've been to the Toyota dealership, where they replaced both key fob batteries and "reprogrammed the power lock system", but the problem returned within 48 hours.


Here are the symptoms

  • The smartkey fob will unlock the driver's side door, but will not unlock the other three doors when the unlock button is pressed or the driver's side door handle is touched;
  • The vehicle beeps several times (8-10 times) when repeatedly clicking the unlock button (2-3 presses) on the smartkey fob;
  • The interior lock/unlock toggle on the driver's side door will lock all doors but will only unlock the driver's side door;
  • The passenger side front and both rear doors must be manually unlocked from the inside (which TOTALLY sucks when you've got a 4 yr old, 2 yr old and 3 month old waiting to get into their car seats... as they say in Game of Thrones: Winter is comin'!!);
  • The vehicle locks all doors when driving, but will not unlock the passenger side front and both rear doors when shifted into park.
One "workaround" that I found that fixes the symptoms in the short term is to toggle the setting related to how many doors automatically unlock when the driver's side handle is touched by the smart key holder; if I change this setting from "driver's side only" to "all doors" (by holding both the lock and unlock buttons on the key fob while sitting inside the vehicle), the symptoms go away for 24-48 hours but eventually return.


I don't believe the problem is an actuator, because I can get the locks to work temporarily by doing the workaround; I don't believe it's a wiring issue, because again the doors will lock and unlock after the workaround. I don't know enough about the control module/computer or the electrical component of the issue to troubleshoot or poke around, and I'm hoping that others have come across this issue before. It seems like a common problem amongst all Toyota models, not just the Highlander..


Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! I will post an update once this has been settled.




 

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Body control module probably has an issue, but actuators can be that picky/intermittant.

Most replace actuators. Simply take them out, clean them with de-oxit or equivalent electronics cleaner, lube everything up door/lock/handle related, and should be good to go.

Also clean all your chassis grounds and de-oxit as many wiring harness connections you can find.
 

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Did you ever get this sorted out? my 2010 HL has just stared exhibiting the same issue.

Thanks
Ken
 

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I know this topic is out dated, however, I thought I would share so others could resolve this issue. I have been frivolously searching the internet for days for a solution to this all too common issue with Toyota Highlanders and other Toyota models.

Symptom:
Only Driver side door will unlock with key fob or internal lock/unlock switch.
You can manually unlock the Passenger and rear doors with the internal lock toggle switch on each door handle on the inside
Key fob will still LOCK all doors
When trying to open Passenger door from outside, you get 10 beeps

Cause:
The control module fuse box under the driver side dash area, below the steering wheel has a burnt out internal component
If you are lucky, it's only the fuse that has burnt out, but not likely

The actuators are NOT bad. I repeat, if your driver door unlocks and your passenger and rear doors do not, with your fob or manual internal button, you do not have 3 bad actuators. They are fine!

Solution:
I reached out to a user on Ebay, he sells a bypass kit for this exact issue. My problem though, he only sells it for the Camry. I reached out to him the other day and he believes he can come up with a version for the Highlander, since it has the same under-dash fuse box. I should hear back from him this week.

Here is the link to his fix for the Camry.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282374518691

I hope this information will help others. During my extensive searching I found this is not very uncommon at all. Specifically affecting the Highlander and Camry from at least 2008 and up.
 
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