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The thing I am running into is the dealer lowballing me on my trade-in value. Trading a 2011 AWD Limited with Premium JBL, big screen Navigation, a few other options, really it is quite loaded. Kelley Blue Book and a couple of other calculators are telling me it should be around 29-30 thousand trade in....it is in very very good condition, outside, inside, leather, never any mechanical issues for me in 3 years......but dealer offered 25,500....I told him TOO LOW.
 

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The thing I am running into is the dealer lowballing me on my trade-in value. Trading a 2011 AWD Limited with Premium JBL, big screen Navigation, a few other options, really it is quite loaded. Kelley Blue Book and a couple of other calculators are telling me it should be around 29-30 thousand trade in....it is in very very good condition, outside, inside, leather, never any mechanical issues for me in 3 years......but dealer offered 25,500....I told him TOO LOW.
Just go to another dealer in the area if you have one. Send them the VIN# on your used vehicle, that way you don't even need to set foot on the dealership floor until you find the trade-in value your are happy with.

Brad
 

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The thing I am running into is the dealer lowballing me on my trade-in value. Trading a 2011 AWD Limited with Premium JBL, big screen Navigation, a few other options, really it is quite loaded. Kelley Blue Book and a couple of other calculators are telling me it should be around 29-30 thousand trade in....it is in very very good condition, outside, inside, leather, never any mechanical issues for me in 3 years......but dealer offered 25,500....I told him TOO LOW.
Don't know if you live close to a Carmax but if so, go to them. Even the dealer I bought from said they were much more aggressive than reg dealers. Having been in the business for years myself I put a value on my 2010 Venza of $18K. The dealer tried to tell me how soft the market was so I went to Carmax and they took it for $19K. Book it out for yourself on edmunds.com and you can pretty much rest assured that Carmax will come close to or even beat it.
 

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Don't know if you live close to a Carmax but if so, go to them. Even the dealer I bought from said they were much more aggressive than reg dealers. Having been in the business for years myself I put a value on my 2010 Venza of $18K. The dealer tried to tell me how soft the market was so I went to Carmax and they took it for $19K. Book it out for yourself on edmunds.com and you can pretty much rest assured that Carmax will come close to or even beat it.
I went to Carmax in Laurel to purchase the 2011 Limited. My trade in was the 2004 4Runner. I searched out the trade in on several sites beforehand, was getting $16000. In the end Carmax only offerred $13,000. That was the first time I had to question Carmax's pricing. I dedided to do it. Then saw my vehicle in their pre-owned inventory a week later....knew it was mine....it was being sold for $19,000...something tells me I didn't make a very good deal with them last time.:disappoin
 

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I went to Carmax in Laurel to purchase the 2011 Limited. My trade in was the 2004 4Runner. I searched out the trade in on several sites beforehand, was getting $16000. In the end Carmax only offerred $13,000. That was the first time I had to question Carmax's pricing. I dedided to do it. Then saw my vehicle in their pre-owned inventory a week later....knew it was mine....it was being sold for $19,000...something tells me I didn't make a very good deal with them last time.:disappoin
Even so I am going to try and get down there just for an appraisal of my 2011 HL before I actually see a vehicle that I want....then see what they come up with.
 

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I'm wondering has anyone here negotiated with a salesperson who was not in the internet/fleet dept.? This tends to be the biggest mistake of car buying.

Word of wisdom. One of many out there, I'm sure. IMO the best way to negotiate is in person, and not with a salesperson, but with at a minimum the new vehicle sales manager. The cost of these vehicles is posted all over the internet so finding that out is no big deal. Getting close to that price is. The sales manager controls what he will sell the vehicle for. Sometimes he may have to get the GSM or dealer principal involved, but very rarely. The problem is that dealing with a salesperson and in particular an experienced salesperson, is that if they don't like the deal, or there's not enough profit in it for them, or if a similar deal has been turned down before, they may just immediately say they can't accept it or what they offered was the best they could do, or the manager said this was all I can knock off. Typical comment on a new vehicle would be that they are just so hot now that we can't keep them in stock! Have your numbers in line and don't be unrealistic. Let them make a little profit, little being the operative word. Then be prepared to walk if your not comfortable with the price. Never fall in love with a piece of metal. Yes, the last week of the month is typically the best time to negotiate a deal. Managers are under much more stress than a salesperson to meet quotas and if you walk on a reasonable deal you are much more likely to get a call from a manager that a salesperson would just pass on. Good luck to all.
 

