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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I've read many posts in the hopes of self diagnosing.

Here's the story:
-Driver's side motor stuck, could get it going by hitting it.
-ordered part online
-installed new part, the rails were to short. Part will be returned.
-decided to switch defective motor with rear right passenger side.
-reinstalled driver's side: successfully working!
-reinstalled passenger side with only one bolt and tested out.
-motor went to far, it pulled the green wire stripping it slightly.
-everything stopped working

Fuses: checked, appear OK
Master switch: door locks work
Went to scrap yard and got a replacement Master switch... same problem: doors lock/unlock, but none of the windows work.
None of the individual windows neither.

What is left to check?

Thanks for your input.
 

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MildlyModded
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253 Posts
There is a power window relay as well. You probably shorted it out when the wire stripped and it contacted metal. Switch it out with another relay in the fuse box and test if everything works (if one will fit). If so, the relay is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am stomped

Hi,

I have looked for 'THE' relay position, but it is not clear to me if it is under the hood or elsewhere.

The interior fusebox does not appear to have any relays next to it?

Under the hood, there are 3 identical relays, that I have interchanged and tested the power windows, but without success.

If someone can confirm where is the power window relay, I would be eternally greatfull!

Cheers,

S

See picture
 

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MildlyModded
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253 Posts
Hmmm... I had to go look at my own fuse box to confirm. I don't see a power window relay in my engine bay fuse box either, which is weird because the manual says there is one. Im not able to look under the dash right now but im sure youre right about that as well.


Any moderators or more knowledgeable users have any insight on this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re-tested fuses and more

So...i went and bought a new circuit tester.

Made sure all windows had their motors plugged in, with switches plugged in the circuit.
Checked all fuses.
The 30 AMP one listed as P/W is functional.
Again...switched the 3 identical relays (fuse box under the hood) around to see if one was at fault.

Replaced the original power window controller, with the one I got at the scrap yard.

No success.

As for the plug of the power window controller harness, I probed all wires, none have current...

Started a list of arguments to convince my wife that she doesn't need functional windows...
 

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Administrator
マズダスピード3
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16,229 Posts
If you pull the arm rest cover, the window switch will be accessible.

When the windows last worked, did you notice any windows rolling up and down slower than normal?

Edit : next time you are at the junkyard, cut the connector that goes to the window regulator. I just use the battery to my drill to test. This way, you can rule out the regulator.
 

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2005 Corolla
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532 Posts
I would check driver front door jamb wiring. The wiring may have a break from all the opening and closing cycles of door. I would try wiggling them around to see any changes and also check wiring continuity.
 

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Super Moderator
2005 Corolla CE
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14,777 Posts
Go back to the passenger side rear and remove the regulator and motor assembly and check your wiring. Specifically, that green wire powers the motor itself.

Also the power window relay (which may be the culprit) is located in the dash fusebox. The relays are located over the top of the fuses, behind the coin holder. They are a fairly large pain to access.

If you send me a PM, I'll send you the repair manual documents for review.
 
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