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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 89 toyota hilux and it will not start, it will only crank. It has spark and there is gas in the tank, it will run on ether if I shoot it directly into the throttlebody (but only as long as I shoot it in) but will not if I shoot it into the air cleaner. This only happens when it's cold and I've replaced every part under the hood except the VAM and the ECU under the dash, every relay and every mechanical part.

Please help me out here I've put over 4 grand into this truck and it ran before but a while ago it did the same thing, replaced a rusted and bad relay and it ran after that but it was doing this thing where at a certain operating tempurature the fuel suply was getting cut at idle and it would almost die then start running again then almost die again. this morning it was colder than it's been in along time now and it started to just crank like it did before. Now I'm thinking it's the VAM cause it's tempurature related so please guys/gals help me out here

:wtf: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :wtf:
 

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About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes to see if a fault is registered.

To pull the ECU codes:

All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner,the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-36.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-53.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-71.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-90.htm
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote12.htm
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote13.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Engine.html
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/toyotaobd.shtml#obtaincode
http://www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota
http://members.igateway.net/~pscott/enginecodes.html
http://www.autobook.co.kr/data_links/toyota_trouble_codes.htm
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/manuals/1KZ-TE/Page0096.htm
http://www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm
http://www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm

Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.

Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:[email protected]
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 247 000 KM
 

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Offical Truck Nut
1990 Toyota
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starting

before I done that I would check to see if the fuel pump was humming in the tank, you can do this with a friends help by turing on the key and and removing the fuel cap and placing your ear near the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay there is no codes and the fuel pump runs.

It still does it though. the only thing that is confusing me is when it is cold that I can go out with a hairdryer and blow it on the passenger side kick panel and if I do that it will start just fine. It only takes about 5 minutes of that blowing on it for it to start and run just like normal... now the onlythings under the dash right there controlling starting is the ECU (just replaced with a brand new one) and the Circuit opening relay (also just replaced a couple days ago)

Any ideas? I've checked and double checked everything under the hood and dash and I've practically replaced everything under the hood and dash also and I'm out of ideas.

Could I have a bad connection that when it is cold the metal is contracting and not making a good connection and when I heat it up that it does work after that? Or possibly a short in the wiring harness right there (though I don't see how that is possible seeing as how the harness it self never moves so there's not a chance of the wires breaking cause of excess movement.)

:confused:
 

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so you have spark, is there gas acutally getting into your engine? is there enough air getting in? you need all three things, air, fuel, and spark, to have your engine work. if one is missing it won't work
 

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Loose Nut
94 Toyota 2WD Pickup
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Toyotathing said:
It still does it though. the only thing that is confusing me is when it is cold that I can go out with a hairdryer and blow it on the passenger side kick panel and if I do that it will start just fine. It only takes about 5 minutes of that blowing on it for it to start and run just like normal... now the onlythings under the dash right there controlling starting is the ECU (just replaced with a brand new one) and the Circuit opening relay (also just replaced a couple days ago)

Any ideas? I've checked and double checked everything under the hood and dash and I've practically replaced everything under the hood and dash also and I'm out of ideas.

Could I have a bad connection that when it is cold the metal is contracting and not making a good connection and when I heat it up that it does work after that? Or possibly a short in the wiring harness right there (though I don't see how that is possible seeing as how the harness it self never moves so there's not a chance of the wires breaking cause of excess movement.)

:confused:
Check the wiring and the connectors, but remember there's a difference between "brand new" and "known good part." More likely, you pinched or broke a wire at/near the connector when you unplugged the old ECU and Circuit Opening Relay, and plugged in the new, but don't rule out that the ECU or Circuit Opening Relay probably sat around in Toyota's wharehouse or the dealer's shelf for the last 10+ years, too. I don't know how it was packaged and stored, but I'd have more certainty swapping known good unit from another truck if it were possible. Go through whatever checkout procedures you can from the FSM.

How'd you even think to use a hair dryer there?

Up until that clue, I was thinking something with the fuel injectors. Check grounds. Especially down around that area you're blowing hot air at. Better yet, open up all the ground connections, clean up, reassemble with silicone dielectric grease, and recheck with a continuity tester (or ohmeter).

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Arved said:
Check the wiring and the connectors, but remember there's a difference between "brand new" and "known good part." More likely, you pinched or broke a wire at/near the connector when you unplugged the old ECU and Circuit Opening Relay, and plugged in the new, but don't rule out that the ECU or Circuit Opening Relay probably sat around in Toyota's wharehouse or the dealer's shelf for the last 10+ years, too. I don't know how it was packaged and stored, but I'd have more certainty swapping known good unit from another truck if it were possible. Go through whatever checkout procedures you can from the FSM.

How'd you even think to use a hair dryer there?

Up until that clue, I was thinking something with the fuel injectors. Check grounds. Especially down around that area you're blowing hot air at. Better yet, open up all the ground connections, clean up, reassemble with silicone dielectric grease, and recheck with a continuity tester (or ohmeter).

Good luck!
I checked the connectors this morning and the connector that connects to the circuit opening relay has a short in it so I have to start tracing wires till I find which of the 5 are bad.

I just narrowed the problems down to the ECU and I started to think that maybe something in the ECU was shrinking with the cold and when it was warming up that it would reconnect so I just said hey what the hell and used a hair dryer on it.

everything has dielectric grease on it (made sure when I redid the engine) and the grounds were all cleaned up and checked. Going to start testing continuity with an ohm meter later this week on the wires to find which one(s) are having the short/connection problem.
 
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