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Word of wisdom. One of many out there, I'm sure. IMO the best way to negotiate is in person, and not with a salesperson, but with at a minimum the new vehicle sales manager. The cost of these vehicles is posted all over the internet so finding that out is no big deal. Getting close to that price is. The sales manager controls what he will sell the vehicle for. Sometimes he may have to get the GSM or dealer principal involved, but very rarely. The problem is that dealing with a salesperson and in particular an experienced salesperson, is that if they don't like the deal, or there's not enough profit in it for them, or if a similar deal has been turned down before, they may just immediately say they can't accept it or what they offered was the best they could do, or the manager said this was all I can knock off. Typical comment on a new vehicle would be that they are just so hot now that we can't keep them in stock! Have your numbers in line and don't be unrealistic. Let them make a little profit, little being the operative word. Then be prepared to walk if your not comfortable with the price. Never fall in love with a piece of metal. Yes, the last week of the month is typically the best time to negotiate a deal. Managers are under much more stress than a salesperson to meet quotas and if you walk on a reasonable deal you are much more likely to get a call from a manager that a salesperson would just pass on. Good luck to all.
Good advice! Thanks! My dad always told me, "Never want something so badly you are willing to pay any price to get it."
 

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discussion is great, but let's keep it a minimum.
Let's get some pricing of What everyone has paid for their HL and not what they are trying to get it for. This thread is for "Prices Paid for 2014's".
Enjoy!!!!
Pricing info is great but people need to know more than what their neighbors paid! They also need to know how they did it and possibly what other vehicles they considered. If you're so intent on keeping this just to pricing info you may want to copy and paste all pricing info from this thread into another one and asking this forums moderator to make it a sticky. But, trying to limit a discussion to just your topic is an exercise in futility IMO. Just as limiting a thread on mods might be. It starts out listing your mods and then others listing theirs and then others wanting to know how they did it or what they paid or where they purchased from. It just envolves and that makes for a good board IMO.
 

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Pricing info is great but people need to know more than what their neighbors paid! They also need to know how they did it and possibly what other vehicles they considered. If you're so intent on keeping this just to pricing info you may want to copy and paste all pricing info from this thread into another one and asking this forums moderator to make it a sticky. But, trying to limit a discussion to just your topic is an exercise in futility IMO. Just as limiting a thread on mods might be. It starts out listing your mods and then others listing theirs and then others wanting to know how they did it or what they paid or where they purchased from. It just envolves and that makes for a good board IMO.
I will update the OP to add any tips when making the purchase.
Great discussions and let's keep it rolling for more 2014 HL owners!~!

:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Word of wisdom. One of many out there, I'm sure. IMO the best way to negotiate is in person, and not with a salesperson, but with at a minimum the new vehicle sales manager. The cost of these vehicles is posted all over the internet so finding that out is no big deal. Getting close to that price is. The sales manager controls what he will sell the vehicle for. Sometimes he may have to get the GSM or dealer principal involved, but very rarely. The problem is that dealing with a salesperson and in particular an experienced salesperson, is that if they don't like the deal, or there's not enough profit in it for them, or if a similar deal has been turned down before, they may just immediately say they can't accept it or what they offered was the best they could do, or the manager said this was all I can knock off. Typical comment on a new vehicle would be that they are just so hot now that we can't keep them in stock! Have your numbers in line and don't be unrealistic. Let them make a little profit, little being the operative word. Then be prepared to walk if your not comfortable with the price. Never fall in love with a piece of metal. Yes, the last week of the month is typically the best time to negotiate a deal. Managers are under much more stress than a salesperson to meet quotas and if you walk on a reasonable deal you are much more likely to get a call from a manager that a salesperson would just pass on. Good luck to all.
Every car that I purchased over the past 15 years has been already negotiated before I step on the lot. In addition to that, the prices have been lower than almost anyone else pays, and by a lot. Negotiating pricing with internet sales people makes car buying less stressful.

