blue smoke is oil.. and the most common causes are leaking down from the valve seats or the rings. how's compression? I'm bummed for you
problems...22re....angry
i thought i just had a bad starter. i was getting the single click when you turn the key. new starter put on, still no fire..just a single click. battery has 12.XXX volts. zero resistance in the wire going to the starter. then we did a rolling start to let it run for a few cuz for some reason we thought that might cure it. once i let that clutch out a HUGE poof of smoke, sweet, burning oil. it died down till it was barely visible but never went away. i have no idea whats wrong with this thing but im very pissed at it and need help....please
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
its the starter solenoid. change out your starter.
he said he's got a new one on there? and what about the constant smoke?
not sure how the compression is, but there is no loss of power and it drives fine after the rolling start. it was a bit rough about 2 or 3 seconds right after it fired up. sounds like two different problems...or one massive one :/
still rough? still emitting smoke? is it black and sooty or blueish?
did it make any odd noises or anything when you push started it?
i read that too. i used to work at NAPA and we got new starters back all the time. the true test is to get under the truck and unplug the wire from the solenoid and run a wire from the + terminal and touch it to the solenoid terminal. just because you have 12V at it does not mean that there are enough amps to make it engage. i had a similar problem. thought it was the starter relay. $170 later and no dice. the problem was with my ignition switch and now i have a $5 starter button on the lower dash. no more problems.he said he's got a new one on there? and what about the constant smoke?
true that.. there is the occasinal starter I have to send back to NAPA.. is your truck starting under it's own power now, jake?
the return rate was +/- 2.25% on the NAPA brand starters and +/- .5% on the borg warner units if i remember correctly.
is there any way you can mock up a little flow chart of how you rigged up the ignition switch?i read that too. i used to work at NAPA and we got new starters back all the time. the true test is to get under the truck and unplug the wire from the solenoid and run a wire from the + terminal and touch it to the solenoid terminal. just because you have 12V at it does not mean that there are enough amps to make it engage. i had a similar problem. thought it was the starter relay. $170 later and no dice. the problem was with my ignition switch and now i have a $5 starter button on the lower dash. no more problems.
and no, still no fire. just clicking, only way to turn it on is a rolling start. still getting a small amount of blue smoke. she def has enough juice but just wont engage. im in class right this second, but my roommates just had both starters tested and turns out i didnt even need a new one...im so lost. its never an easy fix is it? shit....im stumped. shoulda gone to school to do this, im always finding myself with broken cars that need to be fixed
well, its really pretty easy. just take a 10 foot heavy duty extension cord and run it from the cab through the firewall grommet near the brake booster and up against the firewall over to the battery. near where the starter is, split the cord down the middle and cut the wire going to the starter solenoid off where it exits the harness. have somebody who knows how solder join the wires together and be sure to heat shrink the whole soldered joint. take the other wire and run it to the + battery terminal. now you should have a wire leading to the starter solenoid terminal and one wire to the positive battery terminal. now start laying the wire up and tying it off with cable ties so that it does not rattle around and get caught up on anything. do not have any spots where the wire is pulled tight or rubbing against anything. do this all the way up to where the wire goes through the firewall. be sure that the starter button you get has screw terminals on the back to attach the wires to. strip a little insulation off and attach it to the terminals. it does not matter which terminals the wires go to. get a 3/8 inch drill bit and down where the e-brake handle comes out there should be a nice flat spot to drill the hole to mount the button to. now when you push the button, electricity goes directly to the starter and fires it up. the ignition key will still have to be int he "run" position for the truck to start.
so basically just a "push start" ignition?
i dont think that's gonna fix the problem, i have a feeling its not electrical, but mechanical
i dont think that's gonna fix the problem, i have a feeling its not electrical, but mechanical
Did you actually have the battery tested?
tony
tony
i see this as two separate issues. there are several things that can go wrong and cause the oil burning. since you are able to push start it, its not locked up or has a bent valve keeping it from turning over. you replaced a starter you thought was bad. the new starter does the same thing. it just clicks. that sounds electrical to me. not mechanical.
also, try replacing the battery. it might have a bad plate or cell. you will still get 12v, you just wont get any amps.
also, try replacing the battery. it might have a bad plate or cell. you will still get 12v, you just wont get any amps.
Maybe the battery ground?
You could try jumping it. If it jumps then the batt. is probably shot. If it doesn't then something else. Sorry
BTW - Is this the runner or your truck?
You could try jumping it. If it jumps then the batt. is probably shot. If it doesn't then something else. Sorry
BTW - Is this the runner or your truck?
no, i had to leave so my roommates kept working, they took the starters to an auto parts store and got em both tested and they were fine.Did you actually have the battery tested?
tony
the battery is fine, its registering over 12 amps or volts, i always get those two terms confused. we did try jumping it just because we could..still 'click'
even if hooked up to another car?also, try replacing the battery. it might have a bad plate or cell. you will still get 12v, you just wont get any amps.
like people said earlier, you can only use voltage to see if the truck is charging. Amperage(amps) is what really is important. Sounds like the problem I had the other day. Ended up being bad terminals on the battery. Went down and bought two for 1.99 each and it fixed the problem.
By testing the starter and cable, there's really only a couple things that could be wrong; the battery or the connection.
By testing the starter and cable, there's really only a couple things that could be wrong; the battery or the connection.
hrm...i guess it's worth a shot.like people said earlier, you can only use voltage to see if the truck is charging. Amperage(amps) is what really is important. Sounds like the problem I had the other day. Ended up being bad terminals on the battery. Went down and bought two for 1.99 each and it fixed the problem.
By testing the starter and cable, there's really only a couple things that could be wrong; the battery or the connection.
What is the voltage while you are trying to crank it? it should be above 10V If not check the battery, and for something that would cause excessive current draw such as something that would create exceesive drag on the engine such as a Hydro-lock condition.
If the "cranking" voltage is above 10V
Measure the voltage drop across the postive battery cable to the starter lug. across the negative battery cable to the block. from the positve battery terminal to the starter You'll probably find something wrong here
If you need more info on the testing, PM me.
If the "cranking" voltage is above 10V
Measure the voltage drop across the postive battery cable to the starter lug. across the negative battery cable to the block. from the positve battery terminal to the starter You'll probably find something wrong here
If you need more info on the testing, PM me.
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Toyota Nation Forum
ToyotaNation Forum is a community dedicated to all Toyota models. Come discuss the Camry, Tacoma, Highlander, 4Runner, Rav4 and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top Contributors this Month
View All
sdspeed
424 Replies
1990Toyota
414 Replies
93celicaconv
190 Replies
