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2013HL Ltd V6 AWD
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Cannot tell from your pictures which line that is. But, as was mentioned earlier,
the rusted out line is typically the horizontally running "metal P/S line right under the crankshaft pulley".
 

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when I last replaced my line, it didn't go up and over the rack, it began and ended in the wheel well area where it runs along the subframe. Just double check that you have the right part there.
 

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Mgeorge- you are right.


My leak is coming right at that elbow 90 degree turn, it is rusted there somewhere. Does anyone know what part that is? It almost appears as if I need to bend the part I received to make a 90 degree turn and it would be the correct part.
 

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2003 Highlander
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Alternative to metal PS return lines

Guys, as I mentioned in my "revival" post I did away with the piece of metal tubing that runs along the inside frame rail. Well I took that a step further by rerouting the new hose I put in in June 2018 doing away with the 2nd piece of metal tubing that runs along the frame rail next to the PS pump. I simply routed the newish PS hose from the reservoir to the piece of metal return line just below the firewall. (The original line-working in reverse to fluid flow-went from rubber to metal to rubber to metal to rubber to metal.) It now just goes rubber to metal. Period.
I looped the rubber hose 180 degrees back towards the firewall and dropped it down to the existing metal line. I even had to trim off about 6 inches.
To avoid the PS pulley I routed the hose back near the firewall well clear of the pulley. I re-used one rubber 90 deg. elbow from the upper line joined by piece of metal line trimmed from the original tubing to form a coupling w/two reused hose clamps. (Like I did last time). I secured everything to the frame and body work with two nylon hose clips I had on hand and a few nylon zip-ties. Cost: $0.
The clips are nylon, yes. Super-super tough and last a long-long time. (And don't rust.)
Haya...
 

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Would a similar method work for me you think? My fear is if i cut out the bad section of pipe and replace it with rubber tubing, the hose clamps will not be strong enough to prevent it from leaking as a drive and things move around.


I would have to cut it before the bracket that is bolted on, and just before the 90 degree turn metal section goes into the other rubber tubing.
 

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2003 Highlander
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No. Cut nothing.


Pull the rubber hose from the metal line that is mounted on top of the frame rail. This is down in the wheel well below the firewall. Then run a 3/8 inch ID piece of power steering hose (about 18-20 inches, I never measured it actually) up to the reservoir (side port) from there.
As I mentioned I inserted that 90 degree hose to keep the hose run away from the PS pulley/belt. Haya....


BTW- the line pressure is low here. Near atmospheric as this is just going up to the reservoir which is (partially) vented to atmosphere.
 

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I am in the middle of this tubing job myself. With at least my I4, there are options for a towing package. You will have a steering system cooler at the front of the radiator if you have the towing option. There are two metal lines going to the cooler. Both will rust. One to the fill reservoir directly (44406-48081), and the other metal line is under the crank pulley, headed for the steering rack (44416-48092). Note that there is another, short, metal return tube parallel and above the actual steering rack. I can't find a part no. for that one. Neither job is particularly difficult. The front plastic skid tray comes off and the RS wheel off helps a lot on the lower tube.

OH, and I find myself, for an unknown reason, using power steering fluid instead of ATF. It seems to work OK.
 

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I originally ordered 44416-48092 but that was incorrect, I needed the return pipe which is 4420-0E010. It is all metal with one end threaded.


You can clearly see which it is in the pictures. I'm going to take the passengers side wheel off, jack it up, and hopefully it is doable.
 

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For anyone concerned about hose clamps not being strong enough: When I am concerned about hose clamps not being strong enough, I take my double flaring tool and flare the ends of the metal that I am putting the rubber on to. A single flare will also work, but you will have a sharp edge. The flare makes a nice barb to hold your hose and clamp on and in my opinion helps make a better seal as well. However, on this particular fix, I opted not to bother and have had no problems.
 

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2003 Highlander
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Mgeorge: I like your tip regarding a nice flare on the metal line to ensure the hose stays put. I'm gonna remember that one.
BTW- when I modified my return line the section of metal line I used as a connector came from the old line I just eliminated. The end had two bumps already. I cut it so I kept both bumps. Thus far they have not come loose or anything. No drips.
2nd BTW- I have noticed there is more than one level of quality of spring-ear clamps used on the HL. The heavier ones on larger or higher pressure lines are fine and can be reused indefinitely. The lighter ones I do not like. The ears bend and are difficult to "catch" with a spring-clamp tool. I usually ditch those and replace with a good quality SS radiator clamp. Finest regards, Haya...
 
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