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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, my dad recently purchased a well maintained '96 Camry LE (American Edition). 4 cylinder auto.

However, the power windows are not working. They don't roll down via the master switch nor at the individual door switches.

I've done a fair amount of searching both with Google and here at TN on the subject. The threads I've found point to the problem being with the pink 30 amp switch under the steering wheel behind an HVAC pipe, HOWEVER, that fuse is good and the power locks and sunroof still work fine.

I've swapped out the master switch with two other junkyard pulls with no change. Do the power locks and windows share the same 12V feed? I want to check to see if there's 12V feeding the switch but that wouldn't help if power is shared with the locks, since the locks are working fine. I've poked the connector to the master switch with a test light but most of them make the power locks cycle... :ugh3:. I'd like to find this wire then trace it backwards in case it's shorted or something between the door and the body (but to me that would blow the lock/window/sunroof fuse).

I've taken one of the master switch units apart to see if I could trace which pin is the 12V feed but I can't make any sense of it (trained in electronics repair and certified computer tech :D).

Any help would be appreciated. My dad likes the car so far, a nice upgrade from his '95 Corolla. Thanks
 

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There is an accordian style boot inside the door hinge with a mess of wires inside
for all those controls. Separate this boot and pull back to get at wiring.
Look for cracked or broken wires from many years of flexing from door opening and closing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
correct...everything works except for the power windows.

I spose I'll take a look at the wiring in the area of the hinges
 

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Jeez, I actually benefited from your problem today. My power windows quit working too. None of the switches worked. I checked the fuse diagram and nothing said window. I thought it might be the "door" one but it's good. And the door lock on the master switch works.

Just did a search; this thread was the first in the list. Checked the big pinky, and it's blown.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good to hear it worked for you but my pink fuse is good.

I bought and downloaded a FSM via ebay and will be tearing into it tomorrow

:Bruce:I love cats
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Had three wires in the door hinge earlier that were shorted plus the insulation was bad on half a dozen others...soldered them back up and taped them, no change.

Nothing happens when pressing the window controls but hey, the driver's window goes down when LOCK or UNLOCK is pressed :eek:


Looked through my ebay-ed FSM and determined which wires were dedicated for the power locks at the master lock/window switch and snipped them...still rolling the driver's window down :headbang:

Ordered a NEW master switch, after two salvaged units. We shall see what happens
 

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Yeah, I doubt it would be your master switch, as none of your window switches work, thats a peculiar problem. Just i guess check the wiring from the fuse to the windows.
 

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You must have crossed a few wires.
I had same problem in an older vehicle.
Obtained some used flex ribbon cable, #16 conductors,multi stranded, color coded.
Industry uses this type of wiring in overhead crane controls.
I butt-spliced every wire; inside the door panel, and inside interior panel by feet.

But, factory car type wiring should be good for another 10 years.
More strands per conductor is more flexible and enduring.
Maybe worth checking wiring in other door hinges, switches are inter-connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
New (aftermarket) master switch arrived from ebay. Plugged it in and the windows work again :) (but still :headbang:)

It seems that the TWO salvage yard switches I tried were DOA. I opened up the original switch and one of the salvaged ones and both have burns marks on the contacts inside for the actual switches :eek:.

I thank you guys for the help. Sucks that I spent quite a bit of time chasing after some crossed wires though stuff probably would have been acting up anyway with the condition of the wires between the door and the body, including the three that were completely shorted.

:Bruce:
 

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Was the original problem with ALL of the window switches not working, or just the driver's side?

If none of them worked... replacing the master switch fixed the problem with ALL of them? I didn't know it worked that way.

I wonder if the switch from my 2000 would have worked for your car. I'm replacing mine with a newer one, but it works just find. Probably coulda sent it to you for free.



New (aftermarket) master switch arrived from ebay. Plugged it in and the windows work again :) (but still :headbang:)

It seems that the TWO salvage yard switches I tried were DOA. I opened up the original switch and one of the salvaged ones and both have burns marks on the contacts inside for the actual switches :eek:.

I thank you guys for the help. Sucks that I spent quite a bit of time chasing after some crossed wires though stuff probably would have been acting up anyway with the condition of the wires between the door and the body, including the three that were completely shorted.

:Bruce:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
All windows and switches were out of commission when the master switch was out :eek: (i.e. the window switches on the rear doors didn't work either)

I checked with the salvage yards and I guess the switch was changed in '97...appreciate the show of generosity though
 
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