[redneck45]

Here is a wierd one. 1986 yota 22r 4x2 long bed. Truck runs perfect, all new tune up, belts, hoses, thermo, valve cover gasket, pvc, fuel filter, etc. 113,000 miles. Would still get antifreeze leaking at the upper and lower rad hoses, so I kept tightening down the clamps, finally got it to where I had no more leaks. Then one day, I fire it up (it was cold) so high idle was on, and as it sat there idleing antifreeze drips from the upper rad hose where it goes into the thermo. So I tighten the clamp some more and it stops. I feel the hose, and it is rock hard. So I crack open the rad cap and get a puke of antifreeze and hose is soft again. After testing this for several days it does the same thing every morrning, pressure builds up at cold start up---then after it gets warm and the thermo opens the hosea are tight but not rock hard. I don't lose antifreeze except when I open the cap at start up. The truck does use about a quart of oil in 3000 miles. No oil in antifreeze. I do get a small amount of the milky goo under the oil filler cap. I think this is a very small head gasket leak pressurizing the rad and hoses that stops when the engine gets upto temp--due to exspansion! What do you guys think? Maybe do an oil analysis?

 

[redneck45]

Also forgot to note, when I changed the plugs there was heavy white build up on them.

 

[redneck45]

And when I had the cover off the T chain/housing looked fine. Thinkin it should be easy to pull the head with both manifolds still attached and just slide a new head gasket in there.

 

[toysrus]

just a thought

And when I had the cover off the T chain/housing looked fine. Thinkin it should be easy to pull the head with both manifolds still attached and just slide a new head gasket in there.

It is not a hard thing to pull the head on the 22r but you will want to take care in the bolts and do as the book tells you . May want to think about replacing the bolts with new and checking the head for cracks in the water jacket . make sure to use just a touch of silcon were the timing cover meets the head gasket . May want to replace valve stem seals .

It may be a good time to think about replacing the timing chain when you pull the head as well . It is recommended the timing chain be replaced at 60 thousand miles the thing to check would be the tencher for ware for the plastic heads on them get deep groves in them and they let the chain slake then it will let the chain slap around and bust the bottom of the guide chanel . once the head is off you should be able to inspect this better .

have a good day

 

[redneck45]

Replace t-chain a 60k? really? main reason I bought this truck was cause of the reliablity of the engine. I have a buddy with well over 300k on one and it has never been apart. I was planning on just replacin the guides if they were worn, the t-chain should last much longer than 114k!

 

[Tenpin842]

I changed mine because I rebuilt the motor. 153,000. And thats because I put it in a 5' deep water hole and it hydrolocked on me. I would take off the exhaust manafold and have someone pressure test the coolent. I would take it all apart if you dont have to. Are you sure the thermostat is in the right way?

I took everything in to get redone, and had them clean and check the crank....it was still in the factory specs! I thought i would have to have it turned. But All I did was have it polished. Thats 153,000 miles on it.....22R's are a pretty sweet motor.....if you dont dump it in a water hole at Silver Lake, MI LOL!!!!!

 

[redneck45]

Hmm, put thermo in just as the old one came out.

 

[Tenpin842]

I would take it out, and make sure its not stuck closed. boil some watter and toss it in. Make sure it opens up all the way.

 

[toysrus]

Replace t-chain a 60k? really? main reason I bought this truck was cause of the reliablity of the engine. I have a buddy with well over 300k on one and it has never been apart. I was planning on just replacin the guides if they were worn, the t-chain should last much longer than 114k!

I know the 22r is a good motor just about bullet proof , But the time chain get stretchedand will flap around braking the guide along with making the groves in the tensioner if this goes to long it will cut through the water jacket on the timing chain cover were the hose hook to it. if this happens will put coolant right down into the oil pan and the pickup tube will run this through the rest of the motor as it would oil .

I have found this on more then one truck for I own 6 myself but you do not have to take my word for it just something you may want to check .

 

[84yotapup]

yep the timing chain guides are the one and only weakness in the 22R. unless you have someone who doesn't know how to dirve it with a manual tranny. then you're screwed. although it is very forgiving it gets to a point where it won't take abuse very well.

 

[redneck45]

Well, it is losing coolant everso slowly, not onto the ground, but into the crankcase. I am pulling the valve cover again this weekend to check for the chain wearing into the cover again, if it ain't that then its got to be a headgasket issue. The motor is very smooth and quiet it runs perfect.

