[rarewolf]

I just bought a 2014 Tacoma TRD/OR, and now need to sell my ‘04 dbl-cab Prerunner. However, its passenger window will power down but not power up. This will have to be fixed before it'll pass its required safety inspection.

I had just replaced its battery and had lowered the window while being inside when it began to rain--the window wouldn't go back up, neither from driver or passenger control. It may be coincidental that replacing the battery had anything to do with the problem as I couldn't remember when the window last worked. One possibility is I may have created the problem when I replaced the audio head 3-4 months prior but can't be sure, nor can I imagine pertinent wiring behind the dash. The dealership claimed there must be an open somewhere but giving them an hour didn't allow for them finding it, and I chose to have them remove and cap the wires. The door jam harness appears to be in good condition.

I'm relatively knowledgeable about electronics. Can someone here point me at a description of how the windows are controlled, as well as likely locations for an open and best locations for checking for power? Is a wiring diagram available? Let me know if additional info is required.

TIA

 

[BamZipPow]

Do the other passenger windows work? Are you sure you didn't accidentally activate the window lock? If I recall, it's basically a ground break. If you did, a few cycles of the switch as it may be oxidized may need to be necessary in order fer it to work again.

Did motor sound like it was straining going down? You can power the motor directly and see if there are any issues with that aspect of it.

 

[rarewolf]

Do the other passenger windows work? Are you sure you didn't accidentally activate the window lock? If I recall, it's basically a ground break. If you did, a few cycles of the switch as it may be oxidized may need to be necessary in order fer it to work again.

Did motor sound like it was straining going down? You can power the motor directly and see if there are any issues with that aspect of it.

Thanks for the prompt reply...

This the only window of the 4 with a problem...

The motor is fine. The dealership simply used the "down" power to raise it before disconnecting...

 

[05Moose]

So it sound like it's not getting any "up" power. That about sum it up?

 

[krabkakes95]

The circuit is quite simple. There should be 2 wires at the motor... The switch simply reverses polarity.

For example:
If you supply power to pin 1 and ground to pin 2, the motor rotates clockwise which raises the window.

If you supply power to pin 2 and ground to pin 1 (switch the polarity), the motor rotates counterclockwise which lowers the window.


The correct way to diagnose this is to go to the motor and disconnect the connector. Using a multimeter, check for power and ground while the switch is in the up and down position.

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[rarewolf]

The circuit is quite simple. There should be 2 wires at the motor... The switch simply reverses polarity.
...
The correct way to diagnose this is to go to the motor and disconnect the connector. Using a multimeter, check for power and ground while the switch is in the up and down position.

If the switches (master & passenger) simply switch the polarity, and 'down' works, how can either of the wires be open. Or, would it be accurate to conclude the wire that provides power for 'up' is somehow shorted at some unknown location?



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[krabkakes95]

If the switches (master & passenger) simply switch the polarity, and 'down' works, how can either of the wires be open. Or, would it be accurate to conclude the wire that provides power for 'up' is somehow shorted at some unknown location?



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Neither of the wires can be open if down works. Likewise, they cannot be shorted.

You really have two possibilities. The first is a failed switch and the second is a failed motor. By checking for switched power at the motor, you're testing the switch.

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[BamZipPow]

Give this a try...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diagnose-power-window-problem.157436/#post-6701370

 

[rarewolf]

Neither of the wires can be open if down works. Likewise, they cannot be shorted.

You really have two possibilities. The first is a failed switch and the second is a failed motor. By checking for switched power at the motor, you're testing the switch.

In my case don't both switches need to be bad? ...i.e., neither switch would lift the window. Or...if the master is bad will the door's also not work?

 

[krabkakes95]

In my case don't both switches need to be bad? ...i.e., neither switch would lift the window. Or...if the master is bad will the door's also not work?

That really depends on the wiring on the specific vehicle. I'm unsure of how this vehicle is wired exactly.

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[rarewolf]

That really depends on the wiring on the specific vehicle. I'm unsure of how this vehicle is wired exactly.

Thanks krabcakes. In either case, your tests should be valid. Unfortunately for this topic I'll not be able to get around to this project until it warms up a bit here in Newfoundland...but I will report back...either with more questions, or the fix...



2014 Tacoma V6 6-sad Access cab TRD/OR

 

[rarewolf]

Thanks krabcakes. In either case, your tests should be valid. Unfortunately for this topic I'll not be able to get around to this project until it warms up a bit here in Newfoundland...but I will report back...either with more questions, or the fix...

It's finally warmed up enough for troubleshooting this window problem in comfort, and I think I have a bad pass-side switch.

Unfortunately I cannot swap it with another, but checking the continuity on a good switch (5 connectors) finds 2 pairs shorted when in default position (I.e., neither up/down). This makes sense (correct me if I'm wrong) as the master switch should be sending ground to both sides of the motor, while if down or up one of these pairs will change over to 12V.

For the switch in question, the wire layout isn't the same but I can only find one pair that is shorted, but I do have 12V on one of the other pins so an open 12V wire shouldn't be the problem.

I thought I'd check back for some thoughts because these switches are $90 here in Canada...

 

[Bitter]

I'll bet the rear window switches use the same connector as the front passenger, you may be able to plug one of them in the front to test that it's a bad switch.

 

[rarewolf]

I'll bet the rear window switches use the same connector as the front passenger, you may be able to plug one of them in the front to test that it's a bad switch.

It would've been the best procedure for knowing for sure, but unfortunately the connector isn't the same, and the layout of the pins (left to right) didn't seem to be the same either.

 

[Bitter]

Dang, works with Honda and Nissan. Same number of 5 pins, but slightly different connectors it looks like. I guess you could re-pin but that switch is only $35 on RockAuto, I imagine it can be found for similar prices up there. Same switch as the pass front on the following vehicles:

SCION TC 2011-2015
SCION XB 2008-2015
SCION XD 2008-2012
TOYOTA CAMRY 2007-2012
TOYOTA COROLLA 2009-2015
TOYOTA FJ CRUISER 2012-2014
TOYOTA HIGHLANDER 2008-2012
TOYOTA MATRIX 2009-2012
TOYOTA PRIUS C 2012-2015
TOYOTA RAV4 2006-2015
TOYOTA SEQUOIA 2008-2015
TOYOTA TACOMA 2012-2015
TOYOTA TUNDRA 2007-2015
TOYOTA YARIS 2007-2015

 

[rarewolf]

Dang, works with Honda and Nissan. Same number of 5 pins, but slightly different connectors it looks like. I guess you could re-pin but that switch is only $35 on RockAuto, I imagine it can be found for similar prices up there. Same switch as the pass front on the following vehicles:

Strange to see so many newer vehicles on your list. Here is the least expensive I could find in Canada. I'll be placing the order later today...



https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/DORMAN/901701/

EDIT: Switch received, and now the window works in both directions ...