Good tip about not getting too emotional on the lot, lgb. Go fall in love with a car by walking on the lot and test driving it. If you love it, go back home and call/email the salesperson who helped you (because you at least want to give him a shot of earning your biz) and also call/email the internet dept of all dealers within a 50 mile radius. If you love to haggle, the pricing from internet depts tend to be negotiable.

Never negotiate on the lot. After the test drive the salesperson will try to get you into the store to 'work out some numbers'. Don't do this. Thank him for the test drive and tell him that you have to get home. Then negotiate from home.
 

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I am surprised there is not more discussion about your trade-in values. THAT is where dealers make their most money, not on the sale of the new vehicles. That is where they can lowball you, even slightly, and still pocket a grand or two that could have been "shared" with you instead, and lowered your taxable purchase price too (at least for MD don't know about all states).
 

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I am surprised there is not more discussion about your trade-in values. THAT is where dealers make their most money, not on the sale of the new vehicles. That is where they can lowball you, even slightly, and still pocket a grand or two that could have been "shared" with you instead, and lowered your taxable purchase price too (at least for MD don't know about all states).
That's the reason why a trade in should never even be brought up until you have negotiated your best price on the new one. They love to dwell on payments and trade differences. The idea is to get you off of the main objective which is to get the lowest price possible. The best thing to do when they start talking about payments is to tell them you haven't decided how you are going to pay for it and would appreciate just getting a price on the vehicle. Don't be deterred from your main objective. If the salesperson persist in approaching the deal from a perspective you don't want, ask to speak with a manager. Above all else, be prepared to negotiate. Know what the value of your vehicle is before walking into the dealership. Know how much your payments will be by using an auto loan calculator you can find anywhere on the net. Have your own financing arranged if needed before entering the negotiation stage. Last but not least, be realistic when negotiating. To expect a dealer to take a loss on a vehicle is just plain stupid IMO.
 

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That's the reason why a trade in should never even be brought up until you have negotiated your best price on the new one. They love to dwell on payments and trade differences. The idea is to get you off of the main objective which is to get the lowest price possible. The best thing to do when they start talking about payments is to tell them you haven't decided how you are going to pay for it and would appreciate just getting a price on the vehicle. Don't be deterred from your main objective. If the salesperson persist in approaching the deal from a perspective you don't want, ask to speak with a manager. Above all else, be prepared to negotiate. Know what the value of your vehicle is before walking into the dealership. Know how much your payments will be by using an auto loan calculator you can find anywhere on the net. Have your own financing arranged if needed before entering the negotiation stage. Last but not least, be realistic when negotiating. To expect a dealer to take a loss on a vehicle is just plain stupid IMO.
Also, keep in mind that many dealers can make a decent profit even if the selling price is close to the cost of the vehicle. Really no need to be paying way above the actual cost. They can even be sold below cost at a profit under certain conditions, like if Toyota is offering a rebate and other things. Just keep that in mind too while negotiating.
 

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Hey guys! I thought I should put in my 5cent for what is worth. I think the negociation can be successuful both ways just depends if you are made for one for the other. If you can hold your ground and know your price before walk in I think you can go to the dealer and spend some time face to face, going back in forth until you get what you want. If you just hate going through all the hustling match I think you can do very well from your computer desktop. My experience when buying my HL ended with over 4g off the MSRP without having to make one single phone call. I started with making my choice of trim, colors and optionals then I just went to the main toyota web and sent about 10 requests for quotes to different dealers. You will get very different numbers but remember, the game just started. Choose your best offer and send it back to the other ones asking them if they can beat it. Eventually you will end up with 2-3 dealers going back in forth. Never talk on the phone, just ask to be contacted by email only. Always copy paste the best offer in your counter offers. One other think that I think you should keep for youtself until you got the price you want is the trade in and the financing details. If you have a trade in wait until you get the best price for the new one before strating to negociate your old car value. If needed you can do the same thing you did for the new one. If you are going to pay cash, the dealer should not know that before hand because they make money off the financing also and if they find out that you pay cash they will hold on to a higher price. It worked well for me, I actually counter offer them even at the dealer as the other seller emailed me with an extra package just to make me go there. Hope this will work for others too. Good luck! P.s . I love my new HL!
 

