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Discussion Starter #1
Original owner of a 1995 V6 Camry. Check Engine light just came on the other week with an EFI error according to the ODB. Was going to check the fuse when I get time.
Weird issue is that I drove after this occurred a few times and occasionally while turning left the car won't turn left. If I turn the steering wheel right and back to left immediately after, the car turns left without issue. There has been no problem turning right at all. I have only driven the car short distances a few times since the EFI error came on though.

Any ideas what would cause the car to not turn left until the wheel turns right? Power steering issue or could the EFI error be causing a problem with the ECM and this is the cause?

Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Notice the question mark indicating my uncertainty about the suggestion. If the car is good otherwise might not be time to retire it until you find out what it will take to fix. I have a spare steering rack and column for mine. it has no power steering so the is no pump or lines or fluid.

Jack it up and run the steering wheel from lock to lock in both directions without the engine running. If can still feel the bind, then disconnect the linkage and see if you can find the bind in the universal joint. Might be able to get some lube in it and free it up.

Keep us informed and don't give up so easily, if it deserves attention. If it is on it's last leg might be time to let her go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Notice the question mark indicating my uncertainty about the suggestion. If the car is good otherwise might not be time to retire it until you find out what it will take to fix. I have a spare steering rack and column for mine. it has no power steering so the is no pump or lines or fluid.

Jack it up and run the steering wheel from lock to lock in both directions without the engine running. If can still feel the bind, then disconnect the linkage and see if you can find the bind in the universal joint. Might be able to get some lube in it and free it up.

Keep us informed and don't give up so easily, if it deserves attention. If it is on it's last leg might be time to let her go.
Thank you. I might do this but I was not just giving up. Yeah, there are quite a few other things that need to be repaired on it. Just found out the front mount and torque rod are completely blown, leaking fluids in a few places. When I got the EFI error on the ODB, that was the one that pushed me to retiring this baby. Then when the steering had issues. Well, when the value of the parts to repair are more than the car is worth. 95 camry is only worth about $500-$800.
 

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How many miles on it? Those cars will go forever will a bit of TLC. Most of us here would love a car like that that needs a couple hundred dollars worth of parts.
 

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How many miles on it? Those cars will go forever will a bit of TLC. Most of us here would love a car like that that needs a couple hundred dollars worth of parts.
Oh I get it and I wish that was the case. I am the original owner and it has 250k on it.The car need some work. Has at least $350 of needed parts not including what is causing the EFI error and now the steering issue. KBB w/out the issues is only about $500.
 

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The U joint can collect dirt.
Try spraying it clean with a hose, and oil it after. I have done that to mine a couple of times over the years.
 

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From my perspective, the present value of the car plus the cost of the repair at hand would have to purchase a replacement better car in order to justify retiring the present car on the basis of dollars. If those total $1000 for instance, can you buy a better car for $1000?
On local Craigslist, the Gen 4 Camry with about 200K miles is being offered for $2700-$3300 range.
If you prefer a different car--more modern, more power, etc, then the dynamic changes completely. Should you get a Chrysler brand car, the future repair costs will likely skyrocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The U joint can collect dirt.
Try spraying it clean with a hose, and oil it after. I have done that to mine a couple of times over the years.
Thank you. I will do some reading on this and give it a try. I am just learning how to work on cars. Brakes/routers are about the hardest thing I have accomplished so far.
 

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From my perspective, the present value of the car plus the cost of the repair at hand would have to purchase a replacement better car in order to justify retiring the present car on the basis of dollars. If those total $1000 for instance, can you buy a better car for $1000?
On local Craigslist, the Gen 4 Camry with about 200K miles is being offered for $2700-$3300 range.
If you prefer a different car--more modern, more power, etc, then the dynamic changes completely. Should you get a Chrysler brand car, the future repair costs will likely skyrocket.
You are correct. The problem is my knowledge and experience is very limited. I am eager to do if I can find imformation on how to,but if I can't, labor can be expensive.
 

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After some research I will take the advice and try removing, cleaning and inspecting the lower intermediate steering shaft to see if this is the issue and whether it needs replacing. Are the any torque specs needed for the bolts? Actually, is there a complete torque spec manual for a '95 v6 camry?
 

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Mark the parts locations in relation to each other so you can reassemble them in exactly the same position and your wheel will remain straight (assuming it is now).
 

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From my perspective, the present value of the car plus the cost of the repair at hand would have to purchase a replacement better car in order to justify retiring the present car on the basis of dollars. If those total $1000 for instance, can you buy a better car for $1000?
On local Craigslist, the Gen 4 Camry with about 200K miles is being offered for $2700-$3300 range.
If you prefer a different car--more modern, more power, etc, then the dynamic changes completely. Should you get a Chrysler brand car, the future repair costs will likely skyrocket.
Well, in my very recent experience and after my 1992 Camry XLE (Japan made) clocked over 532,651+ original miles I had to pull down my pants and reach over for my wallet and got a PRO SHOP to finally replace my RACK. This same PRO SHOP had replaced my Power Steering Pump twice under warranty and the mechanic finally came over to me and said that the RACK has been leaking at the Pinion Gear and fluid coming from the protective boot (he showed me and cleaned the area and ran the car while up on the lift). Sure enough it was still working and intermittently binding before (due to air pockets in the Rack). Once the Air bubbles left the system via the Reservoir all was okay but, nothing you can do about leaking and with this mileage it was time to replace the RACK. I am assuming it was AIR in the RACK but, I do know that my PRO SHOP mechanic performed the correct procedure about taking out the Air out of the system so, in hind sight it was my original RACK & PINION that just could not do the job anymore (RE: Binding). After the RACk was replaced, my 1992 Camry steers like new and has lots of fine accuracy with the steering and especially in tight turns.

I had the same dilemma about heading to GREENER PASTURES with another vehicle. A former co-worker offered me (him not knowing the troubles of my Camry) with a 2000 Nissan Maxima in very beautiful conditions for a Cool $1,000 but, it had 214,000 miles and I looked up the Forums and to my surprise these cars come with lots of issues, more than I would like to engage. Since my Camry has had the following equipment recently replaced: (Within one year or more recently):

1. New Quick Struts all around.
2. Front Wheel Drive Axles and Transmission Axle Inlet Seals.
3. New Rear Suspension (Lateral Control Arms and Links and Lateral Trailing Arms with Bushings)
4. New AC Compressor, Condenser and Evap.
5. New Brakes and four (4) new tires.
6. New Power Steering Pump, Reservoir and inlet hose.

Therefore, taking in account of analysis in looking UP the market value of the Camry is not necessarily the right thing to do, especially in my case. Certainly, no one will give me perhaps nothing more than $700 - $1,000 cash due to the mileage and presently needing a paint job (Medium Red Pearl - 3J9) as this color really gets a beating in the Central Florida sun.

I am very pleased that I have replaced my Power Steering Rack and for those interested, you can see what I did over at this thread discussion:

EDIT: The bit about owning a Chrysler brand and assuming repair costs of ownership will sky-rocket then, you certainly don't know what you are talking about. My daughter's 2008 DODGE AVENGER SE with the 2.4 Liter Gasoline Engine has given the family just amazing service and purchased it back in 2010 from Enterprise Rent-A-CAR with 21,613 miles on the Odometer and today it has turned 89,953 miles. It has been the best vehicle that the family has ever owned and it still smells new inside and looks just super! I laugh at people making BROAD BRUSH Statements without really knowing what they are talking about!
 

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