 

[Tenpin842]

my motor had 153,000 miles and the guides were barely worn. Let us know what you find!

 

[redneck45]

Pulled valve cover and looking down at both sides of the chain and it looks like the guides are all there, could the chain still contact the housing if the guides are in place. If the housing is being worn, can I see that from just pulling the valve cover and lookin down into the housing? Really can't see much in there. How do I pressurize the cooling system to see if any antifreeze comes in?

 

[redneck45]

Ok, I did find a the top part of the guide from the drivers side laying in the bottom of the cover. Put pressure in the system and no leaks into the timing cover! (and I had enough pressure to get the top rad hose to leak)! Could not see the chain contacting the cover anywhere. So I pulled my fresh plugs (4000miles) and they were almost as bad as the old plugs (encrusted with hard white build up). I really believe it to be a head gasket. Man that is going to be a major job, cause once I dive in I go all the way! I am thinkin this way--Who knows how long this coolant has been gettin in the crankcase--I know of 4000 miles cause that is how long I had it--so drive it till it quites and put in a remain motor for like a grand or less. Or pull it apart and do the t-chain and head gasket--not knowin how long the cam or rod or main bearins are going to hold out!? Or just sell the damn thing--thats prolly what happened to me when I bought it!

 

[toysrus]

you probly know this

Ok, I did find a the top part of the guide from the drivers side laying in the bottom of the cover. Put pressure in the system and no leaks into the timing cover! (and I had enough pressure to get the top rad hose to leak)! Could not see the chain contacting the cover anywhere. So I pulled my fresh plugs (4000miles) and they were almost as bad as the old plugs (encrusted with hard white build up). I really believe it to be a head gasket. Man that is going to be a major job, cause once I dive in I go all the way! I am thinkin this way--Who knows how long this coolant has been gettin in the crankcase--I know of 4000 miles cause that is how long I had it--so drive it till it quites and put in a remain motor for like a grand or less. Or pull it apart and do the t-chain and head gasket--not knowin how long the cam or rod or main bearins are going to hold out!? Or just sell the damn thing--thats prolly what happened to me when I bought it!

In a way good to hear that you did not have a leak in timing chain cover... still sucks going to have to pull the head and replace the head gasket... I hope you are not hearnig a knocking noise in the lower motor for this would be the crank bearings .

reading your message the one spot you would be looking for the leak in cover would be driver side top right were the cooling system is hooking into the cover . But doing the pressor check was a good Idea hats off to you .

White shit on plugs I do beleave is a sign of coolant getting into the cylinders
but should have had a lack of power when you was driving it .

Been getting my parts at advance head gasket under 20 buck and the timing chain kit was like 70 bucks gears chain and all but the timeing chain cover gasket . may want to think about replacing front main seal as well for I have found after pulling timing chain cover this will make them leak and can get the seal for under 5 bucks .

going to want to drop the oil pan a little so can get the timing cover back on with out damaging the oil pan gasket or head gasket .

I know it is no fun doing this for I have done this more time then I care to count with my own truck as well as for friends but if it was not for doing this The truck I am driving would not be running at 235000 plus miles and not using any oil .

like with any auto pain in the but when not running right but whey they are can be a ball .

 

[redneck45]

Well, I got a funny feelin it has been doing this for a while--even before I had it. It has no knocks, in fact not noise what so ever and runs at 100% power at all times. It is using very little coolant--took about two months and 4000 miles to use what little was in the resevoir, it is now about an 1/8" below the rad filler neck. So if I keep fresh oil in it it may run a long time. I did re-torque the head bolts with the wrench set at 60ftlbs and the wrench clicked before it moved the bolt on all bolts.

 

[redneck45]

Another wierd thing. If this was a head gasket, how could EVERY cylinder be getting antifreeze--causing the plugs to get the white crusty stuff on them. You would need a coolant leak into the intake manifold--is that possible on a 22R?

 

[84yotapup]

maybe you're getting antifreeze in the oil pan and you've got bad piston rings and it leaks past the rings with the oil. just a guess

 

[redneck45]

Good point, it does use about a qt of oil in 4000 miles. Maybe just sell it. I got people stopping by all the time asking if I want to!