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Hey guys! I thought I should put in my 5cent for what is worth. I think the negociation can be successuful both ways just depends if you are made for one for the other. If you can hold your ground and know your price before walk in I think you can go to the dealer and spend some time face to face, going back in forth until you get what you want. If you just hate going through all the hustling match I think you can do very well from your computer desktop. My experience when buying my HL ended with over 4g off the MSRP without having to make one single phone call. I started with making my choice of trim, colors and optionals then I just went to the main toyota web and sent about 10 requests for quotes to different dealers. You will get very different numbers but remember, the game just started. Choose your best offer and send it back to the other ones asking them if they can beat it. Eventually you will end up with 2-3 dealers going back in forth. Never talk on the phone, just ask to be contacted by email only. Always copy paste the best offer in your counter offers. One other think that I think you should keep for youtself until you got the price you want is the trade in and the financing details. If you have a trade in wait until you get the best price for the new one before strating to negociate your old car value. If needed you can do the same thing you did for the new one. If you are going to pay cash, the dealer should not know that before hand because they make money off the financing also and if they find out that you pay cash they will hold on to a higher price. It worked well for me, I actually counter offer them even at the dealer as the other seller emailed me with an extra package just to make me go there. Hope this will work for others too. Good luck! P.s . I love my new HL!

well said. now let's see some pictures of your new HL.
 

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Hey guys! I thought I should put in my 5cent for what is worth. I think the negociation can be successuful both ways just depends if you are made for one for the other. If you can hold your ground and know your price before walk in I think you can go to the dealer and spend some time face to face, going back in forth until you get what you want. If you just hate going through all the hustling match I think you can do very well from your computer desktop. My experience when buying my HL ended with over 4g off the MSRP without having to make one single phone call. I started with making my choice of trim, colors and optionals then I just went to the main toyota web and sent about 10 requests for quotes to different dealers. You will get very different numbers but remember, the game just started. Choose your best offer and send it back to the other ones asking them if they can beat it. Eventually you will end up with 2-3 dealers going back in forth. Never talk on the phone, just ask to be contacted by email only. Always copy paste the best offer in your counter offers. One other think that I think you should keep for youtself until you got the price you want is the trade in and the financing details. If you have a trade in wait until you get the best price for the new one before strating to negociate your old car value. If needed you can do the same thing you did for the new one. If you are going to pay cash, the dealer should not know that before hand because they make money off the financing also and if they find out that you pay cash they will hold on to a higher price. It worked well for me, I actually counter offer them even at the dealer as the other seller emailed me with an extra package just to make me go there. Hope this will work for others too. Good luck! P.s . I love my new HL!
Great advice...that will be my strategy too...thanks for posting your experince and outcome.
 

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I will have some pictures soon. I have to give it a wash first, here in Chicago area is been a very nasty weather all this winter! I am waiting also to have my side moldings and running boards instaled first.
That's the extra I negociated when they give me the best price. I ask them what they will trow in to make me go with one or the other.
 

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Congratulations . Is this consists of Rear Entertainment system as well?

Hello. Long time lurker here (well since we started researching cars)

1. XLE (Black on Black), 2nd row bench
2. AWD
3. MSRP: $38,789
[$37,500 base + $429 options (carpet floor mats, cargo liner, cargo net, rear
bumper applique, wheel locks) + $860 destination]
INVOICE: $35,874
PAID: $35,016 (not including taxes, registration fee)
4: MA

Was very hard to find an XLE in a dark color that had 2nd row bench seats. There were only a couple at the 3 dealerships we went to that had the XLE with 2nd row bench but they were in Blizzard Pearl. We really liked the Predawn Mica Gray, but none with the configuration we wanted were incoming. So we got the black, which still looks really, really sharp. From this forum and from truecar.com and kbb.com, I think we did alright on the deal. This one dealership beat all the other ones we went to, and even though it was about 40 miles away, was worth it to save the money.
 
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