[CarryMeBF]

I have an automatic 2001 Camry V6. I recently had my transmission fluid changed (01/11). Especially now that it is cold, it seems the first time (first use of the day) that my car shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear it requires me to get the car up to about 2800-2900 RPMs instead of what is usual around 2000 RPM. I can get it up to 2700 and it won't go, let off the accelerator and it will just run back down in 2nd gear.

After it shifts into the 3rd for the first time (during that drive when the car was started cold), then it doesn't do it again.

Any thoughts?

 

[JohnGD]

The transmission is slipping. That's not good. It may be because of low ATF level. Hopefully this is the case and not other internal problems. I think many members can actually do a better job maintaining cars themselves.

Can you double check ATF condition and level? What fluid did the shop use? I hope it's not T-IV.

The 01 Aisin A541E transmission takes plain Dexron III type fluids, such as Walmart SuperTech ATF or SuperTech Mercon-V. Always read the label for suitable applications.

 

[CarryMeBF]

The transmission is slipping. That's not good. It may be because of low ATF level. Hopefully this is the case and not other internal problems.

Can you double check ATF condition and level? What fluid did the shop use? I hope it's not T-IV.

The 01 Aisin A541E transmission takes plain Dexron III type fluids, such as Walmart SuperTech ATF or SuperTech Mercon-V. Always read the label for suitable applications.

NOt sure what they used, but it says right on the dipstick what to use...

I'll take a pic of the levels and condition, and you tell me what you think.

 

[JohnGD]

The ATF level needs to be checked on level ground with the engine running at operating temperature (rad fan on once or twice). Shift through all gears, stopping in each a few seconds and then back in Park. With your parking brake applied of course.

Sometimes it may be hard to read the level because of smears. In that case, wipe clean the dipstick, quickly insert and pull out.

 

[CarryMeBF]

The ATF level needs to be checked on level ground with the engine running at operating temperature (rad fan on once or twice). Shift through all gears, stopping in each a few seconds and then back in Park. With your parking brake applied of course.

Sometimes it may be hard to read the level because of smears. In that case, wipe clean the dipstick, quickly insert and pull out.

Ah, I'll do this later today after I get back from an errand.

 

[CarryMeBF]

There is the condition and the red mark is where I saw a dry spot. So it looks a little low...

I had the fluid changed early 2011, and I have probably only travelled 10k miles at most.

 

[Rowdyrod]

You may have a shift solenoid going out. They are attached to the valve body inside the trans oil pan. Mine did the same thing in first gear. Replacing the solenoid did not work. Should you try a solenoid do NOT buy it from a dealer. If you can find someone with a Snapon brand switch box they can test the transmission manually and see what is wrong.

 

[CarryMeBF]

You may have a shift solenoid going out. They are attached to the valve body inside the trans oil pan. Mine did the same thing in first gear. Replacing the solenoid did not work. Should you try a solenoid do NOT buy it from a dealer. If you can find someone with a Snapon brand switch box they can test the transmission manually and see what is wrong.

What is a switch box? Have a link or better description of what is involved in that?

 

[mgartner0622]

There is the condition and the red mark is where I saw a dry spot. So it looks a little low...

I had the fluid changed early 2011, and I have probably only travelled 10k miles at most.

If you had it changed THAT recently, I'm pretty sure it should still retain some of its brilliant red color. It doesn't look very "fresh" to me. I'll go out to my car later and take a pic for you. I last did my fluid about 9k ago.

 

[mgartner0622]

OK, just took a picture. The fluid isn't as red as I expected it to be on a white piece of paper, however I took it on one so we could directly compare. Mine is more very light pink/clear when your's definitely has a shade of brown/grey to it.

 

[CarryMeBF]

OK, just took a picture. The fluid isn't as red as I expected it to be on a white piece of paper, however I took it on one so we could directly compare. Mine is more very light pink/clear when your's definitely has a shade of brown/grey to it.

So does that mean it wasn't changed properly or that something else is wrong causing it to do this?

 

[mgartner0622]

So does that mean it wasn't changed properly or that something else is wrong causing it to do this?

Well, it depends on what you mean by "changed"
They can change the pain fluid, which only changes about 1/6 or less of the fluid in the system. If this was done, it would easily change back to brownish colored fluid, as it would mix in with the older fluid you had in the system.

If you had a flush done, it should look pretty close to the picture I provided.

 

[CarryMeBF]

Well, it depends on what you mean by "changed"
They can change the pain fluid, which only changes about 1/6 or less of the fluid in the system. If this was done, it would easily change back to brownish colored fluid, as it would mix in with the older fluid you had in the system.

If you had a flush done, it should look pretty close to the picture I provided.

Got it thanks. Mistake: Me, I got it changed.

How much avg. for transmission flush?

 

[mgartner0622]

Got it thanks. Mistake: Me, I got it changed.

How much avg. for transmission flush?

If you're confident in your abilities you can do it yourself: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280006
You probably don't want to do the pan since that's probably already been done, but just the latter part with the hose that you remove.

If you want a shop to do it it should be around $70.

 

[JohnGD]

That doesn't look too good for a 10K old fluid, your ATF should look more like mgartner0622's (his got a hint of pink but yours can pass for motor oil if not for the dipstick). It's a bit low and 8 oz should take it into the HOT range. But at this point I think 3 drains/refills may be called for. If you're not mechanically inclined I'd start with drains/refills instead of the cooler line flush method. I'd first bring the ATF into the HOT region, and then measure what you drain out and just add that amount back in. It's the easiest. A gallon of Dexron-III type SuperTech at Walmart is about $13.

As far as the shift solenoids go, they usually will cause MIL or blinking "D" light. If you need a diagnosis, instead of the corner garage I would look up an ATRA transmission rebuilders association member shop. Some are duds, but better than any corner garage.

http://members.atra.com/?page=Shop_Membership

But I'd do the 3 drains/refills and see how the transmission responds first. Because usually the first thing done is to change the ATF and wipe clean the pan before anything else. I'd start with the cheap stuff first.

There is the condition and the red mark is where I saw a dry spot. So it looks a little low...

I had the fluid changed early 2011, and I have probably only travelled 10k miles at most.

 

[CarryMeBF]

That doesn't look too good for a 10K old fluid, your ATF should look more like mgartner0622's (his got a hint of pink but yours can pass for motor oil if not for the dipstick). It's a bit low and 8 oz should take it into the HOT range. But at this point I think 3 drains/refills may be called for. If you're not mechanically inclined I'd start with drains/refills instead of the cooler line flush method. I'd first bring the ATF into the HOT region, and then measure what you drain out and just add that amount back in. It's the easiest. A gallon of Dexron-III type SuperTech at Walmart is about $13.

As far as the shift solenoids go, they usually will cause MIL or blinking "D" light. If you need a diagnosis, instead of the corner garage I would look up an ATRA transmission rebuilders association member shop. Some are duds, but better than any corner garage.

http://members.atra.com/?page=Shop_Membership

But I'd do the 3 drains/refills and see how the transmission responds first. Because usually the first thing done is to change the ATF and wipe clean the pan before anything else. I'd start with the cheap stuff first.

Knowledge is very helpful. Thanks for the help guys.

I think I can do the flush that is described above (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280006) by myself, but I have a few questions.

1) I assume the strainer talked about in #10 is the filter?
2) It says, for example, "The recommended torque for the strainer bolts is 84 in.lbs". Are there special tools to measure this torque, what are they called and where can I find one to do this job (cost too)?
3) What transmission fluid do I use (besides just telling me to use Dexron III)?
4) What gasket and filter do I get?

All this help would be great to me thanks.

 

[JohnGD]

1. Yes. There are no felt filters in these transmissions. :thumbsdow

2. 1/4"-drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight (and a 10mm socket). Right now $19.99, it was IIRC around $15 a short while ago, in that case $50 can get you all three (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" for wheel lugs). Looks like the 1/2" is on sale for $12.99 with mailing list coupon.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-2696.html

3. Since you're doing drains/refills as an initial diagnosis step, I'd use plain dino Dexron III type fluid, like Walmart SuperTech ATF. Note that GM no longer licenses the D-III name, so the label will only say D-III compatible.

4. Local NAPA or other parts stores should have them (strainer+gasket) for about $20. The NAPA Wix one has a rubber gasket that helps to hold the bolts better. But others with cork-rubber gaskets will work too, just don't get the black recycled tire crumb gasket.

1) I assume the strainer talked about in #10 is the filter?
2) It says, for example, "The recommended torque for the strainer bolts is 84 in.lbs". Are there special tools to measure this torque, what are they called and where can I find one to do this job (cost too)?
3) What transmission fluid do I use (besides just telling me to use Dexron III)?
4) What gasket and filter do I get?

All this help would be great to me thanks.

 

[CarryMeBF]

Going back to the DIY instructions here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ion-fluid-strainer-replacement-procedure.html

I have a different transmission. So I assume the capacity is going to be different. If he is using 10 liters to flush his transmission what would I be using? in a V6 A541E Transmission?

 

[fenixus]

totally normal with V6 (A541E on my car does the same thing) when car is dead cold.
it will not allow me to shift to 3rd gear until I hit around 2.9k RPM (or 35mph) when car is cold. when it's warmed up a little more (coolant temp pointer 1/4'' above dead cold) it starts to shift normally.

The "problem" is actually by design, and the reason for this behavior is the ECU programming holding the car in lower gear (and higher RPM) to make it warm up faster.

I have an automatic 2001 Camry V6. I recently had my transmission fluid changed (01/11). Especially now that it is cold, it seems the first time (first use of the day) that my car shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear it requires me to get the car up to about 2800-2900 RPMs instead of what is usual around 2000 RPM. I can get it up to 2700 and it won't go, let off the accelerator and it will just run back down in 2nd gear.

After it shifts into the 3rd for the first time (during that drive when the car was started cold), then it doesn't do it again.

Any thoughts?

 

[CarryMeBF]

totally normal with V6 (A541E on my car does the same thing) when car is dead cold.
it will not allow me to shift to 3rd gear until I hit around 2.9k RPM (or 35mph) when car is cold. when it's warmed up a little more (coolant temp pointer 1/4'' above dead cold) it starts to shift normally.

The "problem" is actually by design, and the reason for this behavior is the ECU programming holding the car in lower gear (and higher RPM) to make it warm up faster.

This has never been a problem in the past though. What is the 'solution' to the 'problem'?